Thanks
Wiring Interior LEDs (Alternator's shot...)
- 2005.Neon.SXT
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Wiring Interior LEDs (Alternator's shot...)
Alright, I got four 9.5" LED Flexible Strips from Oznium that I ordered and have in my possession. Waiting till tomorrow to install them, but I was wondering if someone could help confirm something. That orange wire under the center console is something I am able to tap into for power from the switch, correct? But should I be ok with all 4 strips drawing power from it? Should I put an inline fuse or something in? And if so, how big of a fuse? Other than that question, I know everything else on how to install it... just am not sure if I'd be drawing too much juice from that wire. I have the same setup with AutoZone LED strips, but all four are tapped into the defroster (metal tip crimped on the power wire and slid into the back of the plug, no wire tapped).
Thanks
Thanks
Last edited by 2005.Neon.SXT on Sat May 16, 2009 4:34 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Mopar00Neon
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The orange wire under the console is for the ATx shifter indicator light. Its fused with the rest of the instrument cluster lighting. A couple of LED strips will be fine. It will be hot whenever you have the lights on. Basically whenever the cluster lights up, there will be power on the orange wire.
He is unworthy of the name of man who is ignorant of the fact that the diagonal of a square is incommensurable with its side.
-brian
2007 F-150
2006 Mitsubishi Outlander
2004 F-350
2000 Dodge Neon
1957 Chevy truck
1989 Chevy 1500

-brian
2007 F-150
2006 Mitsubishi Outlander
2004 F-350
2000 Dodge Neon
1957 Chevy truck
1989 Chevy 1500

- 2005.Neon.SXT
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Mopar00Neon
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Thats affirm.2005.Neon.SXT wrote:Oh ok. So you're saying that in order for the switch to even turn the LEDs on, I'd have to at least have my parking lights on?
That will probably save me confusion tomorrow. I'd go to turn them on to see if it works and it doesn't. Thanks again
He is unworthy of the name of man who is ignorant of the fact that the diagonal of a square is incommensurable with its side.
-brian
2007 F-150
2006 Mitsubishi Outlander
2004 F-350
2000 Dodge Neon
1957 Chevy truck
1989 Chevy 1500

-brian
2007 F-150
2006 Mitsubishi Outlander
2004 F-350
2000 Dodge Neon
1957 Chevy truck
1989 Chevy 1500

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Caraudioholic24
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- 2005.Neon.SXT
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... I hear that enough. Don't speak Radio terminology to me, I hate it >.<Mopar00Neon wrote:Thats affirm.2005.Neon.SXT wrote:Oh ok. So you're saying that in order for the switch to even turn the LEDs on, I'd have to at least have my parking lights on?
That will probably save me confusion tomorrow. I'd go to turn them on to see if it works and it doesn't. Thanks again
Thanks though
Paid message huh? Didn't have to waste money on this thread...Caraudioholic24 wrote:Im Caraudioholic24 and I paid for this message.
I concur with the above said statements!!
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Caraudioholic24
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Mopar00Neon
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2005.Neon.SXT wrote:... I hear that enough. Don't speak Radio terminology to me, I hate it >.<Mopar00Neon wrote:Thats affirm.2005.Neon.SXT wrote:Oh ok. So you're saying that in order for the switch to even turn the LEDs on, I'd have to at least have my parking lights on?
That will probably save me confusion tomorrow. I'd go to turn them on to see if it works and it doesn't. Thanks again
Thanks though
Paid message huh? Didn't have to waste money on this thread...Caraudioholic24 wrote:Im Caraudioholic24 and I paid for this message.
I concur with the above said statements!!
Its the cop in me. lol. a habit, like smoking, drinking, and the like.
He is unworthy of the name of man who is ignorant of the fact that the diagonal of a square is incommensurable with its side.
-brian
2007 F-150
2006 Mitsubishi Outlander
2004 F-350
2000 Dodge Neon
1957 Chevy truck
1989 Chevy 1500

-brian
2007 F-150
2006 Mitsubishi Outlander
2004 F-350
2000 Dodge Neon
1957 Chevy truck
1989 Chevy 1500

