Junkyard woes... help me remove the axles of a boneyard car

Arro · Post by **Arro** » Wed Apr 01, 2009 1:25 pm

I've been trolling the junkyards looking for things I want/need. Ok so I found a 2GN that I want to pull axles off off of a manual trans car.

I had my friend put it in first when I tried to remove the passenger side, even had them press the brakes down (still got some pedal grab), but every time I tried to turn the breaker bar to take off the hub nut, it would defeat the brakes and turn the engine.

I went to the other side, tried the same thing (this time with the car in reverse gear), and no luck again... kept defeating the brakes and turning the engine.

So here's my ideas...

First, bring some liquid penetrant, like Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster. Anyone know which one works best? I'm hoping if I let it soak for ten, maybe fifteen mins, it'll help.

Second, I'm bringing a small metal mallet, so instead of pushing/pulling the breaker bar, I'm planning on smacking it to break it loose.

Third, if that fails, maybe I could put the car on the ground... the wheels are all on it. Like most junkyards, they stick the cars up on makeshift jackstands (usually a stack of tireless wheels). Maybe if I bring my big jack along with my wood block (which I use to jack up my lifted truck) I can take out the makeshift jackstands and get the car back on the ground... maybe then it will be able to break loose. But I'm not sure, because the ground is gravel, and it still might slip.

Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

jT · Post by jT » Wed Apr 01, 2009 4:52 pm

how much $ are you saving by getting the axles from a junk yard in whatever condition they might be in versus going to autozone and getting a set?

id rather get a brand new pair for $70 each at advance auto parts and know what condition they are in.. and not to mention saving myself the hassle of what youre trying to do

Arro · Post by **Arro** » Wed Apr 01, 2009 5:15 pm

they don't cost 70, they cost more like 140 to 170 for the side I need. The manual axles are less common and cost more than th atx parts. I can get them at junkyards for 16 bux, and on half-off days, even less.

Anyways thanks for answering my question *sarcasm*. I need help with removal ideas, not advice on how best to spend my money, thanx.

Post by **occasional demons** » Wed Apr 01, 2009 5:23 pm

Fab a bar to bolt to the wheel studs.
Use it to keep the hub from turning.
You could prolly get away with one hole, and let the bar hit the other stud.
I usually just slide it between two of them, but being in the air it may slip off. Bolting one on would prevent some pain.

Happy wrenching.

Edit: Belting one down, and you don't care about the pain as much.

fixitmattman · Post by **fixitmattman** » Wed Apr 01, 2009 5:42 pm

Pry bar and breaker bar.

jT · Post by jT » Thu Apr 02, 2009 12:17 am

Arro wrote:they don't cost 70, they cost more like 140 to 170 for the side I need.

sorry, you're wrong. i bothered to check myself before putting up a price. $69.99 for manual or automatic. same price. left or right. abs or no abs.

but go have fun at the junkyard

Arro · Post by **Arro** » Thu Apr 02, 2009 5:42 pm

Really? I got this directly off of the Autozone website, and then saw it on the computer screen at my local store this afternoon:

Application: 2000 Dodge Neon 2.0L
Autozone part# 8780, reman cv axle
With manual transmission
Right hand side (Sitting inside vehicle)

Price:
$114.99
+ Core:
$40.00

Total:
$154.99

Maybe you're getting it somewhere else? Either way, it's not $16.00, is it.

jT · Post by jT » Thu Apr 02, 2009 6:37 pm

jT wrote:$70 each at advance auto parts

..not autozone.

http://tinyurl.com/cqlmqm

hybrid-Srt2001 · Post by **hybrid-Srt2001** » Thu Apr 02, 2009 6:41 pm

last i checked they were 70 also.....

Donkeypuncher · Post by **Donkeypuncher** » Thu Apr 02, 2009 6:46 pm

That's pretty overpriced, usually autozone is good about axle prices. You can get the remanufactured axles for about $65 at napa, the new ones are $125. Junkyard axles are a gamble, no telling what kind of abuse they've been through.

INVUJerry · Post by **INVUJerry** » Thu Apr 02, 2009 7:43 pm

Erm, just stick a screw driver in the rotor, that's what I did, it's easy as pie. No rotor? Find one, you're in a junkyard.

Good lord 2gn axles are expensive as shit.

heydockyle · Post by **heydockyle** » Thu Apr 02, 2009 8:51 pm

Auto axles and manual axles are the same... My Drivers side is out of a 2000 automatic.

