stock tweaters?
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Broken Glass
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stock tweaters?
Well i blew the tweaters so can someone tell me the size of them? im at school and am looking at new ones and i dont have acess to measuring devices haha. thanks
second question: i have all 4 other speakers replaced. so im prolly going to amp them at the same time i do this. so id need to get a 4 channel amp, re-wire all the speakers to it with a thicker gauge speaker white, then run the tweeters off the front two speakers using cross-overs correct?
second question: i have all 4 other speakers replaced. so im prolly going to amp them at the same time i do this. so id need to get a 4 channel amp, re-wire all the speakers to it with a thicker gauge speaker white, then run the tweeters off the front two speakers using cross-overs correct?
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SOKADAO954
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the stock tweets are actually 1" with an adapter plate to fit in the 3.5" hole.
be careful if you are adding tweets and mids (door) to a single channel on the amp. most 4 channel amps will run in 2ohm or 4ohm configurations but not mixed. if you buy a complete set of components for the front they should be configured to run at a 4ohm final load.
to be honest if you already changed the door speakers just amp them on their own and forget about adding tweets to the dash. it's a horrible mounting spot to begin with as the sound waves reflect off the windshield.
be careful if you are adding tweets and mids (door) to a single channel on the amp. most 4 channel amps will run in 2ohm or 4ohm configurations but not mixed. if you buy a complete set of components for the front they should be configured to run at a 4ohm final load.
to be honest if you already changed the door speakers just amp them on their own and forget about adding tweets to the dash. it's a horrible mounting spot to begin with as the sound waves reflect off the windshield.
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SOKADAO954
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i agree with that does not make much diff from oem's.nineball wrote:the stock tweets are actually 1" with an adapter plate to fit in the 3.5" hole.
be careful if you are adding tweets and mids (door) to a single channel on the amp. most 4 channel amps will run in 2ohm or 4ohm configurations but not mixed. if you buy a complete set of components for the front they should be configured to run at a 4ohm final load.
to be honest if you already changed the door speakers just amp them on their own and forget about adding tweets to the dash. it's a horrible mounting spot to begin with as the sound waves reflect off the windshield.
i wish they were on the door from factory.
they can be. it's quite easy. these are my old type-r comps which have long since been replaced but you get the idea.
if you do go this route make sure your tweet mounts are the flush kind and i found it to sound better using the swivel mounts. it gave me a little more control on the position since they are mounted off-axis, but with the adjustment it is very close.


if you do go this route make sure your tweet mounts are the flush kind and i found it to sound better using the swivel mounts. it gave me a little more control on the position since they are mounted off-axis, but with the adjustment it is very close.


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Broken Glass
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- Pablodragon
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Broken Glass
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I know, i read the thread, please read by post about them being blownPablodragon wrote:It's mentioned alot here... and I guess it doesn't make much difference if yer replacing them and a head unit...
but I'm pretty sure...
THE STOCK SPEAKERS UP IN THE DASH ARE NOT TWEETERS, JUST SMALL FULL RANGE SPEAKERS.
no?
- Dylan-00Blue
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Fer sure. I couldnt believe the difference of having tweeters in the pillars, the music is actually coming at you not from a "mystery" zone.Dylan-00Blue wrote:yeah most ppl just disconnect them because there stupis to have on the dash where the sound bounces

Alpine CDA-9886
Sundown Sax100.4
Focal Polyglass VR comps
Sundown Saz-1500D
Ssa Xcon 15"
Big 3 1/0 guage

