Timing Belt Replacement

01N3ON · Post by **01N3ON** » Thu Jun 04, 2009 1:07 pm

Okay I just came back from Auto Zone. I pretty much got what I think I need to replace my timing belt.

This is what I got:
Duralast New Water Pump
Duralast Timing Belt
Duralast Alternator Belt
Duralast Power Steering and Air Conditioner Belt

Is there anything else REQUIRED that I cannot replace in a couple of weeks? My timing belt/water pump/serpentine belts have over 150,000 miles on them and I am scared to death they are going to break. My timing belt has a hydraulic tensioner. Do I need to replace that? I am definately on a tight budget so I need to get this done as cheaply as possible and so far it has cost $~80

2001 Neon SE manufactured May of 2001

Daniel

Paul56 · Post by **Paul56** » Thu Jun 04, 2009 4:41 pm

The other items...

-crank seal
-cam seal
-PS/AC tensioner (if the idler does not run smooth)
-hydraulic tensioner (again, if the idler does not run smooth)
-upper torque strut (inspect the rubber... if cracked replace)

I understand the hydraulic tensioner can be replaced with the cheaper mechanical one. Others can offer more on that.

The seals are cheap so better to replace them while you are in there.

jT · Post by jT » Thu Jun 04, 2009 5:50 pm

those seals are't really REQUIRED, it's one of those "while you're there you might as well" things.. i didn't do them on mine.

the timing belt tensioner is the same way.. if there's nothing wrong then don't do it, but since you're in there anyways you might as well... NOTE that since you have the original tensioner, the bracket was probably never serviced at the dealership, and youd have to spend about $500 to replace the tensioner because you have to get a different bracket too... i had bought the new tensioner as well and planned to do it but it wouldnt happen without the other parts

for some reason rock auto is not listing the other parts anymore?? originally it had mentioned what other kit you had to get to use the new tensioner

Paul56 · Post by **Paul56** » Thu Jun 04, 2009 6:50 pm

Lots of things are not required on this job but it does make sense to get them done anyways.

If you are doing the job yourself you save the downtime and grief from having to tear into it again.

If you are having a shop do the job you save yourself the labor costs.

BTW, those crank & cam seals are $25 CDN for both.

Oh, and don't forget the water pump seal... you will need a new one of those as well.

bone-yard-racing · Post by **bone-yard-racing** » Thu Jun 04, 2009 7:17 pm

^ Comes on the water pump:

Here is the litens tensioner kit:
http://www.store.partsdinosaur.com/product1319.html

DO NOT PUT THAT BELT ON YOUR CAR they're crap the duralast isnt so bad

You just cut the rear cover slightly and it goes on fine. I am one of the few people who believes the hydraulic tensioner to be easier to work on than the litens but neither is too bad

ZeroChad · Post by **ZeroChad** » Thu Jun 04, 2009 8:57 pm

jT wrote:those seals are't really REQUIRED, it's one of those "while you're there you might as well" things.. i didn't do them on mine.

the timing belt tensioner is the same way.. if there's nothing wrong then don't do it, but since you're in there anyways you might as well... NOTE that since you have the original tensioner, the bracket was probably never serviced at the dealership, and youd have to spend about $500 to replace the tensioner because you have to get a different bracket too... i had bought the new tensioner as well and planned to do it but it wouldnt happen without the other parts

What are you talking about? The timing belt tentioner replacement is always a good idea. They are known to fail quite often. The mechanical tensioner is a direct swap for the crappy hydraulic. Granted you can't have just the pulley. The bracket + pulley is around $50, not 500.

The camshaft seal is eaxy to replace and there is no reason you shouldn't. The crank seal on the oil pump is a little harder. You'll need a steering wheel puller with bolt like the ones that hold your coilpack, but a little longer. That way you can remove the crank gear and get at the seal. AC/PS tensioner is a good idea to do to since they are relatively cheap.

I agree with boneyard. Gates is probably your best bet for longevity though.

Post by **occasional demons** » Thu Jun 04, 2009 9:42 pm

http://chronoscender.freeservers.com/ne ... gbelt.html

ZeroChad wrote: AC/PS tensioner is a good idea to do to since they are relatively cheap.

4668364AD ECB, ECH TENSIONER AND BRACKET, Engine Mount Cooling - Belts and pulleys - Tensioner - 2.0 liter
2.0 liter 2000 - 2001 $322.00

Um, yeah. Me thinks the price has gone into rape mode.

But the kicker is if it fails, you are doing half the job over to swap it. They used to be around $125 ish.

Part number 4668364AA was superseded by part number 4668364AD, so we can

the hell out of you. That is all.

01N3ON · Post by **01N3ON** » Thu Jun 04, 2009 10:38 pm

Paul56 wrote:The other items...

-crank seal
-cam seal
-PS/AC tensioner (if the idler does not run smooth)
-hydraulic tensioner (again, if the idler does not run smooth)
-upper torque strut (inspect the rubber... if cracked replace)

I understand the hydraulic tensioner can be replaced with the cheaper mechanical one. Others can offer more on that.

The seals are cheap so better to replace them while you are in there.

how do i know if the idler is running smoothly?

