Solid lifters for a 2.0 neon?

[SXT87]

Does anyone know if the BLE solid lifters for a 2.4 SRT-4 motor (DOHC) would work in a 2.0 (SOHC) neon motor? Or if there's a company that sells solid lifters for a 2.0 SOHC engine? Or even what the difference is between the OEM dimensions for each of the motor's lifters? I'm just wondering if anyone has tried this before. Thanks.
-Kristen

[Fuzzyneon]

im not 100 percent sure but im 99% sure (lol) 2.4 lifters will not fit the 2.0 and i have no clue about the answer to your other questions.

[occasional demons]

Definately will not work. The lash adjusters are in the head on 2.4's/2.0 DOHC and in the rocker arms for 2.0 SOHC. The DOHC use the same ones as the 2.2's used in the "older" FWD cars.

[SXT87]

Ok, well thank you for your help. I was just looking for stronger lifters and something that would get rid of the usual lifter tic noise haha.

[occasional demons]

Ok, well thank you for your help. I was just looking for stronger lifters and something that would get rid of the usual lifter tic noise haha.

Solid lifters would be just as noisy. (if not louder on a neon. )

[SXT87]

Ok, well thank you for your help. I was just looking for stronger lifters and something that would get rid of the usual lifter tic noise haha.

Solid lifters would be just as noisy. (if not louder on a neon. )

Ok well then I'm just retarded .. but at least I'll have my mind at ease as far as the lifters being stronger than stock and sounding extra noisy for a good reason and not a bad one. haha. My neon's ticking doesn't sound as healthy compared to other neon ticking. It's a bit louder and it's more drawn-out and rattly sounding.

[occasional demons]

Looking at your mileage in your garage, if nothing has been done to the head, your valve guides are prolly toast.

At 112,000 I had my exhaust guides replaced. The valve train is much quieter now.

Edit: For overall durability of the valvetrain, hydraulics are usually the better choice. If the lash gets too excessive with solid lifters, it can create some vicious shock loads on the rocker arms due to the cam lobe ramp smacking the follower. Even worn hydraulics will absorb some of the shock.
Not that you're retarded, but possibly misinformed. Solid lifters in these motors (DOHC version) are best for all out competion engines. I think in a DD they would drive you out of your mind. While they have a "Cool Factor" they are best in V8 apps. They just sound sweeter there.

Push rod engines, I think are a bit more forgiving to solid lifters. (Could be that's what they were originally designed with.)
The 1.6 liter Pugeot engine in my '83 Omni was a push rod solid lifter engine. Every 10,000 miles or so the rocker cover was off, to adjust the lash. Otherwise it was thrash time.
It may not have been the best engine in the world, but it would spank my H.O. 2.2 Omni in top speed by 10 mph.

[SXT87]

Looking at your mileage in your garage, if nothing has been done to the head, your valve guides are prolly toast.

At 112,000 I had my exhaust guides replaced. The valve train is much quieter now.

Edit: For overall durability of the valvetrain, hydraulics are usually the better choice. If the lash gets too excessive with solid lifters, it can create some vicious shock loads on the rocker arms due to the cam lobe ramp smacking the follower. Even worn hydraulics will absorb some of the shock.
Not that you're retarded, but possibly misinformed. Solid lifters in these motors (DOHC version) are best for all out competion engines. I think in a DD they would drive you out of your mind. While they have a "Cool Factor" they are best in V8 apps. They just sound sweeter there.

Push rod engines, I think are a bit more forgiving to solid lifters. (Could be that's what they were originally designed with.)
The 1.6 liter Pugeot engine in my '83 Omni was a push rod solid lifter engine. Every 10,000 miles or so the rocker cover was off, to adjust the lash. Otherwise it was thrash time.
It may not have been the best engine in the world, but it would spank my H.O. 2.2 Omni in top speed by 10 mph.

Haha that's pretty sweet. Yeah, my car has a lot of miles on it, but the motor is kind of new. I'm not exactly sure what the mileage is, but it's probably somewhere around 35k on it now. I bought the motor with about 20k miles on it in late 2007. Even so, you could be right. Thanks for your input! Do you know of any other possibilities it could be? I'd like to work on the car myself, but i'm not sure how to go about it...i'm no mechanic lol. I'm trying to learn though. Plus I don't trust Dodge dealer's mechanics in my area.. I know of one dealership that sometimes doesn't even change the oil filters in cars after an oil change

[occasional demons]

This is the only other thing, besides bad lash adjusters, or not enough oil getting to the lash adjusters.

You may want to copy and paste into Word, or similiar, to change the font size, for easier reading.

