Camber bolts - Front
Camber bolts - Front
I will be dropping the neon around 1.5 inches this weekend. will i absolutely need camber bolts up-front? i just can't help but feel that camber bolts are not safe. what do you guys think? i have adjustable control arms in the rear so that is not a problem.....
thanks......
thanks......
- hansken_yo
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Camber bolts are very safe. The steel strength is specifically strong enough for its task... so they are safe.
As for dropping the car and needing them... it all depends on if you want to adjust off the negative camber that you are going to incur as well as balance the camber on both sides... So in short. Yes you will need them.
As for dropping the car and needing them... it all depends on if you want to adjust off the negative camber that you are going to incur as well as balance the camber on both sides... So in short. Yes you will need them.

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isn't there a chance that the alignment will move out of place since the bolt diameter is smaller than the strut bolt location? my apologies if this sounds naive as i am not sure exactly how camber bolts hold things in place in there...
thanks,
Edit: another problem is that we don't have performance alignment shops over here, so will a regular shop (assuming they agree to do it) be capable of handling something like this (without killing me on the highway later on because they didn't do it right
)
thanks,
Edit: another problem is that we don't have performance alignment shops over here, so will a regular shop (assuming they agree to do it) be capable of handling something like this (without killing me on the highway later on because they didn't do it right
All camber bolts do is allow the lower clevis on the strut to move in relation to the knuckle by being slightly undersized. Tightening torque secures them, just like any bolts. Sometimes they have special anti-slip appropriations built into them. Any alignment shop will be able to install and use them. I have heard that they do indeed slip, certain brands more than others, and that slotting the struts for camber adjustment is the way to go.
-Derek
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yes slotting the struts is a much better idea than the camber bolts. but lowering your car 1.5" isnt going to give you that bad of a camber problem.
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I'd be more concerned with getting the camber equal than getting the settings back to stock. Camber is the least dangerous alignment measurement. It will do the least damage to the tires and effect handling the least per given degree of adjustment (compared to toe and caster). It can be beneficial to have some negative camber on a performance based suspension, but it isn't hugely effective in small amounts. If you could keep it under 2* and equal all around, you'll be happy with the results, both tire wear wise and handling wise. I still need to slot my struts, but I'm waiting to pull the suspension apart for the bushings install.
-Derek
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Anyone know what the numbers are for the mopar camber bolts ?
Edit: Never mind, found it......
anyone know if these are any different than any other bolt on the market?
Edit: Lilsparkplug, I saw you have these^^^ are they any different in your opinion than other crash bolts? do you have a picture by any chance?
thanks,
Edit: Never mind, found it......
anyone know if these are any different than any other bolt on the market?
Edit: Lilsparkplug, I saw you have these^^^ are they any different in your opinion than other crash bolts? do you have a picture by any chance?
thanks,
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hybrid-Srt2001
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the camber you will get from a 1.5 inch drop will be just fine. I run no camber bolts on my sportline springs and have about negative 2 camber (no real tire wear problems) But like ob said, they're not a bad idea to get it equal from side to side etc. Personally i say go with the mopar bolts. They are a little pricy, but they are the best ones. All the other eccentric camber bolts i have seen/used slipped after a few weeks, causing even worse camber.
- hansken_yo
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Modern Sells the Eibach camber bolts which are no different from the Mopar other than price.hybrid-Srt2001 wrote:the camber you will get from a 1.5 inch drop will be just fine. I run no camber bolts on my sportline springs and have about negative 2 camber (no real tire wear problems) But like ob said, they're not a bad idea to get it equal from side to side etc. Personally i say go with the mopar bolts. They are a little pricy, but they are the best ones. All the other eccentric camber bolts i have seen/used slipped after a few weeks, causing even worse camber.

