Newb question about Mopar BOV

Midnight_Rider · Post by **Midnight_Rider** » Wed Jan 28, 2009 1:59 pm

Is there anything that I need to know before I have my dealership order a Mopar BOV? It looks to be a cheap way for me to satisfy my mod fix (I haven't been able to afford any mods other than the STS) but I want to make sure that I'm knowledgable before plunking down some cash.

**gets ready to duck the flying tomatoes for asking so many newbie questions**

Post by **Diablo0** » Wed Jan 28, 2009 2:13 pm

Not really, just make sure they know which direction it faces so they don't install it backwards. That and they don't over tighten the bolts for the surge valve. It's also a good idea to check for any boost leaks after the install to be sure since it's been known to leak between the turbo and BOV plate. There is a gasket but sometimes air still gets by.

esteinmaier · Post by **esteinmaier** » Wed Jan 28, 2009 8:34 pm

It's a pretty straight forward mod. Although if it were me, I'd ditch the mopar thing altogether and put something nicer in right before the TB. Probably about the same price, and then you can get whatever you want.

Midnight_Rider · Post by **Midnight_Rider** » Thu Jan 29, 2009 4:24 am

Thanks for the input. I'm going to stick to Mopar performance parts rather than going the aftermarket route since I'm not handy and have to rely on the dealership doing any installs. Be patient with my folks- I've never modded a car before.

Adionik · Post by **Adionik** » Thu Jan 29, 2009 4:28 am

esteinmaier wrote:It's a pretty straight forward mod. Although if it were me, I'd ditch the mopar thing altogether and put something nicer in right before the TB. Probably about the same price, and then you can get whatever you want.

Mopar rice plate - $20
RTV - $1

PLEASE find me a cold side pipe with BOV flange for that much. The cold side pipe alone is almost $150 for one with a good fitment

Midnight rider, go to lowes and get longer 10mm bolts incase they're not included with the blue plate. Use a gasket AND RTV. Also make sure you don't install it backwards

Midnight_Rider · Post by **Midnight_Rider** » Thu Jan 29, 2009 4:35 am

Adionik wrote:Midnight rider, go to lowes and get longer 10mm bolts incase they're not included with the blue plate. Use a gasket AND RTV. Also make sure you don't install it backwards

Whatever comes from Mopar with the part will be what my mechanic will use, I guess. And I'll remind him about not installing it backwards (sounds like what I would probably do if I did the install myself- this is why I pay $$$ at the dealership!).

Adionik · Post by **Adionik** » Thu Jan 29, 2009 7:07 am

The blue plate has a bad wrap for leaking from improper installation. So when you take him the OEM gasket, also take him a tube of RTV. Some have been okay with the stock gasket, but that is NOT an install you want to do again.

I would say if you have a 10mm wrench it's an install that will take you an hour if you know how to use a wrench

esteinmaier · Post by **esteinmaier** » Thu Jan 29, 2009 7:14 am

Adionik wrote:
esteinmaier wrote:It's a pretty straight forward mod. Although if it were me, I'd ditch the mopar thing altogether and put something nicer in right before the TB. Probably about the same price, and then you can get whatever you want.
Mopar rice plate - $20
RTV - $1

PLEASE find me a cold side pipe with BOV flange for that much. The cold side pipe alone is almost $150 for one with a good fitment

Midnight rider, go to lowes and get longer 10mm bolts incase they're not included with the blue plate. Use a gasket AND RTV. Also make sure you don't install it backwards

I guess I kinda take for granted that I have the ability to make that kind of stuff.

Adionik · Post by **Adionik** » Thu Jan 29, 2009 7:25 am

esteinmaier wrote:
Adionik wrote:
esteinmaier wrote:It's a pretty straight forward mod. Although if it were me, I'd ditch the mopar thing altogether and put something nicer in right before the TB. Probably about the same price, and then you can get whatever you want.
Mopar rice plate - $20
RTV - $1

PLEASE find me a cold side pipe with BOV flange for that much. The cold side pipe alone is almost $150 for one with a good fitment

Midnight rider, go to lowes and get longer 10mm bolts incase they're not included with the blue plate. Use a gasket AND RTV. Also make sure you don't install it backwards
I guess I kinda take for granted that I have the ability to make that kind of stuff.

