FINNALLY!!

Kelevra · Post by **Kelevra** » Sun Dec 28, 2008 1:08 pm

I've got my car back!! YAY.. but new motors SUCK

I can't go over 3000 RPM or over 65 mph for the break in period that I have no clue how long that is! (was told 10k miles from some obscure person) and now I'm getting a lurch/slippage from 2nd-3rd gear and only on the up shift and only between those gears. I'm hopping it's the ECUs 'fuzzy' logic trying to relearn the shift points since it's been disconnected from the battery for a good 5 days when it was in the shop.

I thought I would share this info with you and maybe get some answers

Post by **racer12306** » Sun Dec 28, 2008 1:09 pm

who told you that is how to break in an engine?

contagious18 · Post by **contagious18** » Sun Dec 28, 2008 1:25 pm

an idiot probably

Kelevra · Post by **Kelevra** » Sun Dec 28, 2008 3:59 pm

racer12306 wrote:who told you that is how to break in an engine?

It says it on my 'receipt paper' "Do not exceed 3000 RPM or 65mph for the duration of the break in period"

lilnicko11 · Post by **lilnicko11** » Sun Dec 28, 2008 6:33 pm

wtf........thats screwed up. never heard of that before

Post by **occasional demons** » Sun Dec 28, 2008 6:56 pm

1000 miles at the most for a "break in" but usually 500. What you should do is find some good long hills and accereate up them at moderate rpm's to give a load on the engine. This helps seat the rings faster. The sooner the better. If you had an MTX, a hill wouldn't be needed, just do some 3rd or 4th gear pulls from 25 to 65 mph, or 55 if that is the legal limit where you can safely do it. And if it doesn't say in the "papers" do not use synthetic oil until it is broke in. (but you prolly know that) I would think after 3000 miles it should be safe. I would change the oil at 1000 miles just to get any excess metals out. Hopefully the ATX returns to normal.

Adionik · Post by **Adionik** » Sun Dec 28, 2008 7:53 pm

10k miles HAHAHAH

Do NOT use synthetic oil till atleast 1k miles

Drive it like you stole it

LOTS of engine breaking

Done.

I would change the oil after about 10-15 miles, then again at 100, 500 and 1000

excon · Post by **excon** » Sun Dec 28, 2008 8:04 pm

i remember reading about proper engine break in requirements in my owner's manual. Go check it out. 10k miles?! it says for the first 500 miles to break it in with some moderate acceleration on the highway where you need to down shift, but not to down shift to a low gear like first or second as "it may be detrimental to the engine"

Post by **occasional demons** » Sun Dec 28, 2008 8:30 pm

Adionik wrote: I would change the oil after about 10-15 miles, then again at 100, 500 and 1000

Maybe on a back yard rebuild, but on a factory short block, not really needed; they are honed pretty well. Break in doesnt take nearly as long. It would/should be the same as a new car. They don't need warranty issues due to extended break in times. Engines tend to use more oil during break in, so keep an eye on your oil level. The main concern is the rings. The bearings will be seated long before the rings. Put a strong magnet on the oil filter to help collect ring/cyl wall shavings. Since the cannister is on the inet side of the filter, there is no need to worry if a glob of metal goo comes off, as the filter would prevent it from going into the engine. But if you duct tape the magnet on, that shouldn't be a concern.

Adionik · Post by **Adionik** » Sun Dec 28, 2008 9:53 pm

Have you ever changed the oil after that few miles on a brand new block? It's ridiculous. Put the oil pan in the sun and look at all the glitter floating around. If you're happy with that for a few hundred miles then that's fine...I personally don't trust my oil filter that much.

$20 oil change > Problems down the road

I changed the oil on a brand new R6 and saw this myself...

(had like 15 miles?)

supermike · Post by **supermike** » Sun Dec 28, 2008 10:07 pm

Sounds to me like you should definitely do an MTX swap, just in case your transmission is going bad. It's called preventative maintenance...

Post by **occasional demons** » Sun Dec 28, 2008 10:08 pm

Changed the oil on my 92 Duster after 1000 miles, and it was totally clean. Must be a Mitsubishi thing. Have rebuilt engines myself and not had any debris in the oil, believe me, I do check every oil change. No matter the mileage. If my oil looks like a metalflake paint job, I'd be worried.

Kelevra · Post by **Kelevra** » Sun Dec 28, 2008 11:27 pm

Ok. new symptom.. I have a rhythmic hum coming from the passenger side of the engine. it's not the s belt. it sounds like the water pump or something. is this hum normal when you replace the timing belt, water pump, and tensioner?

Post by **occasional demons** » Mon Dec 29, 2008 7:15 am

Mine has done that ever since I changed the belt also. Hasn't really caused any problems. IDK if is just the newer tensoiner or what exacly. Mine had the hydraulic one originally. It is the Litens tensioner now. But yours being an '03 prolly had the newer style already? As long as it isn't a high pitch noise (too tight) it should be ok. Or just verify with the dealer that did the work to be safe.

Post by **racer12306** » Mon Dec 29, 2008 8:09 am

Anything that needs to be done/diagnosed on this engine should be taken back to the dealer. Don't mess with it.

Post by **occasional demons** » Mon Dec 29, 2008 8:47 am

Excactly.
Call them and explain what it is doing. I f they don't think it is an issue, record the name, date and time you spoke with them. Even write down what the person told you. If you do have an issue related to the work done, then you have a log of what was communicated to you. While it is not absolute proof, it will carry some weight.

Kelevra · Post by **Kelevra** » Mon Dec 29, 2008 9:51 pm

Ok. sounds good. Made an appointment with the service mannager and the guy who did the work

01NeonSnooZer · Post by **01NeonSnooZer** » Sat Jan 03, 2009 12:10 am

Break in should consist of an oil change after the first 20 minutes of running time with some cheap bulk oil. In that time, there's a lot of metal shavings building up in the oil pan. After that, run 500-1000 miles and do another bulk oil change and then run it to 3k. At 3k, then you use your synthetic. DO NOT reuse the filters. Change them every time. It's not hard on a neon.

Put the engine uder varying loads to seat the rings. Just cuising down the highway is bad for it as it can wash down the cylinder walls (Which smoothes out the hone in the cylinders and leaves nothing for the rings to seal against, causing blow by). The break in time varies depending on what you read, who you talk to, the engine you've built (make/model, FI or N/A, nitrous, drag racing, drift/road course/time attack) but from what i can gather, the rings should be seated and the bearings and other moving parts completely broken in no later than 3k with careful attention paid to the oil changes and watching for oily coolant or blow by. keep an eye on it and listen to the guys here. They won't normally lead you astray.

If anyone would like to add or correct anything, feel free to do so.