What cam for a lightly modded engine?

This is the place to ask questions about your engine components like cams, valves, pistons… just anything that is generally "engine" specific. This also includes questions about exhaust systems such as exhaust manifolds, piping size, mufflers, ect...
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nate-00neon
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Post by nate-00neon » Sat Oct 18, 2008 5:06 pm

whats the diff between a comp 400 cam and the crane 10 or 12 or 14 cams? which one would you recomend for a lightly modded car?

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Post by racer12306 » Sat Oct 18, 2008 5:12 pm

Split the thread from the HT section since this is a question about cams and not the install itself.
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nate-00neon
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Post by nate-00neon » Sat Oct 18, 2008 5:41 pm

oh thanks
and sorry about that :(
i just thought i could ask cuz they were talking about in there

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BlackRoseRacing
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Post by BlackRoseRacing » Sat Oct 18, 2008 6:10 pm

What is your goal?
Daily driving?
0-60 performance?
The stock Magnum head and cam or the Crane 12? is the best turn key and go setup.The Crane 14 starts a reliability issue were you will need some type of fuel management to get it to idle correctly. Th magnum head flows better than the non-magnum head, bolt on and go. But the big question is what are you trying to accomplish?

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Post by nate-00neon » Sat Oct 18, 2008 7:52 pm

something that gives me a lil bit more go/acceleration i was thinking about a mag head. i still want to keep somewhat of good gas milage but i can loose a little.

this will not be a huge go crazy project just some minor things to make my DD fun :)
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Donkeypuncher
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Post by Donkeypuncher » Sat Oct 18, 2008 8:07 pm

I guess it really depends on what you consider a crazy project. A complete magnum swap would be nice. Add some weight reduction, lightweight wheels, a nice suspension setup, and you should be happy.

nate-00neon
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Post by nate-00neon » Sat Oct 18, 2008 8:21 pm

i would think a mag head would be good but i think usually those are like 400

would i feel a difference with that installed?

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Post by torrent09 » Sat Oct 18, 2008 11:38 pm

oh yes you would why do you think the magnum makes 150 hp and the reg. neon makes like 130

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Post by occasional demons » Mon Oct 20, 2008 12:19 am

torrent09 wrote:oh yes you would why do you think the magnum makes 150 hp and the reg. neon makes like 130
There is also a PCM, IM, header, cam and .39:1 gear ratio difference to help those 18 extra horses. But yes you will see a gain, just maybe not the same as a full R/T set up. Even if you make 150 hp, if you don't have the 3.94 mtx you will still be slower. And w/o the pcm you won't have the top speed either, even if you have the power to push the 3.55 mtx or an ATX, the se/sxt pcm will limit you to 118mph.
But I don't think that is in the OP's goals.
You just have to decide if spending $500+ (Cam and head) is worth 10 - 15 hp.
You can find them used for less, but you may wait a while. Not so much for a cam, but finding a reasonably priced Mag. head might be a bit of a wait. Mancini racing sells the bare casting for what is prolly the best all around option. Your valves/hardware will swap right in.
http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/ma20cyhe.html

Edit: as far as fuel mileage I don't think the Mag head alone would have much effect if the driving style didn't change for the more agressive. The intake side is the same, so with the standard IM/TB you really would not have any more air flow comming in just better flow going out. A cam, Mag IM, and 60 mm TB will take full advantage of the better exhaust ports and bite into fuel economy. I would recommend at the least an R/T header with the head, to keep the exhaust ports from being partially blocked by the stock mani. You may end up with a power loss otherwise.
Last edited by occasional demons on Mon Oct 20, 2008 12:29 am, edited 1 time in total.
Bill
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Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
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Swordfish2Cowboy
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Post by Swordfish2Cowboy » Mon Oct 20, 2008 12:27 am

My R/T only goes to 132. :( Hooray for GPS tracking!
There's something seriously wrong with my engine.

In other news, I wouldn't get the 400 unless you're car was a bit more than slightly modded. But that depends on what you do to it. You'll probably need to upgrade lots more stuff to make use of and run the 400 without breaking something, so I'd recommend something a little less aggressive.
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occasional demons
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Post by occasional demons » Mon Oct 20, 2008 12:34 am

I think the R/T pcm is speed limited to 128 ish, so 132 may just be the limiter. The PCM doesn't have GPS tracking for reference, so I'm sure it could be off by a few, give or take.
Bill
Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.

