bodywork question for the pros

sidepipe87 · Post by **sidepipe87** » Wed Aug 19, 2009 4:50 pm

As some of you know I'm in the process of molding an AVS spoiler to a trunk lid. The lid was taken down to bare metal first, the spoiler was attached and fiberglass mat and jelly was laid over that. Now I've got it in body filler. After I get it all sanded smooth can I spray bomb it with some primer to check for imperfections? I plan on having the trunk sprayed at a body shop and I just want to know what state I should have it in so that it is ready for them to shoot their sealer/primer/paint whatever. Thanks

dtjackten · Post by **dtjackten** » Wed Aug 19, 2009 5:04 pm

well i did the same thing u are doing, and i just rattle caned it... use GOOD primer though, and make sure it is VERY dry before sanding it!!! then sanded it down till it was almost perfect, then i took it to my friend that looked it over and i shot it with a sealer , filler primer, after scuffing the rattle can primer down...... then he shot it black... turned out good...

sidepipe87 · Post by **sidepipe87** » Wed Aug 19, 2009 5:18 pm

Awesome man. What would you consider to be good primer? Suggestions?

dtjackten · Post by **dtjackten** » Wed Aug 19, 2009 5:22 pm

i used the duplicolor sandable primer, i got it at advance for about 5 dollars a can... i would not go with high build in a rattle can if u plan on having someone spray it...

sidepipe87 · Post by **sidepipe87** » Wed Aug 19, 2009 5:23 pm

Awesome, I have some duplicolor I was planning on using, and it's not high build.

dtjackten · Post by **dtjackten** » Wed Aug 19, 2009 5:24 pm

go with that then!!! how is progress coming?

sidepipe87 · Post by **sidepipe87** » Wed Aug 19, 2009 5:26 pm

check my progress log, pics are up.

dtjackten · Post by **dtjackten** » Wed Aug 19, 2009 5:28 pm

lol, hahahaa, i just did, and posted... lol

benzsxt · Post by **benzsxt** » Wed Aug 19, 2009 11:46 pm

Upol is the best rattle can primer and send it to the shop after sanding with 400

theTeejmiester · Post by **theTeejmiester** » Thu Aug 20, 2009 12:22 am

upol is okay, this is the best for a rattle canned high build primer, it is a 2k with hardener vs that duplicolor crap which is solvent based

http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/spray-m ... 14524.aspx

dtjackten · Post by **dtjackten** » Thu Aug 20, 2009 8:07 am

all he is looking for is something to see inperfections with, that is why duplicoler will be fine... that is what i used and when i sent it to the shop to get painted the trunk had little to no primer even on it... u sand most of it off anyway

kornholio788 · Post by **kornholio788** » Thu Aug 20, 2009 9:36 am

dtjackten wrote:all he is looking for is something to see inperfections with, that is why duplicoler will be fine... that is what i used and when i sent it to the shop to get painted the trunk had little to no primer even on it... u sand most of it off anyway

]

I am saying this in the nicest way possible. Please don't give him anymore suggestions because everything you are saying is wrong.

After your bondo work is done spray it with a high build quality(2 part is best) primer filler. This will give you some build and will 1. show you what you need to work on, and 2. Fill in some spots and some sand scratches.

Sand that and hit it again. If you still have more work to do then do it then primer it again. if not then you can wet sand the primer with 500-600 grit. Then you are done.

If you are merely trying to find the bad spots and don't plan on filling any use a guide coat. IT is sold in cans or in a powder. If you are using primer as a guide coat you are wasting time, money, and work.

dtjackten · Post by **dtjackten** » Thu Aug 20, 2009 9:56 am

we shot it with a sealer FILLER primer at the shop, sorry i edited the above post, and the way i did it mine turned out great... sanded the filler primer down and shot it black...

sorry for the confusion

kornholio788 · Post by **kornholio788** » Thu Aug 20, 2009 12:07 pm

dtjackten wrote:we shot it with a sealer FILLER primer at the shop, sorry i edited the above post, and the way i did it mine turned out great... sanded the filler primer down and shot it black...

sorry for the confusion

There is no such product as a sealer filler primer. It is either a primer sealer. Or a primer filler. The sealer will fill some yes, but it is a very different product and is used much differently than a filler.

dtjackten · Post by **dtjackten** » Thu Aug 20, 2009 1:13 pm

maybe it was just a filler primer we used.... it was a very thick primer that we used, but i had most of the sandscratches out before i ever shot it with primer

sidepipe87 · Post by **sidepipe87** » Thu Aug 20, 2009 1:35 pm

thanks everyone. I'll let you know how it goes when I get there. more sanding to do haha. I had to buy a new air board because the one my dad gave me to use took a crap and isn't working properly anymore. arghh.

benzsxt · Post by **benzsxt** » Thu Aug 20, 2009 6:20 pm

Sidepipe- If you are intersted I will sell you a Hutchins air file. Mine had to go in for repairs and I needed one so I bought an identical one.

dtjackten- it sounds like they used Marhyde. It sprays thick and the Korn knows his paint!

