Can't get the strut out - Updated with new questions....

Have some questions about how to achive better handling and stopping power using different springs, upgrading to coilovers, questions on swaybars, bushings, different rotors, pads, ect... Having any steering problems or questions about steering racks, tie rods, tie rod ends, ect... ask these questions here.
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latief
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Can't get the strut out - Updated with new questions....

Post by latief » Sat Feb 28, 2009 7:46 pm

I am trying to take apart one of my new 'used" struts becasue the nut on top seems to have shifted to the side, and the whole setup looks awkward....

i am using the damn 10mm socket/ ratchet and spark plug technique, but boy is it tough. that nut will not move and is frozen in place although i compressed the springs......

ideas please!

I have no access to an impact gun..... :banghead:
Last edited by latief on Sun Mar 01, 2009 4:38 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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thttxboy
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Post by thttxboy » Sun Mar 01, 2009 12:33 am

Without an impact gun theres not much more besides getting a friend to help you turn the nut. be sure to use pb blaster or something to help break the nut loose. electric impact works good too.

GreeNeons03
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Post by GreeNeons03 » Sun Mar 01, 2009 1:37 am

I gave this How-to to someone else for something they needed to fix. It should help here too:

Here's how to fix it:

1) Move a trashcan under the window of a room on the second floor or higher of your house or apartment.
2) Go up to that room and open that window.
3) Shout "Fuck you *person or company who sold you the part here* you mother fucker(s)!" as you throw the part down into the trashcan as hard as you can from the window in an attempt to FUBAR it.
4) Close window and go back to living life, playing video games, and/or screwing your girl.

:rofl:
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Donkeypuncher
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Post by Donkeypuncher » Sun Mar 01, 2009 3:35 am

I'm not sure what to do if you want the strut to be usable afterwards. Last time that happened to me I used vice grips to hold the shaft and the nut came off without a problem. Of course the strut was trashed after that.

Have you tried whispering sweet nothings in it's ear?

latief
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Post by latief » Sun Mar 01, 2009 4:45 pm

so i managed to get it out....boy was it tough...broke a socket while doing it ....

anyhow, here are some questions....

1. on the rear strut mount, the opening in the mount is elongated by design. i think it is only the strut mount i messed with that is like that, any idea why ? it ls more of an oval shape...is that normal?

2. is there any chance that a spring could be bent?

the reason why i dismantled this strut was because i found that the nut on top moved to the side a bit, so i was worried that something was bent, but it seems fine although i have my doubts about the spring.

3. the nut that holds the strut and strut mount together starts out easy by hand, then gets super tight and hard to turn. is that normal? i checked it closely, i could not see any signs of cross threading or anything....

4. do electric impact wrenches work on these kind of suspension jobs? or will they be too weak for that ?

thank,

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Post by OB » Sun Mar 01, 2009 5:31 pm

You're gonna have to be more specific about your strut mount question. I'm actually pretty confused about the whole post now that I think of it. Can you get pics of everything you're talking about?

As far as the nut for the top-hat is concerned, it should thread freely like any other nut. If it's binding then there's a problem.
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thttxboy
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Post by thttxboy » Sun Mar 01, 2009 7:55 pm

I use a dewalt electric impact for alot. the only problem is that its bulky so its not good for tight places.

latief
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Post by latief » Sun Mar 01, 2009 9:49 pm

my question relates to the used set of struts i picked up. i was about to install them when i noticed that the main bolt that hold the strut to the mount had shifted, so i tried loosing it up to see if there was any damage to the spring/ strut....

that is where all these issues came from.....

as for the mount opening issue. all the mounts seemed to have a regular circular opening where the the strut-shaft passes through, except for this one had a eclipse shaped opening. i was wondering why is that the case?

i will try to get some pictures later....

thanks,

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thttxboy
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Post by thttxboy » Sun Mar 01, 2009 10:50 pm

If the nut that holds the spring in place inside the top hat has moved I would assume that the top hat was worn and needed to be replaced. The way u talk about the opening though makes me think that there was some kind of damage that caused the opening to look like that.

