Multiple Codes, really need your help! *update*

Xtian · Post by **Xtian** » Tue Jan 27, 2009 1:29 am

one of my spark plugs popped off on the freeway, so I got home and discovered there was no spark plug, I am going to buy some new tomorrow, what do you guys think it is?
Did a FULL tune-up about a month ago, spark plugs are 2 months old and the wires are about 1 month old, the coil pack was also recently replaced about a week ago.

BTW I installed an cold air intake on Friday, but I don't think that is causing any issues.

Mat00ES · Post by **Mat00ES** » Tue Jan 27, 2009 1:42 am

popped off? I guess I coukld see if it was not tightened all the way it could shake loose, Idk if it could actually shoot out though. Thats kind of odd, actually really odd to me.

Xtian · Post by **Xtian** » Tue Jan 27, 2009 1:51 am

Mat00ES wrote:popped off? I guess I coukld see if it was not tightened all the way it could shake loose, Idk if it could actually shoot out though. Thats kind of odd, actually really odd to me.

shoot of, I was looking for it around the engine area, but couldn't find it.

Donkeypuncher · Post by **Donkeypuncher** » Tue Jan 27, 2009 2:49 am

This is actually more common than you would think, I remember at least 3 members on here that the same thing happen.

If you don't tighten the plug down it will vibrate itself loose. When you add in the compression pressure from the cylinder during the combustion stroke, out comes the spark plug. It's similar to having a loose lug nut, over time it works itself loose until catastrophic failure occurs.

I like to tighten mine 3/4 to 1 full turn past hand tight just to where it's nice and snug. I would check the top few threads just to make sure they aren't damaged, sometimes the last few threads will strip out when the plug shoots out.

Xtian · Post by **Xtian** » Tue Jan 27, 2009 2:56 am

That's the thing, that #3 spark, cannot be tightened really good, because whoever had the car before, messed up the tube and everything in there. I found a penny in there last time when I replaced them.

Donkeypuncher · Post by **Donkeypuncher** » Tue Jan 27, 2009 3:07 am

Sounds like the threads are stripped if you can't tighten the plug down. Looks like you need a heli-coil kit to repair the threads so the plug can actually seat and be tightened properly.

It's a kit where you drill out the bad threads, then you twist a spring like metal spiral into the hole to create new threads. It's actually said to be stronger than the oem threads, but I haven't had to use one yet.

I think it was occasional demons that told me about the kit when one of my valve cover bolts stripped out.

Post by **racer12306** » Tue Jan 27, 2009 6:55 am

If you do it, make sure you don't get metal down in the cylinder. AKA: remove the head

esteinmaier · Post by **esteinmaier** » Tue Jan 27, 2009 8:00 am

Donkeypuncher wrote:Sounds like the threads are stripped if you can't tighten the plug down. Looks like you need a heli-coil kit to repair the threads so the plug can actually seat and be tightened properly.

It's a kit where you drill out the bad threads, then you twist a spring like metal spiral into the hole to create new threads. It's actually said to be stronger than the oem threads, but I haven't had to use one yet.

I think it was occasional demons that told me about the kit when one of my valve cover bolts stripped out.

ALL of my cam cap threads are heli-coiled. I stripped one out when putting my head together and I didn't think I wanted to mess around with it again later, so I just did them all. Helicoils are extremely strong, especially when compared to aluminum threads.

Xtian · Post by **Xtian** » Wed Jan 28, 2009 1:19 am

what size of helicoil should I get? and also can you find it at a local store like Schucks or Napa?

Donkeypuncher · Post by **Donkeypuncher** » Wed Jan 28, 2009 3:08 am

Napa carries helicoil kits, at least my local napa does. I'm sure they can order it if they don't have the correct size. Not sure about the size though, I guess measure the spark plugs.

Post by **occasional demons** » Wed Jan 28, 2009 9:40 am

14mm IIRC, but not sure on the pitch. Any good parts store will get you the right drill/tap/heli-coil. You could almost get away with leaving the head on, if it wasn't for having to knock off the drive tab on the Heli-coil. Grease on the tap usually keeps the shavings retained. But it still won't do much for that little tab. The tube will be fun to work through if you leave it in too.

