Question about control arms **pics**

Have some questions about how to achive better handling and stopping power using different springs, upgrading to coilovers, questions on swaybars, bushings, different rotors, pads, ect... Having any steering problems or questions about steering racks, tie rods, tie rod ends, ect... ask these questions here.
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jake_tim
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Question about control arms **pics**

Post by jake_tim » Fri Jan 09, 2009 2:27 pm

So, the rear bushings on my control arms are literally, shredded; pretty much mangled. I will post pics later. Anyway, should this cause a squeaking/grinding/getonyournervessobadyouwanttodriveoffacliff noise almost all the time when you turn the wheel or hit a bump? Or is there something else I should look for?

Also, I heard that it easier to actually replace the control arms than to just change the bushings, is this true? What about price? Price estimate from shops?

I'm a noob, I know. Thanks in advance.
Last edited by jake_tim on Sat Jan 10, 2009 9:29 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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latief
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Post by latief » Fri Jan 09, 2009 2:45 pm

The bushing on the rear arms are non serviceable, you have to get new arms. it is a very easy install (relatively speaking), just raise the rear, and unbolt the old ones, and put the news ones in. You will need an immediate alignment after that because your alignment is set through the toe-adjusting dials on these control/ lateral arms. also, during install, you would have to make sure you get the right orientation of each arm, because they are not interchangeable although they look similar. it is detailed in the FSM.

they will cause all kinds of issues if they are shot, and the car will not be that safe if they are in a real bad shape........

the only after market bushing that could be used in these are the ones made by prothane, and require you to burn the old bushings out to put the new ones in.....

a shop should not charge you more than 30 minutes labor for this, the alignment is what will take money and time...

good luck

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Danteneon
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Post by Danteneon » Fri Jan 09, 2009 2:50 pm

latief wrote:The bushing on the rear arms are non serviceable, you have to get new arms.
Huh? The bushings are available from Mopar. Part #4656012AF...MSRP $49.15 each.

If the arms are otherwise OK, just replace the bushings.
If I could just figure out how to meld the Outback and the Neon into one car...

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latief
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Post by latief » Fri Jan 09, 2009 3:27 pm

Danteneon wrote:
latief wrote:The bushing on the rear arms are non serviceable, you have to get new arms.
Huh? The bushings are available from Mopar. Part #4656012AF...MSRP $49.15 each.

If the arms are otherwise OK, just replace the bushings.
My bad, I misread this and thought he was talking about the rear control arms. :tardbang: ignore my previous post !!!

jake_tim
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Post by jake_tim » Fri Jan 09, 2009 3:31 pm

No no, its the front control arms, just the bushings farthest back mainly. Really, all the control arm bushings are shot.
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Danteneon
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Post by Danteneon » Fri Jan 09, 2009 3:52 pm

latief wrote:
Danteneon wrote:
latief wrote:The bushing on the rear arms are non serviceable, you have to get new arms.
Huh? The bushings are available from Mopar. Part #4656012AF...MSRP $49.15 each.

If the arms are otherwise OK, just replace the bushings.
My bad, I misread this and thought he was talking about the rear control arms. :tardbang: ignore my previous post !!!
:lol: No worries. But that does explain the "don't get the arms mixed up" part!
If I could just figure out how to meld the Outback and the Neon into one car...

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Post by OB » Fri Jan 09, 2009 4:06 pm

I believe Mopar sells new arms with bushings already pressed in complete. Unless you have access to a hydraulic press, LCA bushings have been known to be a pain. I'd recommend aftermarket urethane bushings all around if you decide to just replace them. Might as well add some performance while you're at it!
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Adionik
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Post by Adionik » Fri Jan 09, 2009 4:18 pm

Maybe get that Bushing kit modern sells
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Post by jake_tim » Fri Jan 09, 2009 4:46 pm

Ok, so I am sure that it is easy enough getting the front control arms off. Is it true that I can just burn them out, the bushings that is? I have a vice to press the new bearings in with.

Pretty easy install other than that?
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Adionik
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Post by Adionik » Fri Jan 09, 2009 6:03 pm

Yes, just get a torch and it's very easy to burn the bushings out. I did it in about 5 minutes. Pretty fun actually. Maybe realize I might've been an arsonist in another life.

>_>

<_<
dank(r/t) wrote:you tell 'em altezza light, black headlight cover guy!
you know what's up, it's obvious.
TheRandom1 wrote:Adionik, you're an asshole, we all know this.

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Post by hansken_yo » Fri Jan 09, 2009 7:32 pm

New LCA come with both bushings and ball joints (that's a plus), however, if you wanted to upgrade your bushings you'll need to burn the old ones out and clean them up as much as possible before installing upgraded ones. I would NOT suggest Energy, but rather go for Prothane (install is MUCH MUCH easier) :thumbup:
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Post by occasional demons » Fri Jan 09, 2009 9:34 pm

Maybe I'm retarded, but the ES bushings went well for me. But I used the SRT ones. Really don't know what the difference is tho.

If you go with OEM bushings, you will need to press out the complete assy. The the aftermarket reuses the outer shell and center spacer bushing. That is why you have to remove the rubber from the oem bushings. (burn/scrape/both)
But you leave the outer shell in the LCA.
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Post by jake_tim » Sat Jan 10, 2009 2:33 pm

Is it necessary to get your car aligned after replacing the control arm bushings since they will be coming off?
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Adionik
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Post by Adionik » Sat Jan 10, 2009 2:48 pm

Some people will say no, but I would.

Btw, CHANGE YOUR BALL JOINTS

You will freaking thank me later. It doesn't matter if they're working fine, get new ones.
dank(r/t) wrote:you tell 'em altezza light, black headlight cover guy!
you know what's up, it's obvious.
TheRandom1 wrote:Adionik, you're an asshole, we all know this.

jake_tim
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Post by jake_tim » Sat Jan 10, 2009 9:28 pm

Pics of control arm bushings, warning, crappy cell phone pics:

Driver's side:

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Passenger side:

Image

Pretty messed up, huh?
Image

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thttxboy
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Post by thttxboy » Sat Jan 10, 2009 9:42 pm

lol yes its obvious should probably spend the money on a good set of bushing so that doesnt happen too often

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Post by Speeder » Sat Jan 10, 2009 10:52 pm

should get fixed soon
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Post by 2kLX » Thu Jan 15, 2009 1:07 pm

Danteneon, isnt there or wasnt there a part number change for the front lower control arms due to the bushing design - I remember reading this in a Motors mag couple years ago - - - -

FYI - instead of buying and replacing components - You can buy A/M arm assy's from Dorman - I just replaced mine - bought from Rock Auto
2000 LX 3sp Auto, 201,000 miles, Orig engine and trans - both have never been apart other than reg maint. 33 mpg

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Danteneon
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Post by Danteneon » Thu Jan 15, 2009 1:12 pm

The control arms have superseded many times over the years, and it is because the bushing design has improved and because the supplier for Chrysler had changed at some point.
If I could just figure out how to meld the Outback and the Neon into one car...

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2kLX
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Post by 2kLX » Thu Jan 15, 2009 2:16 pm

Thank you !!
2000 LX 3sp Auto, 201,000 miles, Orig engine and trans - both have never been apart other than reg maint. 33 mpg

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