positive battery cable/harness

rseldner · Post by **rseldner** » Sat Aug 29, 2009 1:40 pm

car just started to get screwey on me when trying to turn it on. I would just click but not turn. Thought i had a starter problem again but then realized it has something to do with the positive battery cable. After jiggling it a bit i can get the car to turn on. The terminal is clean so it seems to be something with the wires themselves. what do i need to replace them? and is this a job I can do myself?

rseldner · Post by **rseldner** » Sat Aug 29, 2009 2:34 pm

it's a 2000 model btw

NickKo · Post by **NickKo** » Sat Aug 29, 2009 3:11 pm

rseldner wrote:car just started to get screwey on me when trying to turn it on. I would just click but not turn. Thought i had a starter problem again but then realized it has something to do with the positive battery cable. After jiggling it a bit i can get the car to turn on. The terminal is clean so it seems to be something with the wires themselves. what do i need to replace them? and is this a job I can do myself?

More likely than not, you just need to CLEAN and TIGHTEN your battery terminal connectors.

- Nick

rseldner · Post by **rseldner** » Sat Aug 29, 2009 3:56 pm

The terminal is clean

and does not need to be tightened. I've checked twice today.

excon · Post by **excon** » Sat Aug 29, 2009 3:58 pm

needs a new battery.

rseldner · Post by **rseldner** » Sat Aug 29, 2009 4:21 pm

is this all i need? http://shop.oreillyauto.com/productdeta ... 78&PTSet=A

rseldner · Post by **rseldner** » Sat Aug 29, 2009 4:58 pm

needs a new battery.

wow. i'm not asking what you think problem might be. I KNOW it's the battery CABLE. i've personally never replaced one sooo that's why i'm here, asking about what parts i may need, and what i need to do.

NickKo · Post by **NickKo** » Sat Aug 29, 2009 5:01 pm

rseldner wrote:is this all i need? http://shop.oreillyauto.com/productdeta ... 78&PTSet=A

The link takes us to a search by Zip Code page.....

How about this ??

http://shop.oreillyauto.com/product_ima ... 8456cr.jpg

Your wire may be fried / corroded / broken internally.
Do you have an ohmmeter, to test it ?

- Nick

Post by **occasional demons** » Sat Aug 29, 2009 5:59 pm

What sucks about the oem connector is it tees off to power the starter and PDC. It is prety easy to tell if it is corroded at the connection, as it's just crimped on and not insulated at that point. Check the starter end to see if it is loose. Are you getting good power to the PDC, and just the starter is acting up?

The whole battery harness is serviced from Mopar. You have to buy both negative and postive leads together.
PN# 4793571AH MSRP $93.95 You could get a nice double connector terminal much cheaper, and run new wires with eye lugs crimped on for less.

rseldner · Post by **rseldner** » Sat Aug 29, 2009 8:20 pm

YES...that's what i was trying to link you guys to

the wire does look a bit corroded near the connection. Can't i just use the cable pictured above instead of having to fork out 90+ on the harness?

Post by **occasional demons** » Sun Aug 30, 2009 10:47 am

As long as that smaller red wire is the same gauge as what is on the current harness. (8 gauge IIRC) It should work for the PDC. If it is only 10 or 12 gauge, then it might melt under full demand from the PDC. Like I said, you could always upgrade to a better terminal clamp.

There is this stye, that you could just crimp new eyes onto your existing cables. I would replace the wing with a regular nut tho.

AutoZone Part Number:1254
Or
BT705

rseldner · Post by **rseldner** » Sun Aug 30, 2009 5:28 pm

actually, I already replaced the wire to the PDC a few months ago. Here's what it all looks like. The black cable goes to the PDC. The red goes down to the starter. If you look at the red cable, the portion that is exposed looks corroded and some of the filaments are broken. I'm convinced that this is what is causing the problem.

Post by **occasional demons** » Sun Aug 30, 2009 10:58 pm

I would almost gaurantee that is the trouble.

Cut that eye lug off, and if possible crimp and solder a new one on, (a torch will be needed to heat the lug enough to solder.) It is tricky, getting it to tin, but not fry the insulation. The solder keeps it from filling with acid, and corroding. Getting a positive crimp without the right tool will be impossible.

Or just buy a commercially made cable to replace the battery to starter cable. That is the route I would take. Just cover the end with dielectric grease, and get some HD shrink tubing to slide over the lug. Once heated it will use the grease to seal the crimp.

rseldner · Post by **rseldner** » Mon Aug 31, 2009 4:10 pm

Or just buy a commercially made cable to replace the battery to starter cable. That is the route I would take. Just cover the end with dielectric grease, and get some HD shrink tubing to slide over the lug. Once heated it will use the grease to seal the crimp.

this is precisely what I was aiming to do. I'm just not too sure what kind of cable to use. Also, the connection at the started looks kinda funky and inaccessible from the top. Any pointers on what cable to use and replacing the cable?

jT · Post by jT » Mon Aug 31, 2009 6:38 pm

the starter connection is indeed weird, but a normal eye ring will go on it just fine

getting the plastic cover off is a PITA, i broke mine and didnt put it back on, but once its off its only a 14mm nut (or something around that size, i forget) to take the cable off.

its accessible from the top but very difficult. i had to reach my arm in behind the manifold thing and get a socket on the nut.. not easy to do but possible!

rseldner · Post by **rseldner** » Mon Aug 31, 2009 7:02 pm

awesome! that's precisely what i needed to know about the plastic cover. I wasn't quite sure if it had some sort of special connection.

Now... given the correct length, will any battery cable with eye rings on both ends do? Also, I noticed that there are a couple of what appear to be grounding wires coming from the starter cable. Are those going to be an issue?

I'm such a noob...lol

nineball · Post by **nineball** » Mon Aug 31, 2009 11:00 pm

if you are going to redo all the wiring pick up a set of these:

you can get them in almost any configuration needed. the ones pictured have two 4g and two 8g connections.

jrumann59 · Post by **jrumann59** » Tue Sep 01, 2009 12:03 am

nineball wrote:if you are going to redo all the wiring pick up a set of these:

you can get them in almost any configuration needed. the ones pictured have two 4g and two 8g connections.

It also makes life so much easier when you need to add stuff without disconnecting the battery.

rseldner · Post by **rseldner** » Tue Sep 01, 2009 1:28 am

bump for my last 2 questions ...

given the correct length, will any battery cable with eye rings on both ends do? Also, I noticed that there are a couple of what appear to be grounding wires coming from the starter cable. Are those going to be an issue?

nineball · Post by **nineball** » Tue Sep 01, 2009 9:12 am

any power cable will do so long as it is the same gauge as the stock wiring, or bigger.

check the ground wires to see if they are in good condition or not. no one can tell you if they will be an issue without checking the car first.

Post by **occasional demons** » Tue Sep 01, 2009 9:47 am

One wire goes to the alternator. The small wire is from the starter relay. My starter has no ground cables attached. It grounds through the bellhousing.

Edit: Just match the wire size you have. 8 ga. IIRC

nineball · Post by **nineball** » Tue Sep 01, 2009 11:09 am

yes, it is an 8g wire. runs from the battery to the starter and then on to the alt. that wire then has a "T" junction just at the battery to the line that runs to the fuse box.

2GN.ORG

positive battery cable/harness

positive battery cable/harness

Re: positive battery cable/harness