Xtian · Post by **Xtian** » Wed Jan 28, 2009 12:02 pm

nice now I got codes P300 and P303 my oil light is on also.
I hate Mondays, so do the rest of the 80,000 people that were laid off on Monday.

also got these:
P0112(M) Intake Air Temp Sensor Voltage Low Intake air (charge) temperature sensor input below the minimum acceptable voltage.
P0203(M) Injector #3 Control Circuit An open or shorted condition detected in control circuit for injector #3 or the INJ 3 injector bank.
P0300(M) Multiple Cylinder Misfire Misfire detected in multiple cylinders.
P0303(M) CYLINDER #3 MISFIRE Misfire detected in cylinder #3.
P0353(M) Ignition Coil # 3 Primary Circuit Peak primary circuit current not achieved with maximum dwell time.
P0505(M) Idle Air Control Motor Circuits Actual state of AIS motor not equal to desired state.
P1684 Battery Disconnected in the last 50 Starts The battery has been disconnected within the last 50 starts.

Danteneon · Post by **Danteneon** » Wed Jan 28, 2009 12:25 pm

Xtian wrote:I hate Mondays, so do the rest of the 80,000 people that were laid off on Monday.

But today is Wednesday

As far as your codes go...damn. The mis-fire codes are probably all related to your spark plug issues. You really need to take care of one problem at a time. How is the spark plug fix going?

Xtian · Post by **Xtian** » Wed Jan 28, 2009 12:31 pm

Danteneon wrote:
Xtian wrote:I hate Mondays, so do the rest of the 80,000 people that were laid off on Monday.
But today is Wednesday

As far as your codes go...damn. The mis-fire codes are probably all related to your spark plug issues. You really need to take care of one problem at a time. How is the spark plug fix going?

Well, I called in for work again. I ordered helicoil kit from Schucks and will be in my house around 1PM. Once I get it will try to fix it.

Post by **occasional demons** » Wed Jan 28, 2009 2:08 pm

Xtian wrote:nice now I got codes P300 and P303 my oil light is on also.
I hate Mondays, so do the rest of the 80,000 people that were laid off on Monday.
also got these:
P0112(M) Intake Air Temp Sensor Voltage Low Intake air (charge) temperature sensor input below the minimum acceptable voltage.
P0203(M) Injector #3 Control Circuit An open or shorted condition detected in control circuit for injector #3 or the INJ 3 injector bank.
P0300(M) Multiple Cylinder Misfire Misfire detected in multiple cylinders.
P0303(M) CYLINDER #3 MISFIRE Misfire detected in cylinder #3.
P0353(M) Ignition Coil # 3 Primary Circuit Peak primary circuit current not achieved with maximum dwell time.
P0505(M) Idle Air Control Motor Circuits Actual state of AIS motor not equal to desired state. P1684 Battery Disconnected in the last 50 Starts The battery has been disconnected within the last 50 starts.

These I'm not sure why you would have.
Prolly due to a missing plug (no ground) and a massive lack of compression in one cyl. really screwing with the idle speed. Or the plug took out the wiring for the AIT and AIC. and lodged into the oil sender wire grounding it out.
You are running the engine, or just keying on? If just keying on, the oil light will remain on until the engine is turning. But I assume/hope you know that.

Xtian · Post by **Xtian** » Wed Jan 28, 2009 2:16 pm

occasional demons wrote:
Xtian wrote:nice now I got codes P300 and P303 my oil light is on also.
I hate Mondays, so do the rest of the 80,000 people that were laid off on Monday.
also got these:
P0112(M) Intake Air Temp Sensor Voltage Low Intake air (charge) temperature sensor input below the minimum acceptable voltage.
P0203(M) Injector #3 Control Circuit An open or shorted condition detected in control circuit for injector #3 or the INJ 3 injector bank.
P0300(M) Multiple Cylinder Misfire Misfire detected in multiple cylinders.
P0303(M) CYLINDER #3 MISFIRE Misfire detected in cylinder #3.
P0353(M) Ignition Coil # 3 Primary Circuit Peak primary circuit current not achieved with maximum dwell time.
P0505(M) Idle Air Control Motor Circuits Actual state of AIS motor not equal to desired state. P1684 Battery Disconnected in the last 50 Starts The battery has been disconnected within the last 50 starts.

These I'm not sure why you would have.
Prolly due to a missing plug (no ground) and a massive lack of compression in one cyl. really screwing with the idle speed. Or the plug took out the wiring for the AIT and AIC. and lodged into the oil sender wire grounding it out.
You are running the engine, or just keying on? If just keying on, the oil light will remain on until the engine is turning. But I assume/hope you know that.

Oil light remained on, even with the engine turned on. Now I didn't really left the car on for more than a minute, because it will shut of itself no matter what. But still I am waiting to get the helicoil kit from Schucks. Will update later.

Xtian · Post by **Xtian** » Thu Jan 29, 2009 3:45 am

Its officially fixed now! I spend all my day and around $80, but car runs AMAZING, there is no knocking even when cold, no vibration!
I got a bad cold now but what can you do.

2GN.ORG

Multiple Codes, really need your help! update

Multiple Codes, really need your help! update