- 2005.Neon.SXT
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Lol funny.
Well I suppose this thread can be locked or whatnot. LEDs are wired, and they work. Even took the time to drill a hole in my center console compartment thing for the switch. I took way too long wiring the damn things mainly because I was really concerned about how the wires were placed... even though they'll never been seen... silly me.
Oznium LEDs are bright! Way brighter than the AutoZone ones
Thanks again guys.
Well I suppose this thread can be locked or whatnot. LEDs are wired, and they work. Even took the time to drill a hole in my center console compartment thing for the switch. I took way too long wiring the damn things mainly because I was really concerned about how the wires were placed... even though they'll never been seen... silly me.
Oznium LEDs are bright! Way brighter than the AutoZone ones
Thanks again guys.
is that at power wire in all models? i have a mtx and was looking into some interior led strips as well and this would solve my problem of finding somewhere else to tap into. i only want them on when the lights are on. last car i just tapped into the parking lights for my gauge layovers and interior led strips.
- 2005.Neon.SXT
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Yep. It's a wire that is suppose to light a bulb for the ATX (the "P", "N", "D", etc... whatever you call that). I have a MTX as well, and the wire was just taped down below the shifter. I have all four of my 9.5" LED strips tapped into that orange wire, then grounded on a screw under the center console (in front of the shifter).
- 2005.Neon.SXT
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So I've noticed the past couple days that my lights (gauge cluster and interior LED strips) are flickering very slightly. I noticed this after I installed my LED strips. My voltmeter has always read just below, if not at, the 14 mark. It doesn't do this everytime I'm driving, but I have noticed that when they do flicker, it'll hang just above 13.5 and bounce back and forth between that and 13.7 ish. Just wondering if anyone's got any ideas. And for those who don't know what I tapped into for power, it was that orange wire under the center console that goes to the ATX gearbox light.
Thanks.
Thanks.
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Caraudioholic24
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I've no idea what you're talking about lol so I guess.. never?Caraudioholic24 wrote:Whens the last time you had your charging system looked at. Autozone will do it for free. Sounds like a charging issue to me.
Im also still working on you sub setup. Been really busy latley. Thanks
And yea, take your time on the setup bro. No rush. Though I do deploy in a few months, so yea lol... one more deployment and I'm done
Thanks man.
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Caraudioholic24
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If it is a problem with the battery, I was looking to get the (not-so-cheap) optimums. But I'll post back here about the results from Autozone (and I'll keep in mind not to let a newbie do it lol). It'll be later tonight because I'm still "at work" lol.Caraudioholic24 wrote:yea they should hook up a machine and test your battery and altenator to see if everything is charging ok. Just dont let some new young kid do it. LOL. If that checks out ok then we will have to go to step 2
look into stinger batteries as well. the spv44 is a perfect fit for the stock battery tray, but you need to make your own tiedown.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_167 ... SPV44.html
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_167 ... SPV44.html
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Nice. Thanks for that info.nineball wrote:look into stinger batteries as well. the spv44 is a perfect fit for the stock battery tray, but you need to make your own tiedown.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_167 ... SPV44.html
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Caraudioholic24
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I am a fan of the optima yellow top. They fit if your not running a stock airbox.
Been using them for 7 plus years and Im still using an original in my daily. Has been going strong for over 6 1/2 years. Best battery I have ever owned
Been using them for 7 plus years and Im still using an original in my daily. Has been going strong for over 6 1/2 years. Best battery I have ever owned
Last edited by Caraudioholic24 on Fri May 15, 2009 11:47 am, edited 1 time in total.
depending on how much power your system will have you may want to get an spv20 as well.
i have the 44, big3+ in 0g, pdx 4.100 and 1.1000 and on the few occasions i turn it up near the upper limits i still get dimming. i attribute this to our externally regulated alternator. i have the 120a version and haven't found anything to upgrade it with so i am debating picking up one of the 20s myself to see if it helps.
i already have 0g + and - run to the back so adding one won't be a hassle.
i have the 44, big3+ in 0g, pdx 4.100 and 1.1000 and on the few occasions i turn it up near the upper limits i still get dimming. i attribute this to our externally regulated alternator. i have the 120a version and haven't found anything to upgrade it with so i am debating picking up one of the 20s myself to see if it helps.
i already have 0g + and - run to the back so adding one won't be a hassle.
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Caraudioholic24
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There ya go. You can always add more batteries. I suggest after 2 you need to get an isolator. I also recommend you try this out.
http://www.lfsracing.com/proddetail.php ... SODP&cat=9
Makes your altenator spin faster thus making more power at lower RPMS.
http://www.lfsracing.com/proddetail.php ... SODP&cat=9
Makes your altenator spin faster thus making more power at lower RPMS.
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**update**
So I went to AutoZone to get my battery checked. The battery test came out "Good". He then went to check the alternator and it's bad. From what he told me that the machine read, I was doing 26Amps. I guess I'm supposed to be doing a lot more than that (I think he said 160 or 140 or something). A new alternator from AutoZone is $159.99 and then I gotta figure in the cost to get it installed...
What do you all think I should do? Try and find an alternator that someone might have here? Is it improbable to have someone like myself install it? I have no idea where/what the alternator looks like lol. My Voltmeter in my car is now reading 13.1-13.2 Volts (compared to 13.7 a few days ago).
So I went to AutoZone to get my battery checked. The battery test came out "Good". He then went to check the alternator and it's bad. From what he told me that the machine read, I was doing 26Amps. I guess I'm supposed to be doing a lot more than that (I think he said 160 or 140 or something). A new alternator from AutoZone is $159.99 and then I gotta figure in the cost to get it installed...
What do you all think I should do? Try and find an alternator that someone might have here? Is it improbable to have someone like myself install it? I have no idea where/what the alternator looks like lol. My Voltmeter in my car is now reading 13.1-13.2 Volts (compared to 13.7 a few days ago).
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Caraudioholic24
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I think it was the 120, can't remember for sure. The guy was telling me it was going to be expensive for an auto shop to install it since it's like.. in a peculiar spot (again, I didn't know what it was so I didn't know what I was looking at lol) and would have to jack the car, lift the motor, or something crazy.Caraudioholic24 wrote:Yea I figured thats what it was. Expensive little bastard. Do you know if its the 120 amp? As for the install I dont think its all that bad. If your in front of the car hood opem, look down near the passenger firewall and you will see the altenator. Wish I was closer I wouldnt mind helpin ya out.
Thanks man.
i have a used alt from a pt. car had 45k on it. i had it tested last year when i bought it and it was good. i thought my alt was going bad at the time but it turned out to be the battery. i never ran the number to see the amperage of it but i think all pts came with a 120 or higher. $65 plus shipping if you want it, that's what i paid.
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I'll keep it in mind, see if anyone else can chime in letting me know it'll be fine for my car.nineball wrote:i have a used alt from a pt. car had 45k on it. i had it tested last year when i bought it and it was good. i thought my alt was going bad at the time but it turned out to be the battery. i never ran the number to see the amperage of it but i think all pts came with a 120 or higher. $65 plus shipping if you want it, that's what i paid.
But I don't know if I trust buying from a 9 year old...
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Oh I was just kidding bro lol. It says you're 9. Just making a joke off itnineball wrote:viewtopic.php?t=29208&highlight=nineball