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hybrid-Srt2001
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umm have you ever seen the mopar bolts? They are way different. The eibach ones are garbage and WILL slip. To the OP the mopar ones are just a slightly smaller bolt, like a few thousandth's. If you don't want to spend that much go to the hardware store and get yourself some grade 8 bolts that are a little smaller than stock. Or if you have access to a lathe take the stock bolt and turn it down a small ammount.. That's what i did on my car and they have held perfectly.
- sidepipe87
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I personally don't trust camber bolts. Too many people have had them slip. Hopefully when I go lower, I won't have too much of an issue.
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hybrid-Srt2001
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hybrid-Srt2001
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occasional demons
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If you can get the bolts with the ability to return them, ...
Take it to the alignment shop, and see if they can set it to spec with out them. If they say they can't, then give them the bolts.
Or just take it with out them. Any decent shop will only charge you for the settings they can get with in spec. I just went through this with mine. they couldn't get the toe correct on the lh side. When I take it back with a better tie rod end installed they are only going to charge me for a toe set. They didn't charge me for the toe part of the alignment because it couldn't be set to spec. It is close but still out.
Point being if they work with you, you could get the bolts and take it back if needed.
Take it to the alignment shop, and see if they can set it to spec with out them. If they say they can't, then give them the bolts.
Or just take it with out them. Any decent shop will only charge you for the settings they can get with in spec. I just went through this with mine. they couldn't get the toe correct on the lh side. When I take it back with a better tie rod end installed they are only going to charge me for a toe set. They didn't charge me for the toe part of the alignment because it couldn't be set to spec. It is close but still out.
Point being if they work with you, you could get the bolts and take it back if needed.
Bill
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
I just picked them up from chrylser (not dodge), $28 for the set which is roughly the same price as an aftermarket set with shipping....
they look like regular bolts as hybrid said.....and they come in pairs per kit !!!(this is important to know, because some dealers don't know that)..
i will post pictures later...if i need them i will install them, otherwise i will return them or sell them ....
Edit: Pictures of Mopar camber bolts are up now !!!


also,


they look like regular bolts as hybrid said.....and they come in pairs per kit !!!(this is important to know, because some dealers don't know that)..
i will post pictures later...if i need them i will install them, otherwise i will return them or sell them ....
Edit: Pictures of Mopar camber bolts are up now !!!


also,


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hybrid-Srt2001
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Caraudioholic24
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Ok sorry to resurrect but...
I am going from the sportline to pro kit setup with tokico blue struts. The sportlines were just a little to low for my new Kaminari body kit. Anyway does anyone have any pics of them installed in the front and rear. I could never figure out if they went on the top hole or the bottom. I didnt have the sportlines on long enough to get an alignment.
Right now I have them at the top hole in each knuckle but Im not sure if thats right. Also what way side should the nut face front or rear?? Thanks
I am going from the sportline to pro kit setup with tokico blue struts. The sportlines were just a little to low for my new Kaminari body kit. Anyway does anyone have any pics of them installed in the front and rear. I could never figure out if they went on the top hole or the bottom. I didnt have the sportlines on long enough to get an alignment.
Right now I have them at the top hole in each knuckle but Im not sure if thats right. Also what way side should the nut face front or rear?? Thanks
- hansken_yo
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I think they go in the bottom of two holes in the knuckles.

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Caraudioholic24
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occasional demons
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Yeah, what I said. Post 18. Try it with out, but take them along just incase...
Bill
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
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Caraudioholic24
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Caraudioholic24
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Mopar_Korean
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I dont think it matters.
On a side note, I ran camber bolts on my 1st gen after lowering it and they used 2 bolts on each strut. HOWEVER I requested 2.5* of negative camber. They said that if I didnt request that amount of camber they would have been able to bring it back to factory spec.
I beat that 1st gen to an inch of its life with DD duties and autocross and Ive never had them slip.
On a side note, I ran camber bolts on my 1st gen after lowering it and they used 2 bolts on each strut. HOWEVER I requested 2.5* of negative camber. They said that if I didnt request that amount of camber they would have been able to bring it back to factory spec.
I beat that 1st gen to an inch of its life with DD duties and autocross and Ive never had them slip.

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LilSparkPlug
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