Proper Engine Torque Strut Alignment

[Danteneon]

Here is the proper way to adjust the torque struts on our cars. If the engine is not in alignment it can cause premature wear on the mounts, cause excessive vibration, and in extreme cases, the breakage of parts.

ENGINE TORQUE STRUT ADJUSTMENT
The upper and lower torque struts need to be adjusted together to assure proper engine positioning and engine mount loading. Whenever a torque strut bolt(s) is loosened, this procedure must be performed.

Loosen the upper and lower torque strut attaching bolt at the suspension crossmember and shock tower bracket.
The engine position may now be adjusted by positioning a suitable floor jack on the forward edge of the transmission bell housing.



NOTE: The floor jack must be positioned as shown in (Floor Jack Positioning) to prevent minimal upward lifting of the engine.

With the engine supported, remove the upper and lower torque strut attachment bolt(s) at shock tower bracket and suspension crossmember. Verify that the torque struts are free to move within the shock tower bracket and crossmember. Re-install the torque strut bolt(s), but do not tighten.
Carefully apply upward force, allowing the upper engine to rotate rearward until the distance between the center of the rearmost attaching stud on the engine mount bracket (point “A”) and the center of the hole for the washer hose clip on the shock tower bracket (point “B”) is 119 mm (4.70 in.).



With the engine held at the proper position, tighten both the upper and lower torque strut bolts to 118 N·m (87 ft. lbs.).
Remove the floor jack.

The above method is not only easy to do, but it can make even solid engine mounts more bearable

[bone-yard-racing]

YAY! something geeky and I get to use the metric function on my caliper I just need a bit of sunlight

[Danteneon]

Yep I have a plastic slide caliper that works perfectly for this.

[OhNo2.0]

Can I add that the Haynes manual is WRONG and this thread is correct.

Haynes manual states 6.7" or 190mm, and it's obviously 4.7" or 119mm.

Just thought I'd throw this in cause I was kinda confused the otherday when I changed both my upper and lower mounts, then I read the book for the proper procedure and was like "shit, I'm 2" out".

Good thing they supplied a picture with a ruler in it...

[Danteneon]

Yep, Haynes FTMFL

[OhNo2.0]

Yep, Haynes FTMFL

Makes me wonder how many other measurements are off.

Considering if I go by the Haynes manual, the tranny pan and valve cover obviously have specific torque reqs. Though when I went by the book I broke off 3 valve cover bolts, and the tranny pan warped and caused leaks. I think the pan warped cause the bolts were too tight for the rubber gasket.

And yes I used proper torque wrenches...2 actually that were both calibrated correctly.

I have learned to DBL check any measurements or torque specs online or whatever especially if it's for internal parts.

[MyNeonSaysHi]

This applies to the SRT-4 too I believe.
So what would be the best thing to use to measure it?

[Danteneon]

Yes it does.

Slide calipers work well. I have a cheapy plastic one that works perfectly. Or if you want to be pimp, get one of the nifty stainless steel digital ones (they aren't that expensive).

Or you can use a metal or plastic ruler. So long as it has mm on it (I found it's easier to get readings for it in metric).

[MyNeonSaysHi]

Holy crap that was a fast response.
I think the best bet would be to get some string and measure it out to 4.70'' then cut it and use it as a guide.
SO the best place to position the jack would be in front of the oil pan just a tad?

[Danteneon]

I had it posted before you added the second line.

And yes, you want to make sure you support it so the lift is able to rotate the engine back, not straight up.

[occasional demons]

He has to get those lightning fast responses in before he gets old in a day or two.

[Danteneon]

Yeah...thanks for bringing that up

[occasional demons]

You'll be saying that to the GF soon enough.


Um, er yeah, torque strut alignment.... where were we?

[Danteneon]

Oooo! I'm getting a GF for my birthday? Sweet!

Right right...torque struts...

[srtjesse]

thank you so much dante the vibration my car makes is driving me crazy im going to try this out ill let you know if it goes away

[Danteneon]

Good deal, let me know what happens.

[Perfctsouljah]

With the engine held at the proper position, tighten both the upper and lower torque strut bolts to 118 N·m (87 ft. lbs.).
Remove the floor jack.

The above method is not only easy to do, but it can make even solid engine mounts more bearable

Great write-up Dante. You have certainly done wonderfully, there is so much detail!

However through all of the researching I have done (and personal work experience), I found the proper torque for the engine mount bolts to be 40 Ft lbs for the front mount bolt attaching to the aluminum bracket. Use either Red or Green Locktite when re attaching. The green locktite will seal and double the amount of torque it will take in order to back the bolt out. The Bolt attaching to the strut mount should be 45 ft lbs (Not an aluminum mount, so it can take more pressure). Remember that this is aluminum that we are torquing these bolts to and caution should be used when doing this or else you may find yourself using a helicoil or buying a new bracket. The same should be done with the lower mount.

