turn signal

MrAngry · Post by **MrAngry** » Thu Aug 06, 2009 6:31 pm

Sorry don't have much time and im a noob, and i searched a bit on here, but how the hell do you remove the turn signals? there's like a little tab but i cant pull it or maybe not trying hard enough.

[DJ]Tomski · Post by **[DJ]Tomski** » Thu Aug 06, 2009 7:27 pm

just turn the socket like you'd be unscrewing something. you'll probably hear a click.
unless you're talking about the side markers. in that case, yes, there is a tab that you just pull off and the side marker will come right out.

MrAngry · Post by **MrAngry** » Thu Aug 06, 2009 9:04 pm

Yea the side marker :p, thanks. Oh and a little off topic, don't want to start a new topic. But what's the best way to put on a clear coat, every time I do it, it never comes out smooth, just kinda spotty looking.

Post by **occasional demons** » Thu Aug 06, 2009 9:21 pm

That's called "Fisheye". The surface is prolly not clean enough. Plastic can be a PITA sometimes. If it is possible, use some soap based degreaser (simple green/castrol super clean)and scrub it, then wet sand. Sometimes wet sanding with the degreaser in the water is needed.

Metals are usually much easier to prep. At least that's my experience. Stronger solvent based degreasers can be applied to metal.

MrAngry · Post by **MrAngry** » Thu Aug 06, 2009 9:24 pm

Would it be wise at all, to not put any clear on the tails after shading them?

heydockyle · Post by **heydockyle** » Fri Aug 07, 2009 12:13 am

It was to humid here when I did mine so they got milky looking and stayed like that. Ended up sanding it down, retinting. Then wetsanding and it is nice and glossy and looks good.

bigbird · Post by **bigbird** » Fri Aug 07, 2009 6:58 am

occasional demons wrote:That's called "Fisheye". The surface is prolly not clean enough. Plastic can be a PITA sometimes. If it is possible, use some soap based degreaser (simple green/castrol super clean)and scrub it, then wet sand. Sometimes wet sanding with the degreaser in the water is needed.

Metals are usually much easier to prep. At least that's my experience. Stronger solvent based degreasers can be applied to metal.

[DJ]Tomski · Post by **[DJ]Tomski** » Fri Aug 07, 2009 12:22 pm

MrAngry wrote:Would it be wise at all, to not put any clear on the tails after shading them?

there's no problem with that. they will still be glossy but might start fading from the sun sooner than if you had a clear coat

Post by **racer12306** » Fri Aug 07, 2009 12:27 pm

I didn't clear my sidemarkers and they are holding up pretty well after 2.5 years or so.

I've never had any luck clearing stuff. Messed up two model bodies because after clearing it wrinkled right up.

bigbird · Post by **bigbird** » Fri Aug 07, 2009 1:08 pm

racer12306 wrote:I didn't clear my sidemarkers and they are holding up pretty well after 2.5 years or so.

I've never had any luck clearing stuff. Messed up two model bodies because after clearing it wrinkled right up.

You should use the same brand and type of clear as the base color. Also spray the clear within 10-15 of spraying the color.

Post by **racer12306** » Fri Aug 07, 2009 1:09 pm

Good info. I was just using cheap clear.

But it's just model's so I doubt I'll even mess with it. I still haven't finished that model. Had to buy another kit just for the body, pissed me off. Also have a purple cuda waiting to be finished, only been 3 years or so.

bigbird · Post by **bigbird** » Fri Aug 07, 2009 4:05 pm

LOL, I have a Plymouth Duster model that is 90% finished for 7 years. After my son grabbed it and chewed the wheels, I never finished it.

MrAngry · Post by **MrAngry** » Fri Aug 07, 2009 4:57 pm

Lol now were talking about models, I have the same problem with them, and the clear im using is pretty good, I didn't mess it up, made by dupli color. But back to the actual turn signals, my fuse keeps blowing on the turns, hazards, and brakes. I'm hoping its not the mfs, like everybody keeps having troubles with, any suggestions though?

MrAngry · Post by **MrAngry** » Sat Aug 08, 2009 4:43 pm

Nevermind, I figured it out, the bolt thing for the taillight was crimping the brake/turn light wires