Yes....retail mark is a huge bitch. $150 for a freaking pipe.

Midnight_Rider · Post by **Midnight_Rider** » Thu Jan 29, 2009 2:05 pm

What is "RTV"?

Post by **Diablo0** » Thu Jan 29, 2009 2:22 pm

RTV = Room Temperature Vulcanization

It comes in a tube and dispenses like toothpaste. It's used to make gaskets and when it cures it turns to rubber. It comes in different colors like Red and Blue which usually disignate what application it's made for like for high or low temperatures.

Danteneon · Post by **Danteneon** » Thu Jan 29, 2009 2:47 pm

One word of caution...if you want to use RTV (which many people swear by) do not use the gasket also. It's a either/or, not both.

Adionik · Post by **Adionik** » Thu Jan 29, 2009 3:57 pm

Danteneon wrote:One word of caution...if you want to use RTV (which many people swear by) do not use the gasket also. It's a either/or, not both.

No you have to use both to get the seal you need. Multiple SRT's have done this including myself.

J-Villa · Post by **J-Villa** » Thu Jan 29, 2009 3:59 pm

you have no idea how hard this was to put on my pt. I had to do the furthest to the left bolt from underneath. And you couldn't get a socket wrench in there. And i didn't have a ratchet wrench. So i did it by little turns. Took forever.

Danteneon · Post by **Danteneon** » Thu Jan 29, 2009 4:15 pm

Adionik wrote:
Danteneon wrote:One word of caution...if you want to use RTV (which many people swear by) do not use the gasket also. It's a either/or, not both.
No you have to use both to get the seal you need. Multiple SRT's have done this including myself.

On any application that RTV is used you should not use a gasket as well.

Copied from the Chrysler service manual...

FORM-IN-PLACE GASKETS AND SEALERS
There are numerous places where form-in-place gaskets are used on the engine. Care must be taken when applying form-in-place gaskets to assure obtaining the desired results. Do not use form-in-place gasket material unless specified. Bead size, continuity, and location are of great importance. Too thin a bead can result in leakage while too much can result in spill-over which can break off and obstruct fluid feed lines. A continuous bead of the proper width is essential to obtain a leak-free gasket.

There are numerous types of form-in-place gasket materials that are used in the engine area. Mopar® Engine RTV GEN II, Mopar® ATF-RTV, and Mopar® Gasket Maker gasket materials, each have different properties and can not be used in place of the other.

MOPAR® ENGINE RTV GEN II is used to seal components exposed to engine oil. This material is a specially designed black silicone rubber RTV that retains adhesion and sealing properties when exposed to engine oil. Moisture in the air causes the material to cure. This material is available in three ounce tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one year this material will not properly cure. Always inspect the package for the expiration date before use.

MOPAR® ATF RTV is a specifically designed black silicone rubber RTV that retains adhesion and sealing properties to seal components exposed to automatic transmission fluid, engine coolants, and moisture. This material is available in three ounce tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one year this material will not properly cure. Always inspect the package for the expiration date before use.

MOPAR® GASKET MAKER is an anaerobic type gasket material. The material cures in the absence of air when squeezed between two metallic surfaces. It will not cure if left in the uncovered tube. The anaerobic material is for use between two machined surfaces. Do not use on flexible metal flanges.

MOPAR® BED PLATE SEALANT is a unique (green-in-color) anaerobic type gasket material that is specially made to seal the area between the bed plate and cylinder block without disturbing the bearing clearance or alignment of these components. The material cures slowly in the absence of air when torqued between two metallic surfaces, and will rapidly cure when heat is applied.

