So let me get this straight...

jake_tim · Post by **jake_tim** » Fri Oct 10, 2008 11:10 am

Since I lowered my car, my camber is off.

You cant adjust the camber on stock neon struts.

I need camber bolts to remedy this problem.

Mopar crash bolts are the best ones to use.

I put one bolt in each strut unless its bad enough that it needs two in each.

The economy sucks right now.

Are all these correct?

bstc00 · Post by **bstc00** » Fri Oct 10, 2008 11:15 am

ZeroChad · Post by **ZeroChad** » Fri Oct 10, 2008 11:56 am

I have a brand new pair for the rears. They're Eibachs that I bought from MPx, and didn't end up needing with my coilovers.

I'll take $15 shipped for em if you're interested.

jake_tim · Post by **jake_tim** » Fri Oct 10, 2008 12:32 pm

I'll let you know. I need to see how far off my camber is off first.

Do the rears work for the front also?

hansken_yo · Post by **hansken_yo** » Fri Oct 10, 2008 1:38 pm

The Eibach ones are good as well. Besides ZeroChad's set you can buy them from Modern for I think $30/a set (you'll need front and back).

I would not recommend using two bolts per strut (top and bottom) since they are not as strong as the solid bolts used on the stock setup.

jake_tim · Post by **jake_tim** » Fri Oct 10, 2008 3:19 pm

Thanks yo. The only reason I was considering that is IIRC Crystal (lilsparkplug) uses two camber bolts on each strut in her car.

Danteneon · Post by **Danteneon** » Fri Oct 10, 2008 3:21 pm

Using two will give you crazy camber adjustment, but like Yo said they are weaker than stock. One bolt per strut will give you all the adjustment you should need.

hansken_yo · Post by **hansken_yo** » Fri Oct 10, 2008 8:04 pm

I opted to shave down my knuckle over using two camber bolts.... not that I would recommend that to anyone that doesn't know what they are doing.

Swordfish2Cowboy · Post by **Swordfish2Cowboy** » Fri Oct 10, 2008 8:34 pm

jake_tim wrote:The economy sucks right now.

\
Lies! 2+2=5!

LilSparkPlug · Post by **LilSparkPlug** » Fri Oct 10, 2008 9:02 pm

jake_tim wrote:Thanks yo. The only reason I was considering that is IIRC Crystal (lilsparkplug) uses two camber bolts on each strut in her car.

Yes I have two in each strut. The reason for this is sometimes you cannot get back to the best adjustment for the car without using two of them. One isn't always enough. Depends on how severe the issue is. I used two because I figured why the hell not? They are cheap enough, and if the one doesn't do the trick, the second one is there to aid in the process.

hansken_yo · Post by **hansken_yo** » Sat Oct 11, 2008 12:04 am

LilSparkPlug wrote:
jake_tim wrote:Thanks yo. The only reason I was considering that is IIRC Crystal (lilsparkplug) uses two camber bolts on each strut in her car.
Yes I have two in each strut. The reason for this is sometimes you cannot get back to the best adjustment for the car without using two of them. One isn't always enough. Depends on how severe the issue is. I used two because I figured why the hell not? They are cheap enough, and if the one doesn't do the trick, the second one is there to aid in the process.

My problem was quite severe, which is another reason why I didn't go that route... I had roughly 5degrees of movement to achieve and you can only get .75 (1.5 full range -- .75 negative .75 positive) on camber bolts.

ewetho · Post by **ewetho** » Sat Oct 11, 2008 2:22 pm

jake_tim

How much did you drop the car. I have mine down 1.5-1.6" and even without the camber bolts now I have ZERO abnormal tire wear. Long life and great handling. If you are under 1.5 degrees I would skip it. You could always slot the upper hole to allow it to pivot in or out to your desired camber though.

Oh yeah my trip to work is 46 Miles each way and at up 75 MPH for 15 miles at one stretch.

bone-yard-racing · Post by **bone-yard-racing** » Sat Oct 11, 2008 9:20 pm

First off struts dont gain camber when lowered all that much so the little excess negative camber you now have isnt a problem.
Secondly the "book" non acr allignment settings are a joke, less than 1/2 of a degree of negative camber is not eneough to get a strut car(espicaly a FWD) to turn. The car should be pretty close to acr spec just being lowered. You shouldnt have a tire wear issue just from the springs and anything less than -2.5 shouldnt make it wonder too much on the highway.