This is for "click" or "tick tick tick tick"-prone 2.0-liter 2nd-gen SOHC engines only... I recommend doing this right before an oil change to make it easier. Always remember to remove the negative battery terminal and never reconnect power until you are done.

... And just remember, nothing is more embarassing than starting up your car at work on a cool morning or evening and all of your co-workers making jokes about how you have a sewing machine stuck under your hood!

The purpose of this is to reduce wear and noise in the valvetrain due to **** engineering and assembly at the factory, by modifying two things: the way oil flows between the rockers, and eliminating EXCESSIVE spacing/gaps between the rockers and their corresponding spacers.

1. Remove your valve cover with a 10mm socket.
2. Inspect all of your rockers, head, and cam lobes for buildup, excessive wear, etc.
3. Find the 10 different bolts that hold the flat rectangular spacers on top of the rocker-arm pivot shafts... there should be 5 on the exhaust shaft and 5 on the intake. They are located on the ends and inbetween each rocker arm.
4. Clean the head of each bolt and mark it's position with a paint marker... with a slight mark on the corresponding spacer as well. This is for later referrence when everything is re-assembled so you know where you are going to re-torque your bolts to without stripping them out.
5. Grab a hold of each rocker arm and try sliding it side-to-side on the arm (driver's side to passenger's side and back again)... you will probably find that some of them "slap" back and forth against the spacers, and now you can see where your excessive cold-start "slapping," or "ticking" comes from.

SOLUTION:

6. Using a 10mm socket, remove ONE of the bolts and the spacer that it was holding down. DO NOT remove more than one spacer at a time, and only remove another spacer after the previous spacer has been previously bolted back down and torque'd correctly. This will prevent misalignment of the rocker shafts. I recommend removing the CENTER bolt and spacer first so you will be able to slightly realign them when you bolt them back on to your motor.
7. With one spacer out, notice the edges of the spacer that the rocker arms slide and rotate against. On these edges, you will want to find the edge on each side that corners itself against the rocker and the shaft. Take a file and slightly rub the metal away at a 45-degree angle to remove about 0.5mm of metal from these two edges. Basically, you are creating a slight gap for extra oil to travel through while the rocker-arms are actuating later.
8. Once you've cleaned all the shavings off of the spacer, saturate it in oil and re-install it back onto the shaft in the same position it was in before you removed it (this positioning will apply ONLY to the center spacer on the intake side and the center spacer on the exhaust side).
9. Now, working your way outward, remove the spacers one at a time and file them the same way on both sides removing 0.5mm or less from the same corners on either side, and reinstall them before removing the next spacer... You want to contantly work your way outward, taking one spacer from the left, then one from the right, etc etc. As you re-install the four outer spacers on each arm, you want to inspect the gap that the rocker arms will be "riding" in, between the corresponding spacers. If the gaps are too wide, the rocker arm will move back and forth and "slap" up against the spacers while the engine is running. A little bit of space is okay and in fact necessary... if the spacers are reinstalled and the spacers are too tight against and "pinching" the rocker to restrict it's movement, you will create excessive heat and have engine damage and failure! The point is that you may have to slide or turn some of these spacers in towards the center of the engine as you reinstall them, slightly closer than their original position before you started. You want to leave a small gap for each rocker to "ride" in. I found more "play" in my rockers on the passenger-side before I started, and had to work the outer spacers on that side to the center slightly more, to reduce the amount of "walking" that the rockers were doing on the shaft.

After you are done, you should be able to grab a hold of each rocker and wiggle it slightly, hearing a small click as it slaps back and forth against each spacer. You should NOT hear a loud "SNAP, BAM," or anything like that, or see a lot of excessive movement back and forth... if you do, something is wrong with your engine. Remember, the point of doing all of this was for two reasons: First, to allow slightly more oil to creep over the rocker shaft into the side-seems of the rockers while the motor is running. Second, to slightly close the gaps between the one or two rockers that you find that simply have just too much space to slide back and forth in. The extra passage of oil from the corner-edges that you removed will also act as a hydraulic cushion as your rockers move side-to-side and prevent them for premature failure or excessive metal/metal wear, and "clicking."

I did this to my car 500 miles ago and it runs great, and I have not had a single "tick tick tick" on a cold start ever since. Basically, the guys at the factory just don't pay close enough attention when installing these or properly gapping anything. I personally think that the spacers could have been a few thousandths of an inch wider, but luckily there is enough room in the bolt holes to walk them in to slightly re-align them as described above. Anyway, for those of you who try this, you'll find it much easier than it sounds and if you pay attention and do everything right, I'm sure you'll be as pleased as I am with it.

[SXT87]

This is the only other thing, besides bad lash adjusters, or not enough oil getting to the lash adjusters.

You may want to copy and paste into Word, or similiar, to change the font size, for easier reading.

