help on tokico strut install

[Neon4Life]

ive been trying to install my rear struts since like 9 this morning and havent been able too. is there a special wway to install them or what. and i havent even done my front struts yet cause i cant get my camber bolt out of one strut.dam struts. well whats the number to the ones that go on the front and the ones on the rear. im sure im doing it rite.

[hansken_yo]

Your going to have to give more of an explanation here of whats going on... Photos help.

[Neon4Life]

Your going to have to give more of an explanation here of whats going on... Photos help.

lol
ok

[occasional demons]

ASSEMBLY - STRUT ASSEMBLY (REAR)

The strut assembly must be removed from the
vehicle for it to be disassembled and assembled.
(Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/REAR/STRUT -
REMOVAL).
For the disassembly and assembly of the strut
assembly, use strut spring compressor, Pentastar Service
Equipment (PSE) tool W-7200, or the equivalent,
to compress the coil spring. Follow the manufacturer’s
instructions closely.
NOTE: If the coil spring has been removed from the
spring compressor, proceed with the next step, otherwise,
proceed with step 3.
(1) Place the coil spring in the compressor following
the manufacturers instructions. Before compressing
the spring, rotate the spring to the position
determined in the note prior to step 9 in disassembly.
(2) Slowly compress the coil spring until enough
room is available for strut assembly reassembly.
(3) Install the lower spring isolator on the lower
spring seat of the strut matching the step built into
the isolator with the step in the lower spring seat on
the strut (Fig. 20).
(4) Install the jounce bumper on the strut shaft.
The jounce bumper is to be installed with the pointed
end pointing downward toward the lower seat.
(5) Install the dust shield on the strut shaft (Fig.
20). The bottom of the dust shield will snap past the
retainer on top of the strut housing.
(6) Install the strut through the bottom of the coil
spring until the lower spring seat contacts the lower
end of the coil spring. Rotate the strut until the end
of the coil spring fits against the step in the lower
spring seat. If done correctly, the clevis on
the bottom of the strut should face toward the compressor.
(7) Install the clamp on the lower end of the coil
spring and strut, so the strut is held in place with
the coil spring.
NOTE: Before installing the upper mount, check to
make sure the correct side mount is being installed.
Left and right upper mounts are different. A left
mount will be marked with the letter “L” while a
right mount will be marked with the letter “R” (Fig.
21).
(8 ) Install the upper mount over the strut shaft
and onto the top of the upper spring. Near the center
on the top of the mount is the word “OUT” and an
arrow (Fig. 21). Point the arrow on the mount in the
same direction that the clevis bracket on the lower
end of the strut is pointed in. This direction should
be straight toward the compressor.
(9) Loosely install the retaining nut on the strut
shaft. Install Strut Nut Socket (on the end of a
torque wrench), Special Tool 6864, on the strut shaft
retaining nut (Fig. 19). Next, install a socket on the
hex on the end of the strut shaft. While holding the
Fig. 21 Upper Mount Markings
1 - SIDE INDICATING LETTER
2 - DIRECTIONAL INDICATOR
3 - UPPER MOUNT
2 - 46 REAR SUSPENSION PL/SRT-4
STRUT ASSEMBLY (Continued)
strut shaft from turning, tighten the strut shaft
retaining nut to a torque of 75 N·m (55 ft. lbs.).
(10) Slowly release the tension from the coil spring
by backing off the compressor drive completely. As
the tension is relieved, make sure the upper mount’s
