What's needed for tie rod change?

Have some questions about how to achive better handling and stopping power using different springs, upgrading to coilovers, questions on swaybars, bushings, different rotors, pads, ect... Having any steering problems or questions about steering racks, tie rods, tie rod ends, ect... ask these questions here.
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clancaster23
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What's needed for tie rod change?

Post by clancaster23 » Tue Jan 13, 2009 1:56 am

I am getting weird feelings from my front end when turning. When I pull out of my drive, I back onto a downhill slope. I can feel the front wheel hopping as I back up (I back up turning the wheel far right and it feels like the drivers side wheel is hopping). Also, when I go to leave, going up the hill and turning to the left now, I get a rolling feeling in the steering. I had the tie rods go out in a different car I had before and that's why I think they are going in my '00. I wanted to ask what kind of special tools if any are needed to do the change them if in fact that is he problem. I can't check for sure for a couple days but plan to check soon and replace if needed.


Also, how do I tell which are bad as far as the inners and outers go? And one more question. Is there a way to mark them so i don't have to get it aligned?

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Post by jT » Tue Jan 13, 2009 8:12 am

if you do the tie rod ends you dont need any special tools.. a vice grip to hold the inner tie rod, and a wrench of x-size (dont remember exactly) to fit snug around the tie rod end to turn it... a torch might also help to loosen it up. then another wrench or socket to take the bottom nut off.. then a hammer or mallet or ball joint/tie rod separator to free the tie rod end from the knuckle if its in there really good

manuals say to loosen the jamb nut but i'm not really sure why since it doesnt hold the tie rod end on or anything.. i'm not really sure of it's purpose other than for the alignment. so if you dont move that nut you wont need an alignment since the tie rod end will be at the same position.


for the inner tie rod there is a how-to here you can look at

dont know how to know the difference for which is bad

SlvrACR
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Post by SlvrACR » Tue Jan 13, 2009 11:18 pm

FYI not all tie rods are the same length. The stock ones are longer then Moog.
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2kLX
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Post by 2kLX » Thu Jan 15, 2009 1:56 pm

after jacking up the car and and removing the wheel - loosen the jam nut - (this is will back away from the tie rod end - remove the nut from the tie rod end - take big mallet/hammer - hit the top of the tie rod end, sticking thru the knuckle - unscrew the tie rod end - screw the new one on - you will have to eye ball as best as possible - to get the wheel straight as possible - but you will still need an alignment regardless - as said above - many A/M tie rod ends - the body can be different lengths - hope this helps
2000 LX 3sp Auto, 201,000 miles, Orig engine and trans - both have never been apart other than reg maint. 33 mpg

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Danteneon
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Post by Danteneon » Thu Jan 15, 2009 2:09 pm

Are you sure it's the tie rod? Bad lower control arm bushings can have similar symptoms.
If I could just figure out how to meld the Outback and the Neon into one car...

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2kLX
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Post by 2kLX » Thu Jan 15, 2009 2:19 pm

or lower ball joint
2000 LX 3sp Auto, 201,000 miles, Orig engine and trans - both have never been apart other than reg maint. 33 mpg

clancaster23
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Post by clancaster23 » Thu Jan 15, 2009 10:10 pm

It is possible that it's the bushing although i have never changed one of those. When I got my tires on a while back I was told that a bushing was in need of change but I totally forgot about it. I'll have to chekc that out. As soon as I figure out what that is LOL!

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