2001 Hydraulic Clutch Question.

Cbussilver01es · Post by **Cbussilver01es** » Wed Aug 26, 2009 3:59 pm

Hey all I have a question. When I had the small fire it, melted my hydraulic line for the clutch slave cylinder. My question is what size is the hard plastic line that leads to the slave cylinder and how can I replace it? Do I need to by a whole new assembly or can I just by hardlines from like the auto parts store or something? Also what is the little disc looking thing with the hose barbs on it, that is between the Master & Slave cylinder

silverneontuner · Post by **silverneontuner** » Wed Aug 26, 2009 9:11 pm

just buy a new onel.

Post by **occasional demons** » Wed Aug 26, 2009 11:35 pm

I think a new assy is the only way they are sold.

4668331AB ACTUATOR, Hydraulic Clutch, Slave Cylinder $153.00

4668631AD ACTUATOR, Hydraulic Clutch, Clutch Master Cylinder $118.00

The two halves separate where it clips together at the bell housing. I think they even come prefilled with fluid.

You can get them a little cheaper here

Cbussilver01es · Post by **Cbussilver01es** » Thu Aug 27, 2009 3:59 pm

ok let me rephrase that, it didnt completely melt it, it actually melted a hole in the line and every time I pressed the clutch fluid would spew out so I cut the hardline out where it connects on bell housing I still have the line leading to slave cylinder and master cylinder, its just not connected to the lil thing on the bell housing. I can't necessarily afford a new one right now.

Post by **occasional demons** » Sun Aug 30, 2009 10:27 am

Sorry, I missed your reply.

IDK exactly what the disk does. Maybe a dampner? If you got it bypassed via some compression fitttings or a brake line style set up, then I can't see why it won't work, as long as it will bleed the air out.

Cbussilver01es · Post by **Cbussilver01es** » Tue Sep 01, 2009 8:37 pm

Ok so after trying to bleed the slave cylinder my clutch is still really soft. Ive read other places that you have to buy the whole thing as an assembly from Chrysler? Is that true? Im so lost, I keep finding one thing after another wrong with this car. I don't get it HELP!!!

r/tguy02 · Post by **r/tguy02** » Thu Sep 03, 2009 2:03 pm

ok, i feel your frustration. i didnt know what that disc thing was either when i went to replace my clutch slave and master cyl. it is in fact a damper put in the line, the haynes manual makes no mention of it. i think the fsm does though. at any rate you must unbolt it from the transmission so that it can be turned horozontally while bleeding to properly bleed the system out. otherwise some air stays trapped. go through the steps like before to bleed the line just ensure that you turn the damper to allow air bubbles to escape.

if it still isnt building pressure i'd make sure you sealed the line properly and look into replacing the slave and master cyl for the clutch.

as for replacing the items, the slave cyl comes as a whole unit with the pushrod (if you replace this let me know, theres a few tips to doing it) it does not include any lines. the master cyl comes the same way but it is straight foreward as far as installation goes. Both of them can be bought from a part store
the lines themselves i believe are sold with the damper and i dont know if you can even get it from a parts store, you may have to go to the dealer for that item

r/tguy02 · Post by **r/tguy02** » Thu Sep 03, 2009 2:22 pm

i just did a little searching on rock auto. they sell the whole assembly for one price. It includes: reservoir, lines, master cyl, slave cyl, and damper for 164$

thats the only way you can get the lines that i've found unless you go to the dealer like i said.

Post by **occasional demons** » Thu Sep 03, 2009 3:28 pm

Hmmm, the factory parts shows the lines as part of each assy.

I think he was going to/did remove the damper. I don't know if it will bleed without it or not.