seat aligns properly with the coil spring.
(11) Verify the arrow on the upper mount is pointing
in the same direction as the strut clevis bracket
as mentioned in step 9.
(12) Remove the clamp from the lower end of the
coil spring and strut. Push back the spring compressor
upper and lower hooks, then remove the strut
assembly from the spring compressor.
(13) Install the strut assembly on the vehicle.
(Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/REAR/STRUT - INSTALLATION).
INSTALLATION - STRUT ASSEMBLY (REAR)
NOTE: Before proceeding with this procedure,
(Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/REAR - WARNING).
(1) To place the strut assembly into mounting position,
start the lower end of the strut over the top of
the knuckle and down the back between the two lateral
arms. Next, lift the top of the strut assembly up
into the strut tower aligning the studs on top of the
upper mount with the three mounting holes in the
strut tower. While holding the strut assembly in
place, install the three mounting nuts on the upper
mount studs inside the luggage compartment (Fig.
17). Tighten the 3 mounting nuts to a torque of 34
N·m (300 in. lbs).
(2) Install the carpeting back on top of the rear
strut tower.
(3) Close the deck lid.
(4) Raise the vehicle (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE/HOISTING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
CAUTION: The strut-to-knuckle attaching bolts are
serrated and must not be turned during installation.
Once installed, hold the bolts stationary in the
steering knuckle while installing and tightening the
nuts.
(5) Align the holes in the strut clevis bracket on
the lower end of the strut with the mounting holes in
the knuckle. Install the two bolts attaching the strut
to the rear knuckle (Fig. 1). Install the nuts. Tighten
the two nuts to 88 N·m (65 ft. lbs.).
(6) If the vehicle is equipped with disc brakes (Fig.
16), install the brake rotor and disc brake caliper on
the knuckle. Install the two guide pin bolts securing
the front disc brake caliper to the steering knuckle.
Tighten the guide pin bolts to a torque of 22 N·m
(192 in. lbs.).
(7) If equipped with a rear stabilizer bar, reinstall
the stabilizer bar link (Fig. 1):
(a) Place the link center sleeve and bushings
between the eye in the end of the stabilizer bar
and the link mounting bracket on the strut.
(b) Start the stabilizer bar link bolt with bushing
from the top, down through the stabilizer bar,
inner link bushings and sleeve, and strut link
mounting bracket.
(c) Install a lower bushing, then the nut. Do not
tighten the nut at this time.
(8 ) If the vehicle is equipped with the antilock
brake system (ABS), install the screw securing the
ABS wheel speed sensor bracket to the rear of the
strut assembly (Fig. 15). Tighten the mounting screw
to a torque of 13 N·m (120 in. lbs.).
(9) If the vehicle is equipped with rear drum
brakes, install the screw securing the brake hose
bracket to the rear of the strut assembly (Fig. 14).
Tighten the screw to a torque of 31 N·m (275 in. lbs.).
(10) Install the tire and wheel assembly on vehicle
(Refer to 22 - TIRES/WHEELS - INSTALLATION).
Tighten the wheel mounting stud nuts in proper
sequence until all nuts are torqued to half specification.
Repeat the tightening sequence, this time, to
full specified torque of 135 N·m (100 ft. lbs.).
(11) Lower the vehicle to ground level.
(12) Tighten the stabilizer bar link nut to a torque
of 23 N·m (200 in. lbs.).
(13) Set the rear toe on the vehicle to the required
specification if necessary. (Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/
WHEEL ALIGNMENT - STANDARD PROCEDURE