MOPAR® GASKET SEALANT is a slow drying, permanently soft sealer. This material is recommended for sealing threaded fittings and gaskets against leakage of oil and coolant. Can be used on threaded and machined parts under all temperatures. This material also will prevent corrosion. Mopar® Gasket Sealant is available in a 13 oz. aerosol can or 4oz./16 oz. can w/applicator.

SEALER APPLICATION
Mopar® Gasket Maker material should be applied sparingly 1 mm (0.040 in.) diameter or less of sealant to one gasket surface. Be certain the material surrounds each mounting hole. Excess material can easily be wiped off. Components should be torqued in place within 15 minutes. The use of a locating dowel is recommended during assembly to prevent smearing material off the location.

Mopar® Engine RTV GEN II or ATF RTV gasket material should be applied in a continuous bead approximately 3 mm (0.120 in.) in diameter. All mounting holes must be circled. For corner sealing, a 3.17 or 6.35 mm (1/8 or 1/4 in.) drop is placed in the center of the gasket contact area. Uncured sealant may be removed with a shop towel. Components should be torqued in place while the sealant is still wet to the touch (within 10 minutes). The usage of a locating dowel is recommended during assembly to prevent smearing material off the location.

Mopar® Gasket Sealant in an aerosol can should be applied using a thin, even coat sprayed completely over both surfaces to be joined, and both sides of a gasket. Then proceed with assembly. Material in a can w/applicator can be brushed on evenly over the sealing surfaces.

Long story short, use the proper sealant and you will not have any leak issues.

Adionik · Post by **Adionik** » Thu Jan 29, 2009 4:56 pm

I know what the FSM says, but having dealt with this blue plate a few times I know what i'm saying...gotta use them both to be leak free. Don't have to go crazy with it, just enough at the edges. I'll post pictures of mine when I get it back from being ported

The install is less of a bitch if you remove the oil feed line to the turbo

Danteneon · Post by **Danteneon** » Thu Jan 29, 2009 5:33 pm

I'm not going to clutter up David's thread any more, but I have to ask...what is the purpose of the gasket if the RTV is doing the sealing duties, other than giving a weak point for air to go past? The RTV is a thicker seal than the gasket (if put on correctly), so the gasket shouldn't be touching one side.

And on that note, I'm done. Good choice David btw

Adionik · Post by **Adionik** » Thu Jan 29, 2009 5:52 pm

Danteneon wrote:I'm not going to clutter up David's thread any more, but I have to ask...what is the purpose of the gasket if the RTV is doing the sealing duties, other than giving a weak point for air to go past? The RTV is a thicker seal than the gasket (if put on correctly), so the gasket shouldn't be touching one side.

And on that note, I'm done. Good choice David btw

I really don't know why you're getting defensive on the subject. Because I speak of something outside your FSM specifications?

The gasket is extremely thin if you've ever seen it. Doesn't seal the edges exactly as it should, and that's where the RTV comes in on the edges to make it air tight, otherwise it will cause a leak that the blue plates are known for.

krc21 · Post by **krc21** » Thu Jan 29, 2009 7:06 pm

Adionik not to get on anyone but you use to ask all these really stupid questions before you bought your srt? now you think you know everything because you bought one?? Its come to my attention that you dont. First of all if things are torqued to spec there will be no problems with the gasket. Second it is never a good idea to use a gasket and sealant or gasket maker if you know much about cars. Although it may have worked for your application it is not the proper way to do it. I do recall you asking numerous stupid questions when you bought a srt turbo fold for your neon and realized it would cost way to much so you bought a srt instead. Good move. although then you question why a swap costs 5000 bucks.. obviously you were figuring out it would be expensive to turbo your 2.0 so you bought a car instead. Dont become like alot of the people on srtforums and bring it over here. We were helpful to you when you had questions about your neon. Now that you have an srt doesnt mean you know anything more or less then anyone else does. If you want to act like a know it all stay on srtforums. were about helping people here not who knows the most.

