Question about control arms **pics**
Question about control arms **pics**
So, the rear bushings on my control arms are literally, shredded; pretty much mangled. I will post pics later. Anyway, should this cause a squeaking/grinding/getonyournervessobadyouwanttodriveoffacliff noise almost all the time when you turn the wheel or hit a bump? Or is there something else I should look for?
Also, I heard that it easier to actually replace the control arms than to just change the bushings, is this true? What about price? Price estimate from shops?
I'm a noob, I know. Thanks in advance.
Also, I heard that it easier to actually replace the control arms than to just change the bushings, is this true? What about price? Price estimate from shops?
I'm a noob, I know. Thanks in advance.
Last edited by jake_tim on Sat Jan 10, 2009 9:29 pm, edited 2 times in total.

The bushing on the rear arms are non serviceable, you have to get new arms. it is a very easy install (relatively speaking), just raise the rear, and unbolt the old ones, and put the news ones in. You will need an immediate alignment after that because your alignment is set through the toe-adjusting dials on these control/ lateral arms. also, during install, you would have to make sure you get the right orientation of each arm, because they are not interchangeable although they look similar. it is detailed in the FSM.
they will cause all kinds of issues if they are shot, and the car will not be that safe if they are in a real bad shape........
the only after market bushing that could be used in these are the ones made by prothane, and require you to burn the old bushings out to put the new ones in.....
a shop should not charge you more than 30 minutes labor for this, the alignment is what will take money and time...
good luck
they will cause all kinds of issues if they are shot, and the car will not be that safe if they are in a real bad shape........
the only after market bushing that could be used in these are the ones made by prothane, and require you to burn the old bushings out to put the new ones in.....
a shop should not charge you more than 30 minutes labor for this, the alignment is what will take money and time...
good luck
Huh? The bushings are available from Mopar. Part #4656012AF...MSRP $49.15 each.latief wrote:The bushing on the rear arms are non serviceable, you have to get new arms.
If the arms are otherwise OK, just replace the bushings.
If I could just figure out how to meld the Outback and the Neon into one car...


My bad, I misread this and thought he was talking about the rear control arms.Danteneon wrote:Huh? The bushings are available from Mopar. Part #4656012AF...MSRP $49.15 each.latief wrote:The bushing on the rear arms are non serviceable, you have to get new arms.
If the arms are otherwise OK, just replace the bushings.
latief wrote:My bad, I misread this and thought he was talking about the rear control arms.Danteneon wrote:Huh? The bushings are available from Mopar. Part #4656012AF...MSRP $49.15 each.latief wrote:The bushing on the rear arms are non serviceable, you have to get new arms.
If the arms are otherwise OK, just replace the bushings.ignore my previous post !!!
If I could just figure out how to meld the Outback and the Neon into one car...


I believe Mopar sells new arms with bushings already pressed in complete. Unless you have access to a hydraulic press, LCA bushings have been known to be a pain. I'd recommend aftermarket urethane bushings all around if you decide to just replace them. Might as well add some performance while you're at it!
-Derek
|Donate to 2gn|Feedback || OB's | GozziFab | All Business |
|Donate to 2gn|Feedback || OB's | GozziFab | All Business |
Yes, just get a torch and it's very easy to burn the bushings out. I did it in about 5 minutes. Pretty fun actually. Maybe realize I might've been an arsonist in another life.
>_>
<_<
>_>
<_<
dank(r/t) wrote:you tell 'em altezza light, black headlight cover guy!
you know what's up, it's obvious.
TheRandom1 wrote:Adionik, you're an asshole, we all know this.
- hansken_yo
- 2GN Veteran
- Posts: 5148
- Joined: Wed Oct 11, 2006 10:54 am
- Location: Washington
New LCA come with both bushings and ball joints (that's a plus), however, if you wanted to upgrade your bushings you'll need to burn the old ones out and clean them up as much as possible before installing upgraded ones. I would NOT suggest Energy, but rather go for Prothane (install is MUCH MUCH easier) 

| - John || Project Log || Official I'm Going To Drive My Neon Till It Dies Club #000001 |
Everyone knows that for breasts to be "perfect" they need to be within reach.
-
occasional demons
- Junior Admin
- Posts: 20067
- Joined: Thu May 03, 2007 12:14 pm
- Location: Ashland Ohio
Maybe I'm retarded, but the ES bushings went well for me. But I used the SRT ones. Really don't know what the difference is tho.
If you go with OEM bushings, you will need to press out the complete assy. The the aftermarket reuses the outer shell and center spacer bushing. That is why you have to remove the rubber from the oem bushings. (burn/scrape/both)
But you leave the outer shell in the LCA.
If you go with OEM bushings, you will need to press out the complete assy. The the aftermarket reuses the outer shell and center spacer bushing. That is why you have to remove the rubber from the oem bushings. (burn/scrape/both)
But you leave the outer shell in the LCA.
Bill
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
Some people will say no, but I would.
Btw, CHANGE YOUR BALL JOINTS
You will freaking thank me later. It doesn't matter if they're working fine, get new ones.
Btw, CHANGE YOUR BALL JOINTS
You will freaking thank me later. It doesn't matter if they're working fine, get new ones.
dank(r/t) wrote:you tell 'em altezza light, black headlight cover guy!
you know what's up, it's obvious.
TheRandom1 wrote:Adionik, you're an asshole, we all know this.
Danteneon, isnt there or wasnt there a part number change for the front lower control arms due to the bushing design - I remember reading this in a Motors mag couple years ago - - - -
FYI - instead of buying and replacing components - You can buy A/M arm assy's from Dorman - I just replaced mine - bought from Rock Auto
FYI - instead of buying and replacing components - You can buy A/M arm assy's from Dorman - I just replaced mine - bought from Rock Auto
2000 LX 3sp Auto, 201,000 miles, Orig engine and trans - both have never been apart other than reg maint. 33 mpg