[Neon4Life]

ok forget about the strut for a min. im having problem removing a camber bolt from my front strut like it wont move for anything. has anyone ever had a problem like that. ?

[jT]

whats the problem?

put a socket on the bolt side to hold it

put a socket on the nut side and remove the nut while keeping the bolt from turning with it

hammer out the bolt

done

[occasional demons]

well whats the number to the ones that go on the front and the ones on the rear.

viewtopic.php?t=35646

I would tell you to look in the PN section, but you seem to have enough troubles.

[Neon4Life]

well whats the number to the ones that go on the front and the ones on the rear.

viewtopic.php?t=35646

I would tell you to look in the PN section, but you seem to have enough troubles.

man i took the regular one out its just that the camber one is stuck on there.

[occasional demons]

If it will turn, try turning it. Maybe it is hitting the inside of the strut yoke, preventing it from sliding out.

[OB]

Is the nut off the bolt yet? If so, whack it with a hammer. If the nut is still on, hit it with an impact gun. It's just a nut and bolt, nothing special just because it's for camber adjustment.

The rear struts have tabs for sway bars, so the part numbers are different. The tab should face the rear of the car. The front struts are interchangeable. If you try to put the front struts on the rear, they will be too big on the knuckle. The correct ones will fit snug.

[hansken_yo]

man i took the regular one out its just that the camber one is stuck on there.

If you haven't tried this yet, try putting the regular one back in to help relieve any tension on the camber bolt.

[Neon4Life]

man i took the regular one out its just that the camber one is stuck on there.

If you haven't tried this yet, try putting the regular one back in to help relieve any tension on the camber bolt.

ok i got the struts in with the help of like 5 people lol. and the camber bolt came out with brute force. and i think carquest sold me the wrong camber bolts because when it was all done and toucking all 4 wheels to the ground i moved the steering wheel and the front end shoook like it was a rocking chair. now could that be because it needs alligned or what ??

[teklein]

man i took the regular one out its just that the camber one is stuck on there.

If you haven't tried this yet, try putting the regular one back in to help relieve any tension on the camber bolt.

ok i got the struts in with the help of like 5 people lol. and the camber bolt came out with brute force. and i think carquest sold me the wrong camber bolts because when it was all done and toucking all 4 wheels to the ground i moved the steering wheel and the front end shoook like it was a rocking chair. now could that be because it needs alligned or what ??

That would most likely be because something is not tight...

I have had way out of spec alignments right after a strut install, and I cant say that I have ever experienced this "rocking chair".

[Neon4Life]

If you haven't tried this yet, try putting the regular one back in to help relieve any tension on the camber bolt.

ok i got the struts in with the help of like 5 people lol. and the camber bolt came out with brute force. and i think carquest sold me the wrong camber bolts because when it was all done and toucking all 4 wheels to the ground i moved the steering wheel and the front end shoook like it was a rocking chair. now could that be because it needs alligned or what ??

That would most likely be because something is not tight...

I have had way out of spec alignments right after a strut install, and I cant say that I have ever experienced this "rocking chair".

well after moving the steering wheel all the way to the right and all the way to the left it kinda stopped but if i grab the wheel and move it like the steering wheel inside moves alot. so either i need to tighten something down or what. but i have some time tomorrow morning before work to take it to the allignment shop. should i take it and see what they end up telling me ??

[teklein]

ok i got the struts in with the help of like 5 people lol. and the camber bolt came out with brute force. and i think carquest sold me the wrong camber bolts because when it was all done and toucking all 4 wheels to the ground i moved the steering wheel and the front end shoook like it was a rocking chair. now could that be because it needs alligned or what ??

That would most likely be because something is not tight...

I have had way out of spec alignments right after a strut install, and I cant say that I have ever experienced this "rocking chair".

well after moving the steering wheel all the way to the right and all the way to the left it kinda stopped but if i grab the wheel and move it like the steering wheel inside moves alot. so either i need to tighten something down or what. but i have some time tomorrow morning before work to take it to the allignment shop. should i take it and see what they end up telling me ??

Well, if you turn the cars wheel, the steering wheel will move inside the car. They are all linked together. And if by alot you mean faster, then yes thats normal. Your steering wheel turns faster to the right than your actual wheel does. Same with left.

[Neon4Life]

well i guess ill take it to the shop and see what they tell me then ?

[teklein]

well i guess ill take it to the shop and see what they tell me then ?

I would.

I cant really understand whats happening.

But, best bet is to get it looked at tomorrow when the align it.

[Neon4Life]

well i guess ill take it to the shop and see what they tell me then ?

I would.

I cant really understand whats happening.

But, best bet is to get it looked at tomorrow when the align it.

yeah. ok.ill let u know what turns up.

[hansken_yo]

the only real reason why things would feel loose is because the camber bolt isn't actually "adjusting" camber and isn't locked into place. As a result you would have a "loose" bolt with gappage.

If I remember correctly the bolt has a "lock" washer the helps position the camber adjustment and keep it in place.

That is the only reason I could think of why something is feeling loose.

[Neon4Life]

oh i thought that too. but il find out here in a few when i get to the allignment shop.

[Neon4Life]

ell i figured out what the problem was, i didnt tighten the bolts down good enough on the strut to steering knucle. and i need to replace my left ball joint wich sucks. but i will do tomorrow.