01NeonSnooZer · Post by **01NeonSnooZer** » Thu Oct 23, 2008 5:21 pm

Okay, first thing, DO NOT USE the cheap ass little cheese-dick aftermarket camber bolts. You think you're saving money until one breaks and you need a new strut, hub and bearing assembly and knuckle. Now i don't know where you live but here, there are potholes that'll bend your rims which is also enough to break those aftermarket camber bolts. the factory camber bolts are the same diameter as the original bols because they put the eccentric on the head of the bolt instead of the shank. the factory camber kits come with two bolts and a tether. You install the bolt with the eccentric on the bottom and a straight bolt (you can leave the factory on in the strut if it's still okay) on the top. If this doesn't give you enough adjustment, then you can put another eccentric bolt in the top. Put the tether on the side with the self locking nuts and then adjust it with the fron jacked up buy the body, not the control arm.

Now, as long as there's not more that 0.3 (3 tenths) of a degree difference between each side, it SHOULDN'T pull or drift. If you have 2 or 3 tenths of a degree negative camber, you can loosen EITHER the top or bottom bolt, have someone push on the strut from underneath the car and then tighten the bolts. You might get those few tenths that way without having to get camber kits.

Slotting the strut is a Viable option as long as you know what you are doing but if you get too close to the outer edge of the strut, it COULD crack but i haven't seen one like that yet.

I'm pretty sure that anything more than 1.2 degrees of negative camber will wear the inner edges of the tires a bit faster than normal but it doesn't start getting severe until you get to 2.0 degrees negative camber.

i hope this helps. If need be, I can go on dealer connect and pull the factory aligntment specs for you and post them tomorrow.

hansken_yo · Post by **hansken_yo** » Thu Oct 23, 2008 5:26 pm

I ran -1 degree for the life of my tires (happened to be 1 year 27k miles - Toyo Proxy 4) and the wear associated to my camber did not become prevalent till the tires them selves were pretty much shot.

01NeonSnooZer · Post by **01NeonSnooZer** » Thu Oct 23, 2008 5:29 pm

yea, see. It doesn't start getting severe until you get to -1.8 or more and it's more readily noticable at -1.2 to -1.5.

jake_tim · Post by **jake_tim** » Thu Oct 23, 2008 6:10 pm

I forgot all about this thread.

My camber is -1.6 on each side; This isn't too severe. The tires I run are usually good for ~25,000 miles and I don't think that the camber will start having detrimental effects until the tires are shot anyway, like Hansken_yo said.

I don't drive the car that much anymore anyway, but I still might buy the bolts.

c987long · Post by **c987long** » Tue Mar 24, 2009 3:08 pm

will the eibach bolts do -1.2 to-1.5 camber?

hybrid-Srt2001 · Post by **hybrid-Srt2001** » Wed Mar 25, 2009 12:08 am

eibachs are garbage. I run -2+ camber and have no wear issues, just make sure your toe is set and rotate the tires regularly.

hansken_yo · Post by **hansken_yo** » Wed Mar 25, 2009 9:10 am

jake_tim wrote:I forgot all about this thread.

My camber is -1.6 on each side; This isn't too severe. The tires I run are usually good for ~25,000 miles and I don't think that the camber will start having detrimental effects until the tires are shot anyway, like Hansken_yo said.

I don't drive the car that much anymore anyway, but I still might buy the bolts.

-1.6* isn't bad if it is even on both sides. I've running -1.75* in the front and -1.5* in the rear.

OB · Post by OB » Wed Mar 25, 2009 9:35 am

As long as the camber is even from side to side, I'd recommend leaving it alone. By getting back to stock settings you will actually hurt the cornering ability of the car. Be sure to get toe set to zero, because it affects tire wear and straight line driveability a lot more. Also, note that camber bolts tend to slip, and may end up causing you to get repeat alignments. Slotting the strut clevis holes or the knuckle holes allows not only for more adjustment, but it allows use of the stock bolts for max torque and reliability.

hansken_yo · Post by **hansken_yo** » Wed Mar 25, 2009 9:51 am

OB wrote:As long as the camber is even from side to side, I'd recommend leaving it alone. By getting back to stock settings you will actually hurt the cornering ability of the car. Be sure to get toe set to zero, because it affects tire wear and straight line driveability a lot more. Also, note that camber bolts tend to slip, and may end up causing you to get repeat alignments. Slotting the strut clevis holes or the knuckle holes allows not only for more adjustment, but it allows use of the stock bolts for max torque and reliability.

Well said.

hybrid-Srt2001 · Post by **hybrid-Srt2001** » Wed Mar 25, 2009 2:54 pm

Derek knows his stuff

2GN.ORG

So let me get this straight...

So let me get this straight...

Re: So let me get this straight...

Re: So let me get this straight...