another cam sensor question

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Ironman Alloyz
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another cam sensor question

Post by Ironman Alloyz » Fri Jan 02, 2009 5:10 pm

Hi, this is probably my first post on this site but i've been reading through this for years......sooo Ironman Alloyz signing in....

Last week i was able to drive my car (neon 02 r/t,,,minor mods) that following day my car would not start...it cranks but no turnover.

I scanned my car immediately and p0340 (i think it was) camshaft sensor malfunction circuit.....

so I went to advance bought a new one changed it and yet my car still doesnt turnover jus cranks...

i searched this topic on this site as well as others but no one seems to have my kinda siutation

is there anything im missing like a extra step when replacing it?

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Danteneon
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Post by Danteneon » Fri Jan 02, 2009 5:27 pm

Just a wild shot in the dark, but did you clear the code? Either with your scan tool or by disconnecting the battery for 15 mins or so.
If I could just figure out how to meld the Outback and the Neon into one car...

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Ironman Alloyz
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Post by Ironman Alloyz » Fri Jan 02, 2009 5:36 pm

yes i did i cleared the code with my scanner twice

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Danteneon
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Post by Danteneon » Fri Jan 02, 2009 5:51 pm

Hmmm. Well, your next steps would be to...

1) Make sure the CPS is the problem

2) Verify that the crappy aftermarket part isn't defective (Sorry, but I've seen more than a couple be bad right out of the box)

3) If the above check out, look at the wiring leading to the sensor for a fault there.
If I could just figure out how to meld the Outback and the Neon into one car...

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Ironman Alloyz
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Post by Ironman Alloyz » Fri Jan 02, 2009 6:03 pm

crap i hope its not the sensor how can i test to see if its not a faulty part?

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INVUJerry
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Post by INVUJerry » Fri Jan 02, 2009 6:19 pm

Unplug the sensor and crank it over. If it starts after 10 seconds or so, it is the sensor, if it dosen't fire at all it's somethign else.

Look into changing your crank position sensor.
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Post by sneakers O'toole » Fri Jan 02, 2009 7:30 pm

Danteneon wrote: 2) Verify that the crappy aftermarket part isn't defective (Sorry, but I've seen more than a couple be bad right out of the box)
x10. I went through 3 autozone sensors within a month and a half. the last one i got from them was USED!!! :tardbang: ...pulled one off a plymouth with 102,000 miles on it and it works fine. with any sensors I'd stay with OEM whenever possible

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Post by occasional demons » Fri Jan 02, 2009 9:26 pm

Also, not that I really want to mention this for your sake, but make sure the cam is turning. If the timing belt broke, the cam sensor will get no signal.
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Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
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Ironman Alloyz
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Post by Ironman Alloyz » Sat Jan 03, 2009 5:54 pm

okay i will try those two diagnoses thanks for the info keep it posted

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Post by Ironman Alloyz » Sun Jan 04, 2009 3:44 pm

okay after taking another look....i trried to start it with the sensor off/disconnected....watched the camshaft (actually the magnet cover, the one with the torx bolt in the middle) and when i cranked the car it turns slightly once.

i cant really see the timing belt to determine if its been broken or split....reading my haynes manual it could be only two things according to them and thats the timing belt or the crankshaft sensor.... that almost equals screwed i dont have the man power nor the time to do either

i can see the belt on the alternator but thats connected to my accessory belt i believe

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Post by occasional demons » Sun Jan 04, 2009 7:30 pm

If the cam isn't turning constantly while the starter is cranking, then the belt has failed. And unfortunately some of your valves are likely toast. I don't think there is a way to remove the outer timing belt cover with out removing the motor mount plate.
If you don't have the time/tools to do this yourself, depending on the condition of the rest of the car, you might have to decide if it is worth it to pay someone to repair it. You would prolly hit $1000 easy if the belt has indeed snapped, and depending on the damaged to the valves, possibly pistons, and head, a lot more. Damage to the head would be the least likely, but it can't be ruled out.
The waterpump is also a necessity to change when the belt is replaced. Recommended is the cam seal behind the cam gear.
Bill
Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.

2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap

Ironman Alloyz
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Post by Ironman Alloyz » Sun Jan 04, 2009 10:51 pm

well this didnt happen when i was driving (thank god).......the car was parked and sat for about two days before i went out and tried to go to work....

other than that the last time i drove it the car drove fine....no sluggishness...no stalling...or sputtering.

so i might be okay with the internals....however you're right i no place, time, or power to change my timing belt and even though my mechanical skills are fairly decent a timing belt is not in that roster....im crapped

so estimate on a timing belt change is really a 1000 i thought it was more like 500/600

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Post by occasional demons » Sun Jan 04, 2009 11:08 pm

Even by cranking it with the starter you can damage valves/pistons. If you have to replace a valve or two, thats where the extra cost is going to come into play. The head will need to be removed, a valve job done, may as well replace the guides since it's off. Those are about $8 each installed IIRC My exhaust guides were wasted at 112,000. IIRC just the valve guides/valve grind/ resurface was around $275.00 and that was just normal maintenance.
Replacing whole engine option:
Being that yours is a Magnum, finding a cheap used engine would be a rare stroke of luck. Granted you could find a non-magnum engine, but you will be losing 18 hp. Keep in mind anything '03 -up will not work bottom end wise. Unless you went SRT swap, then you would have to pay someone on here that's done it, so it's done right. Most commercial shops would rape you, and prolly fuck it up.
Bill
Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.

2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap

Ironman Alloyz
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Post by Ironman Alloyz » Mon Jan 05, 2009 10:32 am

well i was thinking of getting the swap like 1yrs ago...but then i bought a motorcycle instead so my passion for the swap died out lol

i was thinking of gettting a car in the fall of 09....but i was gonna need my car to last till fal of 09 (damn)....most members here got there swap done by teamnitehawk right from srt4superstore?

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Post by lambostealth » Tue Jan 06, 2009 11:25 am

Make certain it is your timing belt before going any further here, there is an inspection grommet on the timing belt cover, pull the grommet and have someone crank the engine while you watch the cam sprocket, if it moves, you're fine, just need to figure out what is going on, but, if you saw the cam move a bit, you are probably safe from timing belt failure.
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occasional demons
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Post by occasional demons » Tue Jan 06, 2009 12:18 pm

Unless it moved from the piston hitting a valve.
Ironman Alloyz wrote:okay after taking another look....i trried to start it with the sensor off/disconnected....watched the camshaft (actually the magnet cover, the one with the torx bolt in the middle) and when i cranked the car it turns slightly once.
I would crank it by hand, by removing the tire/splashshield to verify the cam gear. granted if damage is done, no sense flogging it some more. If there is valve/piston contact, it should be very hard to turn it past that piont by hand. The starter has a very good torque advantage over your arm/ratchet.
Bill
Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.

2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap

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