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Post by OB » Mon Mar 02, 2009 9:30 am

Yes it sounds like the top nut was loose causing the strut shaft/threads to wear out the hole in the top-hat. It should be round like the others. That's probably why the threads are damaged and why the nut wouldn't come off; the shaft may be bent slightly.
-Derek

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latief
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Post by latief » Mon Mar 02, 2009 9:53 am

does anyone have a picture of stock strut mount / preferably the rear ones?
Last edited by latief on Mon Mar 02, 2009 1:11 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Post by occasional demons » Mon Mar 02, 2009 12:33 pm

Bill
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latief
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Post by latief » Mon Mar 02, 2009 1:18 pm

occasional demons wrote:mount plate<
That was awesome, thanks....now the question is how accurate is the picture

http://partimages2.genpt.com/partimages/283325.jpg

Look at the link. the hole in the middle of the mount in the struts looks like it has been elongated. on mine i am not sure if that is how these came from the factory, or was it more of a problem with the strut...

it looks like this .... ( ____ ) as apposed to (_) (similar to strut bolts location that have been slotted) ....either way this is not good, and i anticipate it to cause problems as i think the spring is slightly bent out of shape. :banghead:
Last edited by latief on Mon Mar 02, 2009 1:37 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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hansken_yo
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Post by hansken_yo » Mon Mar 02, 2009 1:33 pm

welcome to the world of buying used suspension parts... :(
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latief
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Post by latief » Mon Mar 02, 2009 1:36 pm

Actually, i have a feeling that this is by design (i mean the the shape of the opening). unless someone slotted it professionally to adjust camber maybe?

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hansken_yo
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Post by hansken_yo » Mon Mar 02, 2009 1:40 pm

This elongation... you are referring to where the strut and knuckle connect on the top of the two bolts? If that is elongated then it has been "slotted" for camber adjustment.
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Post by latief » Mon Mar 02, 2009 1:45 pm

no, in the mount itself.

I guess i will have to take the strut apart again and post some pictures. god i hated dealing with the spring compressor......

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Post by occasional demons » Mon Mar 02, 2009 3:10 pm

I see no good reason for the center hole to be slotted. It will only allow the center line of the damper part of the strut assy to get out of alignment, prolly bending, or stressing the rod.
Bill
Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.

2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap

latief
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Post by latief » Tue Mar 03, 2009 9:00 pm

Behold ........:rockon:

Image
Image

Image
Image

It has been slotted, and that is why the shaft shifted. but the good news is that nothing is bent ....... :thumbup: this is no way as a result of the shaft friction against the mount.....it looks like it has been hit by a dremel or something. i guess it is some sort of custom camber plates (if it worked, it could be a good idea actually) :thumbup:

Image
Image

springs are fine, and struts are fine (ignore the camera strap).....

question. both rear struts rebound at the same slow rate when pressed, their are no oil leaks or anything like that. that indicates that they are acceptable, right?


as for the nuts (holding the strut shaft to the mount -you can't see them in the picture since they are removed), it seems that the issue mentioned earlier in this thread is done by design. both nuts bolt on easily by hand until the reach the middle of the strut-shaft's threads, then they become really hard to move. i guess that is intended to prevent them from moving out of place once installed. what do you guys think ?

i am going to buy a new mount (should i get two?), and two new nuts............

nothing like some good-old detective work....man it so rewarding to work on your own car

thoughts and opinions are welcomed :thumbup:

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Post by OB » Tue Mar 03, 2009 9:45 pm

If I bought a used strut that looked like that I'd be on the hunt for an ass whoopin. That's all I know. That top-hat is shot, I hope you're not planning on using it.
-Derek

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latief
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Post by latief » Tue Mar 03, 2009 9:48 pm

Ordered new ones already.....

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Post by Arro » Tue Mar 03, 2009 9:52 pm

ZOMG they didn't look like that when I installed them! jphillips and I did the install, he also did his own, and he knows what he's doing. It felt solid when I was driving on them, and nothing felt odd when I removed them.

Like OB said, that top hat is shot, and you can't reuse it. You can get a new top hat at most auto parts stores, not expensive.
Drive it like you stole it, and work on it like you married it.
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latief
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Post by latief » Sun Mar 08, 2009 7:30 pm

it just gets worse..... !!!!!


Image

broken strut mount bearing -front !!

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hansken_yo
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Post by hansken_yo » Sun Mar 08, 2009 9:26 pm

That happens when the top hat fails... they kind of go hand in hand.
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latief
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Post by latief » Mon Mar 23, 2009 9:06 am

Update,

so i finally "dropped the car", got the new mounts in, eibach-pro springs and the srt struts... here is the problem.....

the rear sits noticeably lower, yet the front remained roughly at the same height.......ride quality is great in the rear, the fronts are super firm...but not very bouncy....

i am confused. will it settle more? and when?

i'm sure this relates to the fact that these are srt struts.....

anyone have a picture of a neon lowered on srt struts?

I will try and post a picture this evening..

thanks,

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