Adionik · Post by **Adionik** » Thu Jan 29, 2009 7:16 pm

I mention that the rice plate needs RTV and all of a sudden i'm a know-it-all?

Torqued properly or not, a lot of people have problems with the gasket tearing.

I'm trying to help Midnight Rider here so he doesn't have to do the install again or post up a "I can hear hissing" thread down the line. As I said before...this is one install you don't want to do again if you've done it.

I'm not even gonna go into details about how stupid your post is Krc

Oh btw I didn't BUY my SRT-4 manifold, it was given to me for free.

Nutmeg · Post by **Nutmeg** » Thu Jan 29, 2009 7:37 pm

esteinmaier wrote:
Adionik wrote:
esteinmaier wrote:It's a pretty straight forward mod. Although if it were me, I'd ditch the mopar thing altogether and put something nicer in right before the TB. Probably about the same price, and then you can get whatever you want.
Mopar rice plate - $20
RTV - $1

PLEASE find me a cold side pipe with BOV flange for that much. The cold side pipe alone is almost $150 for one with a good fitment

Midnight rider, go to lowes and get longer 10mm bolts incase they're not included with the blue plate. Use a gasket AND RTV. Also make sure you don't install it backwards
I guess I kinda take for granted that I have the ability to make that kind of stuff.

Well, taking into account the MSRP for the blue plate, in addition to the cost of installation at the dealership. That's about the same price too.

n20sxt · Post by **n20sxt** » Thu Jan 29, 2009 8:06 pm

rtv sux just use toothpaste instead, there problem solved no more arguing

Midnight_Rider · Post by **Midnight_Rider** » Fri Jan 30, 2009 3:23 am

Wow, everyone just settle down... This is what I get for being such a klutz that I have to have the dealership install stuff for me.

I'm kind of worried now that I have read everyone's posts (before I forget, thanks guys for being so helpful!) that, if I do get the BOV installed and a leak develops, I will have to pay out of my own pocket to get it fixed. I really have to watch my finances and, since there are no warranties on performance parts, it would be my responsibility if anything goes wrong. Maybe I should just leave the car stock...

yellowpatrol · Post by **yellowpatrol** » Fri Jan 30, 2009 7:35 am

Danteneon wrote: Copied from the Chrysler service manual...

FORM-IN-PLACE GASKETS AND SEALERS
There are numerous places where form-in-place gaskets are used on the engine. Care must be taken when applying form-in-place gaskets to assure obtaining the desired results. Do not use form-in-place gasket material unless specified. Bead size, continuity, and location are of great importance. Too thin a bead can result in leakage while too much can result in spill-over which can break off and obstruct fluid feed lines. A continuous bead of the proper width is essential to obtain a leak-free gasket.

There are numerous types of form-in-place gasket materials that are used in the engine area. Mopar® Engine RTV GEN II, Mopar® ATF-RTV, and Mopar® Gasket Maker gasket materials, each have different properties and can not be used in place of the other.

MOPAR® ENGINE RTV GEN II is used to seal components exposed to engine oil. This material is a specially designed black silicone rubber RTV that retains adhesion and sealing properties when exposed to engine oil. Moisture in the air causes the material to cure. This material is available in three ounce tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one year this material will not properly cure. Always inspect the package for the expiration date before use.

MOPAR® ATF RTV is a specifically designed black silicone rubber RTV that retains adhesion and sealing properties to seal components exposed to automatic transmission fluid, engine coolants, and moisture. This material is available in three ounce tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one year this material will not properly cure. Always inspect the package for the expiration date before use.

MOPAR® GASKET MAKER is an anaerobic type gasket material. The material cures in the absence of air when squeezed between two metallic surfaces. It will not cure if left in the uncovered tube. The anaerobic material is for use between two machined surfaces. Do not use on flexible metal flanges.