I am not a big fan of Haynes or Chilton. All of my information comes from either Mitchells or Alldata which many shops, and schools use alike.

Hopefully this will help.

[Danteneon]

Good input there

I can't take credit for the write-up really. The info is from the Chrysler FSM.

[srtjesse]

ok i finally got around to aligning my engine after a month lol and i have to say thanks dante for the info you saved my life my car does not vibrate anymore i was getting ready to take the car to a shop because i couldnt find what was wrong with it

[Danteneon]

Sweet! Easy fix FTMFW!

[srtjesse]

Sweet! Easy fix FTMFW!

trooof

[NonBusto27]

I'll have to try that as well, my car is shaking like crazy and my hood rattles and is annoying. I'll do it this weekend and see if i can get it to stop. I'll post what happens

[mikeb818]

haha it seems like a common problem. maybe i should do this since i had a crazy vibration coming from the right side of the car. thought it might of been a halfshaft but i put a new one in. wednesday i will do this since i have the day off work and see if it helps. if not im taking my car into a shop. which hurts since im about to start school for automotive service technology lol

[Mootz]

Yeah going to try this myself. Just got done installing a clutch and when I went to test drive it had crazy vibrations on idle and accelleration. Still have to change right side motor mount though. Can anyone point me to a thread for that? Been all over looking for info on that. Chilton manual said remove bolts pull mount install in reverse order. Yeah right. Any help would be great.

[occasional demons]

By right side, is that from the driver seat, or from standing in front of the car?

[Mootz]

Pass side the one in the frame rail. The nightmare or so I heard. Trans mount was no big deal the torque struts are pretty self explanatory that other one has me scratching my head.

[Mootz]

Tied it and it helped a little but that motor mount is shot. Have to replace it. Still looking for advice on that will be doing it tomorrow. It's the one that mounts on the passenger side in the frame rail. Has four bolts to the frame and the pass through bolt in the fenderwell. thanks guys.

[g_force58]

I had my car in the shop once and asked them to check the engine alignment. The service manager and tech stood there like I was speaking in a foreign language. The tech asked me, How do you that? Obee Kay Bee........I was in a Chrysler Dealership and these guys clearly didn't know what I was talking about. Told em to forget it. I did it at home using the Haynes manual. I was tripped up and did a lot head scratching until I looked at the measurements on the ruler in the pic. Thanks Dante for putting the correct info out there!

[occasional demons]

Adding this, instead of making another sticky...

RIGHT MOUNT
REMOVAL
NOTE: The right engine mount attaching holes are
slightly oversize to compensate for manufacturing
tolerances. The mount has been set at the manufacturing
plant for proper powertrain alignment. Therefore,
it is necessary to mark the position of the
mount before the attaching bolts are loosened.
(2) Using a permanent ink marker or equivalent,
mark the position of engine mount to the body frame
rail.
(3) Remove bolts attaching mount to body (Fig.
99).
(4) Lower engine with jack.
(5) Postion right engine mount into timing belt
cover hole (Fig. 100).
(6) Raise engine with jack.
(7) Remove mount between engine and body frame
rail. Mount removal may require engine position to
be raised or lowered to allow mount removal clearance



INSTALLATION
(1) Postion right engine mount into timing belt
cover hole (Fig. 100).
(2) Lower engine with jack.
(3) Position the mount into the original position on
body frame rail (Fig. 99).
NOTE: Engine mount must be installed in the original
position on body frame rail. If mount was not
marked or frame rail was replaced, perform the following
procedure.
(4) Perform the following procedure if mount position
was not previously marked or the frame rail was
replaced:
(a) Insert the new mount loosely in frame rail.
(b) Align the four holes in the mount with the
mating holes in the rail such that the holes are
concentric (frame rail holes centered in the mount
holes).
(c) Using a permanent ink marker or equivalent,
mark the position of engine mount to the body
frame rail while maintaining mounting hole concentricity.
(5) Ensure the mount maintains originally marked
position and install mount bolts. Tighten bolts to 28
N·m (250 in. lbs.) (Fig. 99).
(6) Raise engine with jack.
(7) Install the engine mount bracket (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE MOUNTING/ENGINE MOUNT
BRACKET - INSTALLATION).
(8 ) Perform torque strut adjustment procedure
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE MOUNTING/
TORQUE STRUT - ADJUSTMENTS).

[NickKo]

Adding this, instead of making another sticky...

Good idea.


- Nick