Ghetto Blaster version 2

Have a question about how to make horsepower going the all motor route, here's where to ask it.
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blue demon02
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Ghetto Blaster version 2

Post by blue demon02 » Sat Mar 28, 2009 8:52 pm

So i made one several years ago and it ran great on my 02 so recently had a request for one for a show car. So had to make it a little nicer and had to blend the runners better. Its not perfectly smooth but I think it will do just fine in a show car.

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I sprayed it real quick with some black paint i had. Going to still spray it again with blue. Per the person getting its request.


Here's a shot of the bottom showing the map sensor mounting. Need to still get the brass fittings for the vavuum sources. Thought i had some but can't find them for the life of me.

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Post by Ntyvirus1 » Sat Mar 28, 2009 9:51 pm

:drool:
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Post by c987long » Tue Apr 07, 2009 8:33 pm

Does this work with my magnum motor? If so pm me with a price and ihave a few other questions

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Post by INVUJerry » Tue Apr 07, 2009 9:01 pm

What do you make the end caps with? Although I have an awesome intake mani, I was thinking about doing this for fun for my 05.
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Post by occasional demons » Tue Apr 07, 2009 9:10 pm

For my blue demon02 inspired GIM, I used a slip on end cap, but cut the top out and glued that on for a more clean/flush look.

I imagine you could go with a larger cap to cut an oval for a slanted end. That is the cheapest/easiest to obtain source of flat ABS stock that I know of.

Edit: I did not reduce the inlet end, as I went straight for a 60 mm TB.
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Post by INVUJerry » Tue Apr 07, 2009 9:30 pm

I'm gonna have to make one for my 98, so I'll have to buy flat ABS to make my TB plate.
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Post by c987long » Wed Apr 08, 2009 8:08 am

did someone also make another version of this?
2001 neon r/t sold
98 sport turbo- built motor 2.0 ngc DOHC, powered by srt ecu and hp tuners
esteinmaier wrote: We all know that an SRT4 wing is the Chuck Norris of car parts.
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Post by blue demon02 » Wed Apr 08, 2009 10:01 am

invujerry wrote:What do you make the end caps with? Although I have an awesome intake mani, I was thinking about doing this for fun for my 05.
I did use ABS end caps for the back side and the front is a 3" to 2" reducer, but because its designed to go on the outside of the 2" pip its actually pretty darn close to 60MM. a 2.5" inch coupler won't fit on it so its probably closer to 2.75" I hacked, and glued it up real good to make it look smoother and cleaner, a lot of the things i did don't need to be done to make it functional i just did it to make it look nice. With enough smoothing and filling it could be made to look like a molded plastic mani and not like a bunch of pieces glued together. But that's a whole lot of work and would take hours and hours of molding to do.
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Post by occasional demons » Wed Apr 08, 2009 10:20 am

c987long wrote:did someone also make another version of this?
There are a few of us. Sullivan is currently working on one.

Invujerry, you could prolly buy a 4 or 5" endcap, and prolly get enough flat stock out of the center to make a flange, or buy one of the aluminum mass airflow adaptes from ebay. IIRC there is a link in BRR's thread, at least what to search for. I just glued the aluminum adapter direclty into the 3" ABS pipe. They do need some aluminum plate welded on the one edge to fit the Mustang TB correctly tho. Just a heads up. A square piece of Lexan (polycarbonate) may work too.
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Post by Fuzzyneon » Sun Apr 19, 2009 9:54 pm

Okay questions
where do you feel the power of a stock plastic intake
you jbweld everything ?
would need a dremel right?
stock intake can it be used?
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Post by occasional demons » Mon Apr 20, 2009 9:51 am

Fuzzyneon wrote:Okay questions
where do you feel the power of a stock plastic intake
Prolly up to 5000 rpm?

you jbweld everything ?
Loctite Plastic Weld (Lowes/Home Depot)
Where I used JB it cracked / fell off in my crash
Plastic weld wasn't fazed.

would need a dremel right?
Dremel or die grinder if you have a good air compressor

stock intake can it be used?

The 1gn IM is the easiest choice, as all the runners are in the same line, and there are no seams. I would still be interested in doing a 2gn style, but it would be a challenge. A square plenum would be the easiest route for those. Or a tube cut so there is a flat plane to glue the runners to, since they are offset. The expense of materials will be more for a 2gn. I recommend finding a spare if you go 2gn, incase you fubar it. At least you can drive the car while you are having fun building it. :D
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Post by Fuzzyneon » Mon Apr 20, 2009 2:08 pm

thanks ill be doing this very soon but more super ghetto do to lack of funds !
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Post by occasional demons » Mon Apr 20, 2009 3:06 pm

Meh, you just need patience and a steady hand while cutting the tube holes and the IM runners much more than you need funds. :D

Shop around, unless you already have an IM. You can get them for $10 to $20 on ebay/forums. The 2gn's are around $50 to $90. IIRC there was one (2gn) on the other org a while ago for $10 IDK if it is still there...