2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap

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Swordfish2Cowboy
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Post by Swordfish2Cowboy » Mon Oct 20, 2008 12:40 am

occasional demons wrote:I think the R/T pcm is speed limited to 128 ish, so 132 may just be the limiter. The PCM doesn't have GPS tracking for reference, so I'm sure it could be off by a few, give or take.
132 is what I got up to on flat ground. The GPS machine doohickey my cousin has tracks speed, and the current top speed is 132MPH. The speedo also confirmed this. :tardbang:
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nate-00neon
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Post by nate-00neon » Mon Oct 20, 2008 11:40 am

is it bad to use a used cam with my rollers? will it wear funny...is there anything i should check on the cam?
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Post by occasional demons » Mon Oct 20, 2008 12:16 pm

The roller followers aren't like the non roller push rod type that spin in the bore, so you will be fine. There is no slant on the cam to spin the followers. Even the old slipper type they used in the eighties 2.2/2.5 could swap cams w/out changing the followers.

Edit: For the cam just measure the lobes/jounals to see if they are in spec. Generally on these engines if there was a good oil supply to the top end, they will out last the engine. And if the pump failed, the engine would prolly stop turning before lobe damage occured, but the journals may be scored. As long as there are no bends, gouges, or heavy rust it should be good. You may want to slide it into the head to see if it turns freely (rockers removed of course). If it binds then it may be bent.
Bill
Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.

2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap

nate-00neon
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Post by nate-00neon » Mon Oct 20, 2008 8:42 pm

sweet thanks for the help...i put the cam in today it it seems to spin just fine...the car should be running tomorrow so we will see what happens :)
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nate-00neon
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Post by nate-00neon » Sun Nov 02, 2008 7:06 pm

if i bought a new cam say from modernperformance i would be toally fine with my rockers correct im thinkin the crane 10. what do you guys think about that one? i only have an intake and i think im goin to get a cat back. would the crane 12 be better what do yall think?
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torrent09
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Post by torrent09 » Sun Nov 02, 2008 9:05 pm

i would get the 12 its what im looking into for my car i think it produces more power and its the same price.. dont quote me on that though

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Post by c987long » Sun Nov 02, 2008 10:09 pm

i got my crane 14 for 150 with the wheel, but i am not going for fuel management, rumors say that i can adjust a magical screw on the tb if i remember to adjust the idel for the cam, but i dont remember or not... comments... anyone know if this is true or not
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Post by occasional demons » Sun Nov 02, 2008 11:32 pm

According to Cranes specs for the 14, there is 38º of valve overlap @.006" of lift. The stock cam has no overlap at all. Thats a pretty good window for scavenging. Scavenging means unburned fuel is getting sucked through to the o2 sensor, screwing with the A/F ratio at idle, more so than the higer rpm's due to the extra amount of time at idle/low rpm. So i doubt the idle screw will help a lot. Unless you want a 2000 rpm idle.

http://www.cranecams.com/?show=browsePa ... vl=2&prt=5
Bill
Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.

2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap

nate-00neon
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Post by nate-00neon » Mon Nov 03, 2008 8:12 am

so you would say 12 then? and i can us my stock rockers and springs?
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occasional demons
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Post by occasional demons » Mon Nov 03, 2008 10:20 am

I would say 12 or an '01 Magnum cam. There is one (Mag) for sale in the for sale section for $100 ish that would save $100 over a new crane and the difference prolly isn't worth the extra $100-150.
Bill
Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.

2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap

c987long
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Post by c987long » Mon Nov 03, 2008 12:26 pm

occasional demons wrote:According to Cranes specs for the 14, there is 38º of valve overlap @.006" of lift. The stock cam has no overlap at all. Thats a pretty good window for scavenging. Scavenging means unburned fuel is getting sucked through to the o2 sensor, screwing with the A/F ratio at idle, more so than the higer rpm's due to the extra amount of time at idle/low rpm. So i doubt the idle screw will help a lot. Unless you want a 2000 rpm idle.

http://www.cranecams.com/?show=browsePa ... vl=2&prt=5
so basically it is just messing with the idle, driving conditions will not be affected
2001 neon r/t sold
98 sport turbo- built motor 2.0 ngc DOHC, powered by srt ecu and hp tuners
esteinmaier wrote: We all know that an SRT4 wing is the Chuck Norris of car parts.
occasional demons wrote: Dude, your neon is all the sex you'll ever need!
:lol:

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