MOPAR® BED PLATE SEALANT is a unique (green-in-color) anaerobic type gasket material that is specially made to seal the area between the bed plate and cylinder block without disturbing the bearing clearance or alignment of these components. The material cures slowly in the absence of air when torqued between two metallic surfaces, and will rapidly cure when heat is applied.

MOPAR® GASKET SEALANT is a slow drying, permanently soft sealer. This material is recommended for sealing threaded fittings and gaskets against leakage of oil and coolant. Can be used on threaded and machined parts under all temperatures. This material also will prevent corrosion. Mopar® Gasket Sealant is available in a 13 oz. aerosol can or 4oz./16 oz. can w/applicator.

SEALER APPLICATION
Mopar® Gasket Maker material should be applied sparingly 1 mm (0.040 in.) diameter or less of sealant to one gasket surface. Be certain the material surrounds each mounting hole. Excess material can easily be wiped off. Components should be torqued in place within 15 minutes. The use of a locating dowel is recommended during assembly to prevent smearing material off the location.

Mopar® Engine RTV GEN II or ATF RTV gasket material should be applied in a continuous bead approximately 3 mm (0.120 in.) in diameter. All mounting holes must be circled. For corner sealing, a 3.17 or 6.35 mm (1/8 or 1/4 in.) drop is placed in the center of the gasket contact area. Uncured sealant may be removed with a shop towel. Components should be torqued in place while the sealant is still wet to the touch (within 10 minutes). The usage of a locating dowel is recommended during assembly to prevent smearing material off the location.

Mopar® Gasket Sealant in an aerosol can should be applied using a thin, even coat sprayed completely over both surfaces to be joined, and both sides of a gasket. Then proceed with assembly. Material in a can w/applicator can be brushed on evenly over the sealing surfaces.
Long story short, use the proper sealant and you will not have any leak issues.

Can we get this post in its own topic with a sticky?!

Danteneon · Post by **Danteneon** » Fri Jan 30, 2009 9:33 am

yellowpatrol wrote:Can we get this post in its own topic with a sticky?!

Yes

dbesade · Post by **dbesade** » Fri Jan 30, 2009 10:02 am

Midnight_Rider wrote:Wow, everyone just settle down... This is what I get for being such a klutz that I have to have the dealership install stuff for me. I'm kind of worried now that I have read everyone's posts (before I forget, thanks guys for being so helpful!) that, if I do get the BOV installed and a leak develops, I will have to pay out of my own pocket to get it fixed. I really have to watch my finances and, since there are no warranties on performance parts, it would be my responsibility if anything goes wrong. Maybe I should just leave the car stock...

Hey buddy,

I run the blue plate and I made my own gasket and it works fine with no leaks. I would just go with it and IF and when it leaks address it. I think you should be just fine.

-Dave

zerocwl · Post by **zerocwl** » Wed Mar 04, 2009 4:36 am

im with dbesade on this i have a few friends that have this install on ther srt4s and they got gasket making stuff from the parts store and made ther own. thats what im doing. and i also think they did use a light coat of rtv. also u should try doing it urself man u will feel good about it and love ur car more. everything that is done to my car i have done with my own hands and i love my car more because of that. plus if something gose wrong i prob know what it is.

teamliviD · Post by **teamliviD** » Wed Mar 04, 2009 7:46 am

Gramp...its prolly to late but dont waste your money on something that only makes noise and doesnt work as a true BOV. This is a junk part, it not even a BOV. Spend a little more money and get the AGP kit. Dodge wont have a problem with it installed.....and its a real BOV.

Bebo · Post by **Bebo** » Sat Mar 28, 2009 7:01 pm

If you have the dealer install it you'll have 12/12 on that since they did the work & supplied the part so, if you have any problems with it just take it back.

I just used the provided gasket on mine shimmed the spring & now it has no leaks 20+ psi. Also, I'm a diesel technician & even though the FSM says no sealant w/gasket, I've found from experience that that is incorrect (over the road trucks can ragularly see around 50 psi when accelerating).

With that said if it's installed correctly it won't leak (you don't need sealant).