SOKADAO954 · Post by **SOKADAO954** » Thu Aug 20, 2009 6:44 pm

benzsxt wrote:Korn knows his paint!

End of thread.

QFTMFW !!

Thanks ben.

sidepipe87 · Post by **sidepipe87** » Tue Jun 29, 2010 4:40 pm

holy bump, batman!

So almost a year later and I'm ready to actually send this off to paint. Question. Can I spray the primer I shot with a primer sealer and wetsand that and send it to the painter like that, or should I not even do that? I was under the impression I should seal off the primer I shot so they can do whatever they are gonna do with it over that. Advice please!

a23dranger?, benz (u still around??), Korn? anyone that isn't a noob?!

UriahRR · Post by **UriahRR** » Tue Jun 29, 2010 4:58 pm

^a23dranger is currently doing all the prep and paint work for my car. Hopefully it will be ready for Calrisle. He's a great dude to deal with.

Hope your trunk is done by Carlisle, man.

sidepipe87 · Post by **sidepipe87** » Tue Jun 29, 2010 6:08 pm

UriahRR wrote:^a23dranger is currently doing all the prep and paint work for my car. Hopefully it will be ready for Calrisle. He's a great dude to deal with.

Hope your trunk is done by Carlisle, man.

It won't be.. The painter can't take it until the day after I get back from Carlisle. Oh well.

a23dranger · Post by **a23dranger** » Tue Jun 29, 2010 9:44 pm

sidepipe87 wrote:Can I spray the primer I shot with a primer sealer and wetsand that and send it to the painter like that, or should I not even do that? I was under the impression I should seal off the primer I shot so they can do whatever they are gonna do with it over that. Advice please!

a23dranger?, benz (u still around??), Korn? anyone that isn't a noob?!

first off what kind of primer did you lay down and what kind of primer sealer where you gunna use?

Also did you break threw the primer in to the body work??? if not.. finish it off with like 600 and send it to the painter. if you broke threw to any bare metal, body filler or just want to make sure you have a good solid base to do the final prep you can spray some sealer over it.. Then same thing.. sand it with like 600...

Uriah's cars prepped with 600 and a gray scuff pad.. ready to shoot.. and the primed areas where sanded with 400 and a red scuff pad.. Its what we do at work.. Some ppl will argue on how to prep and what grits but hey its whatwe do at work and do on all my stuff and have never had issues..

UriahRR · Post by **UriahRR** » Tue Jun 29, 2010 10:03 pm

Well, the body shop I went to today approved of your work. The only thing he said was he would probably put a sealer on it.

I don't really care at this point. I just NEED it all one color by next Thursday. The hard thing is I get paid next Tuesday...

a23dranger · Post by **a23dranger** » Tue Jun 29, 2010 10:18 pm

UriahRR wrote:Well, the body shop I went to today approved of your work. The only thing he said was he would probably put a sealer on it.

I don't really care at this point. I just NEED it all one color by next Thursday. The hard thing is I get paid next Tuesday...

our painter would put a colored sealer on the hood and skirts..... i.e black so it takes less base to cover.. that or if there was spots sanded threw..

btw monday should be a go for shooting your car man at my coworkers garage

sucks i dont have a big enough compressor at the moment to do it for you at my place.. Once i do we will take on the door jambs.. maybe do that dohc head swap and bay tuck.. and while we are at that we can spray the bay..

UriahRR · Post by **UriahRR** » Tue Jun 29, 2010 10:34 pm

a23dranger wrote:
UriahRR wrote:Well, the body shop I went to today approved of your work. The only thing he said was he would probably put a sealer on it.

I don't really care at this point. I just NEED it all one color by next Thursday. The hard thing is I get paid next Tuesday...
our painter would put a colored sealer on the hood and skirts..... i.e black so it takes less base to cover.. that or if there was spots sanded threw..

btw monday should be a go for shooting your car man at my coworkers garage

sucks i dont have a big enough compressor at the moment to do it for you at my place.. Once i do we will take on the door jambs.. maybe do that dohc head swap and bay tuck.. and while we are at that we can spray the bay..

Hell yea. Cool for Monday, I'd drop it off Sunday then. PM'd about it my man.

sidepipe87 · Post by **sidepipe87** » Wed Jun 30, 2010 3:13 pm

Well I'm ashamed to say I have no gun, and it's just Dupli-Color high build primer blocked down and ready to be shot with sealer. And no, I didn't break through the primer. I'll let the painter do what he wants with it.

kornholio788 · Post by **kornholio788** » Thu Jul 01, 2010 7:38 pm

a23dranger wrote:
sidepipe87 wrote:Can I spray the primer I shot with a primer sealer and wetsand that and send it to the painter like that, or should I not even do that? I was under the impression I should seal off the primer I shot so they can do whatever they are gonna do with it over that. Advice please!

a23dranger?, benz (u still around??), Korn? anyone that isn't a noob?!

first off what kind of primer did you lay down and what kind of primer sealer where you gunna use?