I would sell you a length of ABS tube for a buck, but the shipping would prolly make it just as cheap to buy the 10' piece. It really isn't that expensive.
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Post by Fuzzyneon » Mon Apr 20, 2009 4:03 pm

im gonna go junkyard a 1st gen intake theres aplace 5m from me with a couple first gens gonna go to home depot price out the fittings and pvc i need to find someone with a dremel and cutting stuff though i dont wanna have to buy that
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Post by occasional demons » Mon Apr 20, 2009 8:34 pm

A hack saw works for the runners, but it is a PITA to get them perfectly even. A bandsaw would prolly be a little better. I hacksawed mine, then took it to work. They have a large disc/belt sander. It worked nicely getting all the tubes even.
If you use the full length of the runners like I did, I recommend removing the current IM to mock it up for clearances. The large connector on the starter needs modded so it will turn to clear the ABS tube. Or a ring terminal/s could be used.
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Post by blue demon02 » Mon Apr 27, 2009 3:40 pm

occasional demons wrote:A hack saw works for the runners, but it is a PITA to get them perfectly even. A bandsaw would prolly be a little better. I hacksawed mine, then took it to work. They have a large disc/belt sander. It worked nicely getting all the tubes even.
If you use the full length of the runners like I did, I recommend removing the current IM to mock it up for clearances. The large connector on the starter needs modded so it will turn to clear the ABS tube. Or a ring terminal/s could be used.
What I did was wraped the runners with masking tape at the point i wanted to cut, gave me a good stright line to cut from. (I used a jig saw) But i do agree that the band saw would be best. I can't even tell you how much i use my dremmel. If you don't have one get one, single best tool, i own. Mine broke recently after about 4 years of hard use and I didn't even think twice about buying another one.
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Post by onewickedkid05 » Thu Jun 11, 2009 9:35 pm

so wait couple questions

Are these designed for stock motors or turbo applications

How exactly are you making these your modifying a current Manifold or are you guys doing it from scratch.
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Post by occasional demons » Thu Jun 11, 2009 10:29 pm

Most ppl would not recommend them for boost, but I have seen 2gn plastic IM's on boosted applications. I guess if you aren't looking for massive boost...

Most, if not all GBI's are made from 1gn IM's.

Basically the plenum, and whatever amount of runners you choose, are cut off and discarded. Then a new plenum is glued to the runners with Plastic Weld. (two part epoxy) Loc tite brand is good for 5000 psi tensile strength or some insane amount. I think if there was a burst panel in the end, you might get away with more boost. I think if the runners are glued well enough to the ABS tube, and the ends are good, it would easily hold boost. A back fire, is another matter. Thus a burst panel might save the GBI.
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Post by onewickedkid05 » Thu Jun 11, 2009 11:03 pm

well no reason i ask is because im not running boost i wanted to know if it benefited at all better then or the same as like an RT header but for a sohc. Will i see gains
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Post by occasional demons » Fri Jun 12, 2009 7:29 am

With the oem TB, from my experience, no.
I made mine specifically to match to 60/65mm TB inlet. I had the 52mm OEM on to start, and there may have been a little more torque, But honestly, I could feel no difference. With the tube/TB @60mm, no bottle neck, yes there is a seat of the pants pull, and FWIW I kept a new(er) F150 V8 from gaining on me from 25 to 100 mph, we were side by side the whole way. The only gains he/she? made were when i shifted, and it would pull back in the same position. (It was 4:30 am and dark. Don't fuck with me in the morning.)
That is with the 2000 exhaust carry over that is lucky to be 2" OD.
The only other mods I have are a Mag. exhaust header, and '02 Mag cam.
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Post by onewickedkid05 » Fri Jun 12, 2009 10:35 am

well i have the 60mm mpx throttle body dont have a mag head though maybe ill need to get one and a cam first....You dont need the mag header to run the mag cam correct? just a little more beneficial
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Post by occasional demons » Fri Jun 12, 2009 11:28 am

The Mag header is just a small step up from the standard mani. (on a standard head) You can swap in a Mag cam into the standard head. I do not have a Mag head either, it is basically the only thing missing engine wise in my setup. Besides the IM obviously. Just remember, you are not going to see huge gains. The full R/T setup is only 18 hp more, and has the benefit of lower gears. Granted 18 hp in our cars does enhace the power to weight ratio relatively nicely. But it isn't as nice as FI.
I have a true benz 2.25" exhaust I just need to find time to install. I will prolly post it up in the product reveiw section once I get to it.

I guess we should prolly get this back on topic tho. :D
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Post by onewickedkid05 » Fri Jun 12, 2009 12:30 pm

yeah but to use the cam from a mag in a nonmag dont u have to update things or will it drop right in
??? does that actually help power.....O k back on topic now
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Post by occasional demons » Fri Jun 12, 2009 5:43 pm

PM'ed.
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Post by newlitemotorist » Sun Jun 14, 2009 1:58 pm

Quick question here,

i own an 01 rt and i am pretty sure my intake butterflies are malfuntioning because my car has a completely unpredictable power band. One minute it has all sorts of pep and the next (at the same throttle position) it will be a dog. Ths happens at part throttle and at full throttle. I can hear the valves open one minute at full throttle and then i wont the next minute.