Speculation/SWAG:
If the line disconnects from the slave, I would try to gravity bleed it if the damper is gone. Maybe put the slave in a pail full of brake fluid and pump it first to get the air out, then gravity bleed the lines and hook it to the slave with the fluid running out the line. Messy, but it might work. You may need a helper to ensure the resivior stays full.

r/tguy02 · Post by **r/tguy02** » Thu Sep 03, 2009 3:36 pm

i assure you the lines dont come with the master or slave cyl when you buy them. reason being is they can be disconnected as you well know so they never saw a need to include them. unless he gets the above master set he wont get the lines.

if the damper is removed i see no reason why it wouldnt bleed properly just doing it like normal. you could do it your way however he would still need to bleed the slave cyl the normal way because the air would be trapped at the bottom. the slave cyl has to be compressed to install. it might take less time to work the little bit of air out that way though

Post by **occasional demons** » Thu Sep 03, 2009 5:27 pm

This is what I was going from:

As you can see they point to the line for the reference number (#5 and #15)

And from the '04 parts:
04668331AC 1 C, D ECC, ECH DD5 CYLINDER, Clutch Slave, With
Tube

I think you got ripped off.

r/tguy02 · Post by **r/tguy02** » Thu Sep 03, 2009 9:25 pm

i take it you looked that up in your parts catalog for dodge (i dont have a parts catalog so i'm in the dark on that one), thats fine that might be how dodge sells it, and you're probably going to pay a premium price for it too. all the parts places i've looked at or been to sell just the individual pieces without the lines. just my experience...
I find it funny the parts catalog didnt mention that damper either

OP let us know how you make out.

Post by **occasional demons** » Thu Sep 03, 2009 10:46 pm

r/tguy02 wrote: I find it funny the parts catalog didnt mention that damper either .

It is part of the Slave Assy. It is shown in that drawing, just below. You get what you pay for. The oem parts come pre filled, and ready to go. It may cost more, but if you were paying someone by the hour to install it, it may equal out.

r/tguy02 · Post by **r/tguy02** » Fri Sep 04, 2009 8:06 am

oh ok, it was in a different diagram gotcha. thats nice that they come prefilled, didnt know they did that.

Post by **occasional demons** » Fri Sep 04, 2009 9:46 am

That's why this site is here, so we can help each other out. I never really looked at the aftermarket stuff before now either, knowing how the oem set up was. It didn't really click that when you said the lines weren't available, that you didn't include oem parts.

But Cbussilver01es has a unique problem so hopefully the info will help him solve it. Because eventually there will be no more tubing available from the dealer, and we will need this info. If I get a chance this evening, I will measure the diameter of the tubing, to see if it will fit any common fittings. But with out a bleeder on the slave cyl, it will stil be a PITA to bleed.

Cbussilver01es · Post by **Cbussilver01es** » Tue Sep 08, 2009 8:38 pm

Yea Im still dealing with this problem, I had/ still have to walk away from this car b4 I throw a brick through its windshield... I ended up buying a new slave cylinder, but by the looks of it, I just ended up wasting my money... Im lost, oh and on top of it all, I thought I bled the system, started my car up and heard this awful grinding noise and then I shut it off, and now it wont even start... this sucks, I never want to go through the process of turbocharching a car EVER again...

r/tguy02 · Post by **r/tguy02** » Tue Sep 08, 2009 9:01 pm

did you install the slave cyl? or did you run into problems. theres a few things you need to do before installing it. lmk i'll guide you through it.

as for the engine, sorry to hear that man

Cbussilver01es · Post by **Cbussilver01es** » Sat Sep 12, 2009 12:46 pm

also, I have another quick question, I was having no problem starting my car a little while ago while all these current problems were evident, but now it wont start and I raised the car up on jackstands so I could get under it, and then I put the car in gear. Now the cars wheels will turn with no problem or resistance while the car is shut off and in all gears!

why is this happening? I know once you park the car in gear on an incline its not going to roll back, but in my case it is, so I put the brake on hoping that it would hold. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

r/tguy02 · Post by **r/tguy02** » Sat Sep 12, 2009 3:01 pm

sounds like your clutch isnt engaging. what happens when you push the clutch down?