Intake manifold removal

oberdahill · Post by **oberdahill** » Sat Sep 26, 2009 8:58 pm

2002 SXT 98K miles. I had a piece of tin foil get sucked into the intake manifold. It was 12 inches long but 8 inches wide (folded over to 2 inches in width). I was on top of the upper radiator hose and either fell or the vaccuum pulled it through when the motor was started. I believe it's too large to get past the valve so the intake manifold might need to come off to retrieve the item. Is there a "how to" with step by step procedure for removal and re-installation? So much for cleaning the TB.

gilly02le · Post by **gilly02le** » Sun Sep 27, 2009 8:57 am

try a grabber tool for picking up bolts and stuff that are in hard to reach places. They can usually be bought at a dollar store.

oberdahill · Post by **oberdahill** » Sun Sep 27, 2009 1:11 pm

gilly02le wrote:try a grabber tool for picking up bolts and stuff that are in hard to reach places. They can usually be bought at a dollar store.

I tried that and can't feel it so it might be wedged at one of the intake ports.

Post by **occasional demons** » Sun Sep 27, 2009 1:18 pm

IDK if it would have made it into the runner(s) but try removing the bellows tube from the manifold inlet, and possibly the air box, and look into the manifold. It might be stuck in one or more runner inlets. Then you can also clean some of the oil out of it while you're there.

Hopefully, the oil puddle got a hold of it, and it is stuck to the bottom.

Edit: Nevermind, I took too long!

If you need to remove the IM, disconnect the battery and clean around the injectors.
Unlock all the red tabs on all connectors before attempting removal.
Disconnect the injector harness from the injectors.
Then the injector rail needs the two screws removed, and swung out of the way. Just pull it straight up working the injectors out evenly. No need to disconnect the fuel line.
Then the MAP, and knock sensors need unhooked.
Now the PITA: The starter wires need disconnected.
Once you have all the wires out of the center of the IM, then there are two screws at the bottom, one each side. remove those, then the 5 screws holding it to the head.
The "o ring" gaskets can be reused, as long as they are still pliable and soft. I have reused mine numerous times with out issue. Or you can spend $20 to 30 for new ones.

I have prolly forgot something, but it is really simple. The main problem you will have, is getting some of the connectors to come off the sensors, if they have become brittle like mine. Half of mine don't lock anymore, because the plastic has broken off.

I took the time to reroute the starter to alternator wire out of the center and around the IM, so it wouldn't need removed for future IM "service". I also cut the soleniod wire and installed a connector by the injector area, so that one would not need to be dealt with either, as it will not come off the solenoid, due to the lock being broke.

Post by **occasional demons** » Sun Sep 27, 2009 1:23 pm

If it did get sucked through the engine, I don't know that it would do much. It would prolly just melt in the combustion chamber, or exhaust. Aluminum foil isn't very duarble in that aspect. If it isn't in the IM or intake port, it is prolly spread out in the exhaust in droplet form.

oberdahill · Post by **oberdahill** » Sun Sep 27, 2009 10:41 pm

occasional demons wrote:IDK if it would have made it into the runner(s) but try removing the bellows tube from the manifold inlet, and possibly the air box, and look into the manifold. It might be stuck in one or more runner inlets. Then you can also clean some of the oil out of it while you're there.
Hopefully, the oil puddle got a hold of it, and it is stuck to the bottom.

Edit: Nevermind, I took too long!

If you need to remove the IM, disconnect the battery and clean around the injectors.
Unlock all the red tabs on all connectors before attempting removal.
Disconnect the injector harness from the injectors.
Then the injector rail needs the two screws removed, and swung out of the way. Just pull it straight up working the injectors out evenly. No need to disconnect the fuel line.
Then the MAP, and knock sensors need unhooked.
Now the PITA: The starter wires need disconnected.
Once you have all the wires out of the center of the IM, then there are two screws at the bottom, one each side. remove those, then the 5 screws holding it to the head.
The "o ring" gaskets can be reused, as long as they are still pliable and soft. I have reused mine numerous times with out issue. Or you can spend $20 to 30 for new ones.

I have prolly forgot something, but it is really simple. The main problem you will have, is getting some of the connectors to come off the sensors, if they have become brittle like mine. Half of mine don't lock anymore, because the plastic has broken off.

I took the time to reroute the starter to alternator wire out of the center and around the IM, so it wouldn't need removed for future IM "service". I also cut the soleniod wire and installed a connector by the injector area, so that one would not need to be dealt with either, as it will not come off the solenoid, due to the lock being broke.

Do you remember what the torque is for the bolts?

Do you think it's safe to run as it is? I understand the metal is soft and normal driving should generate enough heat to disintegrate it any eventually cleanse it of any residue. Trying to be on the safe side and weigh the options of IM removal and reinstallation versus internal damage. If you think it's safe to operate, I'll run it for a bit then pull and replace the plugs so I can inspect them for damage as a matter of precaution.

ZeroChad · Post by **ZeroChad** » Mon Sep 28, 2009 12:12 am

In the chance that it is blocking one of the runner, I would take it off to be sure. It could also be screwing with your MAP sensor. This would be a great time to swap out your intake manifold gaskets. They tend to go bad and cause a nice vacuum leak.

Post by **occasional demons** » Mon Sep 28, 2009 9:44 am

As for torque, I don't recall off hand. I just snug them good. No need for overkill. Techncally you are not supposed to reuse the bolts either, but I have not had an issue with the o rings or bolts. Reused about three times.

Dimas · Post by **Dimas** » Mon Oct 19, 2009 12:29 am

Just took mine off for the damn starter replacement, Hanes manual says 150 in lbs for torque, from center out.

Mat · Post by **Mat** » Mon Oct 19, 2009 10:33 am

12.5 ft lbs is a tiny bit more than snug. I go by the "as tight as it felt to take it off" torque setting. Works okay for me.