This is for "click" or "tick tick tick tick"-prone 2.0-liter 2nd-gen SOHC engines only... I recommend doing this right before an oil change to make it easier. Always remember to remove the negative battery terminal and never reconnect power until you are done.

... And just remember, nothing is more embarassing than starting up your car at work on a cool morning or evening and all of your co-workers making jokes about how you have a sewing machine stuck under your hood!

The purpose of this is to reduce wear and noise in the valvetrain due to **** engineering and assembly at the factory, by modifying two things: the way oil flows between the rockers, and eliminating EXCESSIVE spacing/gaps between the rockers and their corresponding spacers.

1. Remove your valve cover with a 10mm socket.
2. Inspect all of your rockers, head, and cam lobes for buildup, excessive wear, etc.
3. Find the 10 different bolts that hold the flat rectangular spacers on top of the rocker-arm pivot shafts... there should be 5 on the exhaust shaft and 5 on the intake. They are located on the ends and inbetween each rocker arm.
4. Clean the head of each bolt and mark it's position with a paint marker... with a slight mark on the corresponding spacer as well. This is for later referrence when everything is re-assembled so you know where you are going to re-torque your bolts to without stripping them out.
5. Grab a hold of each rocker arm and try sliding it side-to-side on the arm (driver's side to passenger's side and back again)... you will probably find that some of them "slap" back and forth against the spacers, and now you can see where your excessive cold-start "slapping," or "ticking" comes from.

SOLUTION:

6. Using a 10mm socket, remove ONE of the bolts and the spacer that it was holding down. DO NOT remove more than one spacer at a time, and only remove another spacer after the previous spacer has been previously bolted back down and torque'd correctly. This will prevent misalignment of the rocker shafts. I recommend removing the CENTER bolt and spacer first so you will be able to slightly realign them when you bolt them back on to your motor.
7. With one spacer out, notice the edges of the spacer that the rocker arms slide and rotate against. On these edges, you will want to find the edge on each side that corners itself against the rocker and the shaft. Take a file and slightly rub the metal away at a 45-degree angle to remove about 0.5mm of metal from these two edges. Basically, you are creating a slight gap for extra oil to travel through while the rocker-arms are actuating later.
8. Once you've cleaned all the shavings off of the spacer, saturate it in oil and re-install it back onto the shaft in the same position it was in before you removed it (this positioning will apply ONLY to the center spacer on the intake side and the center spacer on the exhaust side).
9. Now, working your way outward, remove the spacers one at a time and file them the same way on both sides removing 0.5mm or less from the same corners on either side, and reinstall them before removing the next spacer... You want to contantly work your way outward, taking one spacer from the left, then one from the right, etc etc. As you re-install the four outer spacers on each arm, you want to inspect the gap that the rocker arms will be "riding" in, between the corresponding spacers. If the gaps are too wide, the rocker arm will move back and forth and "slap" up against the spacers while the engine is running. A little bit of space is okay and in fact necessary... if the spacers are reinstalled and the spacers are too tight against and "pinching" the rocker to restrict it's movement, you will create excessive heat and have engine damage and failure! The point is that you may have to slide or turn some of these spacers in towards the center of the engine as you reinstall them, slightly closer than their original position before you started. You want to leave a small gap for each rocker to "ride" in. I found more "play" in my rockers on the passenger-side before I started, and had to work the outer spacers on that side to the center slightly more, to reduce the amount of "walking" that the rockers were doing on the shaft.

After you are done, you should be able to grab a hold of each rocker and wiggle it slightly, hearing a small click as it slaps back and forth against each spacer. You should NOT hear a loud "SNAP, BAM," or anything like that, or see a lot of excessive movement back and forth... if you do, something is wrong with your engine. Remember, the point of doing all of this was for two reasons: First, to allow slightly more oil to creep over the rocker shaft into the side-seems of the rockers while the motor is running. Second, to slightly close the gaps between the one or two rockers that you find that simply have just too much space to slide back and forth in. The extra passage of oil from the corner-edges that you removed will also act as a hydraulic cushion as your rockers move side-to-side and prevent them for premature failure or excessive metal/metal wear, and "clicking."

I did this to my car 500 miles ago and it runs great, and I have not had a single "tick tick tick" on a cold start ever since. Basically, the guys at the factory just don't pay close enough attention when installing these or properly gapping anything. I personally think that the spacers could have been a few thousandths of an inch wider, but luckily there is enough room in the bolt holes to walk them in to slightly re-align them as described above. Anyway, for those of you who try this, you'll find it much easier than it sounds and if you pay attention and do everything right, I'm sure you'll be as pleased as I am with it.

Ok, cool. Thanks a lot for your help!