Also did you break threw the primer in to the body work??? if not.. finish it off with like 600 and send it to the painter. if you broke threw to any bare metal, body filler or just want to make sure you have a good solid base to do the final prep you can spray some sealer over it.. Then same thing.. sand it with like 600...

Uriah's cars prepped with 600 and a gray scuff pad.. ready to shoot.. and the primed areas where sanded with 400 and a gray scuff pad.. Its what we do at work.. Some ppl will argue on how to prep and what grits but hey its whatwe do at work and do on all my stuff and have never had issues..

Just saw this thread now. Sorry I didn't reach you in time. Just FYI a grey scuff pad is equivalent to 1000 grit. Red is about 400 or so. So that is a mistake if your shop is doing that. Your jobber can explain further.

Glad to hear you got it completed and to your painter. I hope you left it the way it was and let him seal it. Should turn out nice as I am sure your painter will take care of any imperfections that were left before he squirts color on it.

a23dranger · Post by **a23dranger** » Thu Jul 01, 2010 8:00 pm

kornholio788 wrote:
a23dranger wrote:
sidepipe87 wrote:Can I spray the primer I shot with a primer sealer and wetsand that and send it to the painter like that, or should I not even do that? I was under the impression I should seal off the primer I shot so they can do whatever they are gonna do with it over that. Advice please!

a23dranger?, benz (u still around??), Korn? anyone that isn't a noob?!

first off what kind of primer did you lay down and what kind of primer sealer where you gunna use?

Also did you break threw the primer in to the body work??? if not.. finish it off with like 600 and send it to the painter. if you broke threw to any bare metal, body filler or just want to make sure you have a good solid base to do the final prep you can spray some sealer over it.. Then same thing.. sand it with like 600...

Uriah's cars prepped with 600 and a gray scuff pad.. ready to shoot.. and the primed areas where sanded with 400 and a gray scuff pad.. Its what we do at work.. Some ppl will argue on how to prep and what grits but hey its whatwe do at work and do on all my stuff and have never had issues..
Just saw this thread now. Sorry I didn't reach you in time. Just FYI a grey scuff pad is equivalent to 1000 grit. Red is about 400 or so. So that is a mistake if your shop is doing that. Your jobber can explain further.

Glad to hear you got it completed and to your painter. I hope you left it the way it was and let him seal it. Should turn out nice as I am sure your painter will take care of any imperfections that were left before he squirts color on it.

Hey thats what our paint supplier says to do and is part of our s.o.p's.. Gold scuffy on raw plastic bumpers as well.

And me and my painter from work are now spraying uriahs car at his garage.

sidepipe87 · Post by **sidepipe87** » Thu Jul 01, 2010 8:19 pm

Well as I stated, it's not too late. It doesn't go to paint until the 12th... So why is it better that I don't seal it? Just because he might not like my work and will want to do more sanding/filler first? Explain.

kornholio788 · Post by **kornholio788** » Thu Jul 01, 2010 11:00 pm

No. Because unless you are gonna paint it right then you are simply wasting the painters time. I am assuming you are using a DA sander. If you are you can simply finish off the primer filler with like 400 grit. You can even get away with 320. Sanding your lid all the way up to 600 if he plans on sealing is not the best idea. As the sealer likes a little grittier scratches to grab onto. The sealer will fill 320(with proper DA and pad) and 400 grit scratches with ease.

He is going to check over your work(not saying you did a bad job just saying) and make sure there isn't any last sanding to do. He will then use a quality sealer and do a wet on wet application with the base coat.

So in a quick explanation if you seal it now yourself he isn't going to be able to spray it wet on wet(which means he is going to have to let it dry all the way.) One of the main bonuses of sealer is that you can spray it, let it flash off for an hour, not touch it and spray your base coat right on top of it. The advantage is that this creates a chemical bond instead of a physical bond(I.E. the paint "combining with the sealer" instead of grabbing onto the sand scratches in order to stick good) You only have a 12 hour window with most sealers to spray your base coat right on top before you have to sand it.

a23dranger not trying to start a flame war here but for lack of a better word your supplier is....wrong. I am 3M certified in almost all of their main products. That is not the proper procedure. It may work. But not the best way to go about it. I am frightened about the work that goes out of your shop if you are telling him to seal it then sand it. Sealer is NOT meant to be sanded at all. It can be yes. But it is not meant to be. Not to insult you dude but ask your shop to send you to school to learn your products a little better. Your jobs will get done much more efficiently and will last longer. You will also be using less material and in turn saving the shop money instead of wasting sealer.

So...Clifs.

1. Primer filler it(if you haven't already)
2. Sand it with say like 200)
3. Reprime
4. Resand it wet(if you don't know what wet sanding is just google it. It is nothing more than sanding with water) with 400 grit.
5. If you see no imperfections and it looks great and you didn't sand through to body filler then you are all done! Even if you did it isn't a huge deal at all because he is sealing it. Which will give you a great single colored base to work off of. Send it to the painter and you will have it back in no time as all he has to do is clean it, wax and grease remover it, seal it, base it, and clear it and hes done!