INVUJerry · Post by **INVUJerry** » Thu Apr 02, 2009 9:49 pm

The drivers side is the same, I'm 90% sure the passenger is different.

own3d5974 · Post by **own3d5974** » Thu Apr 02, 2009 11:20 pm

Arro wrote:Really? I got this directly off of the Autozone website, and then saw it on the computer screen at my local store this afternoon:

Application: 2000 Dodge Neon 2.0L
Autozone part# 8780, reman cv axle
With manual transmission
Right hand side (Sitting inside vehicle)

Price:
$114.99
+ Core:
$40.00

Total:
$154.99

Maybe you're getting it somewhere else? Either way, it's not $16.00, is it.

i think you are supposed to subtract the 40 for turning in the old axle

Post by **occasional demons** » Thu Apr 02, 2009 11:37 pm

Meh, you still pay tax on the core. Friggin government.
The BS part about it is even if you have core in hand at purchase time/point, they still are supposed to charge you for it, then add tax to the receipt on top of the tax for the part you're buying and give you the credit for the core. That's why I like to buy as much stuff that requires no core.

I don't mind paying tax on goods received, but on something I giving up? Or more like paying tax on ransom.

/rant.

Arro · Post by **Arro** » Fri Apr 03, 2009 12:35 pm

own3d5974 wrote: i think you are supposed to subtract the 40 for turning in the old axle

I wish that were true but no. I work at AZ. And that "Total" line was copied directly off of the website, too. If you have your core, it's the lower amount.

And Autozone isn't the cheapest but certainly not the most expensive. Like I said before, I did look it up. And yeah, the tax on the core shit really blowz, I agree.

jT wrote:
jT wrote:$70 each at advance auto parts
..not autozone.

http://tinyurl.com/cqlmqm

"Sorry, there is no store availability for GSP CV Axle Shaft Assembly within 50 miles of 92543 "

Sorry man, unfortunately Advance is fail for my area.

Donkeypuncher wrote:That's pretty overpriced, usually autozone is good about axle prices. You can get the remanufactured axles for about $65 at napa, the new ones are $125. Junkyard axles are a gamble, no telling what kind of abuse they've been through.

NAPA Reman: $64.99 Core $80.20

Really fuggen expensive core. Since I don't have a core....

Yeah I think for 16 bux, I better take this junkyard one if I can.

Yes, the passenger side IS different between ATX and MTX, which is why I'm after it in the first place.

This car is actually in pretty good shape... it looks like it was babied by the owner... it's a low low low base model, even has crank windows. Everything looks like it was babied by someone. The car does indeed have rotors and brakes on it, or it did last weekend. I can't stick a screwdriver in the rotor tho... not sure how that's supposed to work.

The biggest problem is it's so high off the ground in the yards... they use two tireless wheels stacked as jackstands, and you can't bring in a jack per the rules. So the centerline of the hub is pretty high off the ground.

Post by **racer12306** » Fri Apr 03, 2009 12:52 pm

2000 Dodge Neon, Manual Trans, Passenger Side Axle, Brand New

Rock Auto: $60 at your door step (5% discount code: 15520691326401)
Auto Parts Giant: $85.54 at your door step (free shipping over $50)

Donkeypuncher · Post by **Donkeypuncher** » Fri Apr 03, 2009 1:10 pm

Or you could just use a junkyard axle as the core, especially if it's dirt cheap.

NickKo · Post by **NickKo** » Fri Apr 03, 2009 4:17 pm

invujerry wrote:Erm, just stick a screw driver in the rotor, that's what I did, it's easy as pie. No rotor? Find one, you're in a junkyard.

AGREED

- Nick

Post by **occasional demons** » Fri Apr 03, 2009 5:19 pm

Arro wrote:[. I can't stick a screwdriver in the rotor tho... not sure how that's supposed to work.

just stick it into the holes beween the internal fins. Between the two friction surfaces.

___________________________
ooooooooooooooooooooooooooo<
-------------------------------------------
^
Crude but you get the idea.

Arro · Post by **Arro** » Fri Apr 03, 2009 9:54 pm

occasional demons wrote:
Arro wrote:[. I can't stick a screwdriver in the rotor tho... not sure how that's supposed to work.
just stick it into the holes beween the internal fins. Between the two friction surfaces.

___________________________
ooooooooooooooooooooooooooo<
-------------------------------------------
^
Crude but you get the idea.

Ahhhh NOW it makes sense, the screwdriver will hit the caliper.

K gonna give that a shot, thanx

FYI, I can't justify spending 60 bux when I can spend 16 and inspect the CV joint myself. It's an axle, not an engine, and my car isn't a horsepower monster either. As long as the CV joint looks good under the boot, I should be fine.

But of course some of you will always worry about safety even when it's not an issue lol.

Thanx to those who helped....

INVUJerry · Post by **INVUJerry** » Sat Apr 04, 2009 1:31 am

Heh, yeah I was a little tired when I wrote that, definately, put it in the vents on the rotor in the caliper. I was certain when I was tightening the axle nut down to 90 ft/lb or whatever it is that I'd break my sweet Harbor Freight screw driver, but it survived!