Post by **occasional demons** » Thu Jun 04, 2009 11:07 pm

When you get the belt removed spin it by hand.
Mine had the hydraulic tensioner. When I attempted to compress it, to put the pin in the hole to reinstall, it would not compress. Not even with a large vise and cheater bar. Litens FTW! All in all replacing all these little things is not cheap, but it is still less than an engine (maybe) and better than a monthly payment for 6 years.
Yes there still is a monthly payment for general upkeep, but if you're late, it won't affect your credit!

Donkeypuncher · Post by **Donkeypuncher** » Thu Jun 04, 2009 11:17 pm

It's been said that the hydraulic tensioner puts more stress on the belt, especially at high rpms. The hydraulic is easier to work with, but the mechanical one is still pretty simple. It's hard to say which is better because both oem styles have been known to fail. I picked the litens for peace of mind since it's known to be a quality unit.

ZeroChad · Post by **ZeroChad** » Fri Jun 05, 2009 12:48 am

occasional demons wrote:
4668364AD ECB, ECH TENSIONER AND BRACKET, Engine Mount Cooling - Belts and pulleys - Tensioner - 2.0 liter
2.0 liter 2000 - 2001 $322.00

Um, yeah. Me thinks the price has gone into rape mode.

Part number 4668364AA was superseded by part number 4668364AD, so we can the hell out of you. That is all.

That is for the pulley and the bracket. You can get a gates pulley for like $6 from RockAuto.

As far as telling if it goes bad, listen close to the ps/ac belt. If you hear strange noises from the pulley area or if its loud then you might have some wear. You could try comparing it to running w/o the belt too.

jT · Post by jT » Fri Jun 05, 2009 2:42 am

ZeroChad wrote: What are you talking about? The mechanical tensioner is a direct swap for the crappy hydraulic. The bracket + pulley is around $50, not 500.

except that it's really not a direct swap.. at least it wasn't for me. and as i said, rockauto isnt pointing out the information anymore like it used to. i found a thread where i posted about it before, so the 500 was overkill.. it was going to be around $250 for both kits to get the tensioner to work.

Boyscoutgonebad · Post by **Boyscoutgonebad** » Fri Jun 05, 2009 2:53 am

occasional demons wrote:http://chronoscender.freeservers.com/ne ... gbelt.html

every thing in that link seems to verify that the mech. tensioner is a direct replacement with minor modification.
JT, do you links to the other threads your referring to?

Post by **occasional demons** » Fri Jun 05, 2009 7:26 am

ZeroChad wrote:
That is for the pulley and the bracket. You can get a gates pulley for like $6 from RockAuto.

But if the tension spring gets weak, or breaks you're done. It's time to design a retrofit with one of the other style tensioners that sell for about $80.
Glad I saved my old mount.

mastershake · Post by **mastershake** » Mon Jun 08, 2009 8:34 pm

Autozone only shows one timing belt tensioner option (for a 2002 that is) and it's only $67.99. Looks like you just unbolt the old one and bolt on the new one. Am i missing something here?

Donkeypuncher · Post by **Donkeypuncher** » Mon Jun 08, 2009 9:50 pm

That' pretty much it, other than the inner timing cover, but that is an easy fix. Either buy the newer style timing cover or just cut the old one.

mastershake · Post by **mastershake** » Tue Jun 09, 2009 6:19 am

Donkeypuncher wrote:That' pretty much it, other than the inner timing cover, but that is an easy fix. Either buy the newer style timing cover or just cut the old one.

Sorry i wrote that wrong. The Autozone tensioner they offer, shows only the pully as the part you get. Which is "technically" the tensioner, but the photo shows no "bracket" with it that bolts to the block like OEM (the "X" assembly that the pully mounts to). So can i meerly remove the only tensioner (pully only) and bolt this new one up to the old bracket?

Do a search an their site and you'll see what i mean.

Donkeypuncher · Post by **Donkeypuncher** » Tue Jun 09, 2009 3:43 pm

I see what you mean, it looks like it's just the pulley in the picture. http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/ ... 7/image/6/

I just checked my old mechanical tensioner and the pulley comes right off once you remove the retaining nut. So if you already have a mechanical tensioner, it should be a matter of just swapping the pulley.

mastershake · Post by **mastershake** » Tue Jun 09, 2009 7:05 pm

Donkeypuncher wrote:I see what you mean, it looks like it's just the pulley in the picture. http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/ ... 7/image/6/

I just checked my old mechanical tensioner and the pulley comes right off once you remove the retaining nut. So if you already have a mechanical tensioner, it should be a matter of just swapping the pulley.

That's it!! Thanks, and sorry for the threadjack!

Post by **jonnymopar** » Thu Aug 20, 2009 2:32 pm

Good info in this thread. I'm planning on doing a timing belt once it get a little cooler outside. I'm at 112k miles right now so I'm not in a mad rush to get it done.

My car is a 2003. I should have the updated tensioner, right? All this swapping tensioners is a bit confusing, having never taken apart a 2nd gen 2.0L.

Danteneon · Post by **Danteneon** » Thu Aug 20, 2009 2:39 pm

The newer style mechanical tensioner was introduced mid year 2002. Your 03 should be fine

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