At first i thought about simply taking out the butterflies but i dont want the dip in torque so my question is....would makeing a good long runner ghetto blaster like this be a good option over my existing magnum intake without the butterflies?

Another factor is that I am getting a 2000 afx-r which will not control the magnum intake anyways so whats the better route?

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Post by occasional demons » Fri Jun 19, 2009 7:56 pm

Keep the Mag IM.

Pull the relay, jump pins 55 and 56. The MTV should function.

If you are going with the AF/X, then wire the butterflies via one of the how-to's. Just pull the PDC apart, and splice into wire 58 VT/OR to power the relay via the WOT/RPM switch(s). Pin 54 is already grounded.

This way it looks a little neater, and the wiring is already there. Plus giong back to stock is an easier option.

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Image

The relay itself may also be failing.

I think there is a fuel/or timing boost at the 4900ish opening point. Because I have the R/T PCM, but not the IM, and it seems to get a kick in the ass, right around 5000 rpm. It is not subtle either.




More links in this thread, a lot of GBI info:
viewtopic.php?t=16142
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Post by newlitemotorist » Sat Jun 20, 2009 10:31 pm

occasional demons wrote:Keep the Mag IM.

Pull the relay, jump pins 55 and 56. The MTV should function.

If you are going with the AF/X, then wire the butterflies via one of the how-to's. Just pull the PDC apart, and splice into wire 58 VT/OR to power the relay via the WOT/RPM switch(s). Pin 54 is already grounded.

This way it looks a little neater, and the wiring is already there. Plus giong back to stock is an easier option.

Image

Image

The relay itself may also be failing.

I think there is a fuel/or timing boost at the 4900ish opening point. Because I have the R/T PCM, but not the IM, and it seems to get a kick in the ass, right around 5000 rpm. It is not subtle either.




More links in this thread, a lot of GBI info:
viewtopic.php?t=16142
Hey thanks for the info.....I will keep the intake! Sorry if this is thread jacking.

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Post by Car6on14 » Thu Jul 09, 2009 5:17 pm

how much more power can 1 to expect to gain?
05 Sxt 5spd w/ SRT body styling
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Post by occasional demons » Thu Jul 09, 2009 11:15 pm

Car6on14 wrote:how much more power can 1 to expect to gain?
Posts 19 and 20 above.
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Post by blue demon02 » Mon Jul 20, 2009 10:48 am

occasional demons wrote:The Mag header is just a small step up from the standard mani. (on a standard head) You can swap in a Mag cam into the standard head. I do not have a Mag head either, it is basically the only thing missing engine wise in my setup. Besides the IM obviously. Just remember, you are not going to see huge gains. The full R/T setup is only 18 hp more, and has the benefit of lower gears. Granted 18 hp in our cars does enhace the power to weight ratio relatively nicely. But it isn't as nice as FI.
I have a true benz 2.25" exhaust I just need to find time to install. I will prolly post it up in the product reveiw section once I get to it.

I guess we should prolly get this back on topic tho. :D
OK, i'm going to have to disagree with some on a little of whats been said on this thread. Even if you have a mostly stock motor a G/B will be worth it. My motor ran sooooo much better with it on then with the stock manifold. IDK what Dodge was thinking when they designed the manifold but its worse then any other 4 cylinder intake manifold i have ever seen. The mag manifold is ok, but after looking at some dyno numbers with bigger cams and larg port heads (I.E bigger then a magnum, and yes even a stock non mag head can be ported bigger then the ports on a mag head) it realy doesn't flow all that well. What i don't understand is all Dodge had to do to make there motors have as much if not more power was to make the intake ports a lot bigger (biggest restriction once you put on a mag head) and put on something resembling a medium cam. (comp 400) With the mag manifold they could have gone a lot bigger and still had good power down low. The intake ports are just tooo small. IF AMM ever finishes that manifold for SGT brad it should be insane as far as power. my buddy who is making insane power numbers with a none mag head as ports so big he can't even bolt up a plastic manifold to his head cause the ports are so big the O-rings used as gaskets are smaller then his ports. The only manifold he could port match to his head was an Indy.

OH, and don't just throw in a Mag cam on a stock head it will break valve springs, you might get lucky and not break any but i wouldn't chance it.

As far as power gains with a ghetto blaster? not realy sure (neer dyoed it but on a stock motor your mostly going to get more up top and the motor will run smoother. if you have a bigger cam i can't stress enough that this would be a night and day differance from a stock manifold. I had a ported head, a TTI LTH (see OBX), and a comp 400 and i was getting the normal rich fuel condition code that the neon is known for with a bigger cam. As soon as i put on the Ghetto blaster not only did the mid 4000RPM power dip go away but so did the code, and the car ran sooooo smooth, felt like it belonged that way from the factory.

Oh, yea i forgot to ask the question why you got a 2.25 exhaust from tru bendz when our cars from the factory come with 2.25 mandrel bent exhausts?
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