Door Check Strap
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darthroush
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Door Check Strap
I went and got a new one today along with my alternator. Installed it and nothing. The other doors still work fine, though I'm having trouble believing that even the second one is bad (didn't really think the original one was either). How exactly do these things work? I see no connections or points of contact anywhere? I just need to know how to proceed from here since I have now wasted money on a new switch that wasn't the problem in the first place apparently.
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darthroush
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Found my answer, and the door check strap does nothing except keep the door from opening too far. I cannot see how riveting it together makes one bit of difference at this point either. The door check strap I got today was off of a 2001 Neon, so I would have to guess that this will apply to all 2000-2005 Neon's, if not the 1gn's as well.
I will be uploading pics and explaining the situation and the fix for it.
I will be uploading pics and explaining the situation and the fix for it.
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darthroush
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OK. The door check strap has no electrical connections, therefore can't possibly be the cause for an electrical problem with the car not registering "door open" or "lights on, car off" kind of thing.
*Not the problem*

Well, how about the wire than happens to run right next to the window track? Indeed Ken. Where does this all start you ask? Right here:

Then here:

Then to here:

Let's see what's going on in there...
First, remove this black piece of stuff:

Then use some needle nose pliers to get the clip out...

Remove the three T30 bolts holding the latch onto the door:

Then the two bolts holding the window track in (note the two smaller holes near the top and bottom and the now loosened window track out of the way):

Remove the clip from the latch itself now that you can actually move it forward a bit to reach:

Ah, there's the problem! The yellow/black wire runs right against the window track, and is apparently rubbed/bumped/moved enough by the window over the years to cause the connection to snap from being moved back and forth when the window goes up, down, up, down...

To fix: pull the little white piece out in the front of the clip with a pair of pliers. It will not come completely out of the plug either, just FYI. Use a small flat head screwdriver and push the connector out. Remove the old wire and install a new piece. I like to use heat-shrink as well to cover and seal everything up. Push the little connector back in the same way you removed it (the correct orientation).
The finished product. I couldn't find my mini-heat gun attachment for my mini-torch, and I got a little too close to the other wire once, but it works.

Reinstall the clip to the latch, then the latch itself. After that, reinstall the window track, taking care not to catch it on the wires.

Insert the key and...

Hey look! The door is really open! Who knew!? And guess what else...
LIGHT

Now quickly reassemble the door before the chiming drives you crazy...or remove the key from the ignition.
*Not the problem*

Well, how about the wire than happens to run right next to the window track? Indeed Ken. Where does this all start you ask? Right here:

Then here:

Then to here:

Let's see what's going on in there...
First, remove this black piece of stuff:

Then use some needle nose pliers to get the clip out...

Remove the three T30 bolts holding the latch onto the door:

Then the two bolts holding the window track in (note the two smaller holes near the top and bottom and the now loosened window track out of the way):

Remove the clip from the latch itself now that you can actually move it forward a bit to reach:

Ah, there's the problem! The yellow/black wire runs right against the window track, and is apparently rubbed/bumped/moved enough by the window over the years to cause the connection to snap from being moved back and forth when the window goes up, down, up, down...

To fix: pull the little white piece out in the front of the clip with a pair of pliers. It will not come completely out of the plug either, just FYI. Use a small flat head screwdriver and push the connector out. Remove the old wire and install a new piece. I like to use heat-shrink as well to cover and seal everything up. Push the little connector back in the same way you removed it (the correct orientation).
The finished product. I couldn't find my mini-heat gun attachment for my mini-torch, and I got a little too close to the other wire once, but it works.

Reinstall the clip to the latch, then the latch itself. After that, reinstall the window track, taking care not to catch it on the wires.

Insert the key and...

Hey look! The door is really open! Who knew!? And guess what else...
LIGHT

Now quickly reassemble the door before the chiming drives you crazy...or remove the key from the ignition.
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occasional demons
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Damn, you had me wondering where you were going with this. It seems more like a How To. Nice work!
And to kill the chiming, just close the latch with a screw driver/pencil to simulate the striker when the door is shut. But don't forget to release it, by pulling the hande before you close the door.
And to kill the chiming, just close the latch with a screw driver/pencil to simulate the striker when the door is shut. But don't forget to release it, by pulling the hande before you close the door.
Bill
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
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contagious18
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mmmm, im having the same problem, was this with your driver side door? it makes me mad i thought it was the door light switch but it wasnt either. ima have to check this when i get back from oxnard
Antagonist crew| Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #000031
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2569968
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http://contagious209.mybrute.com
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darthroush
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Thanks, lol. It wasn't meant to be a How-To at first, but curiosity got to me so I started tearing all of that plastic off and viola!occasional demons wrote:Damn, you had me wondering where you were going with this. It seems more like a How To. Nice work!
And to kill the chiming, just close the latch with a screw driver/pencil to simulate the striker when the door is shut. But don't forget to release it, by pulling the hande before you close the door.
contagious - Yes. Driver door. That check strap doesn't do anything except keep your door from opening into your fender apparently. That plug is what really controls it all.
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contagious18
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Ima have to check mine cus it's messing up mine
Antagonist crew| Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #000031
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2569968
http://contagious209.mybrute.com
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2569968
http://contagious209.mybrute.com
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darthroush
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- Joined: Tue Jul 14, 2009 2:14 am
- Location: People's Republic of Kalifornia
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darthroush
- 2GN Member
- Posts: 1637
- Joined: Tue Jul 14, 2009 2:14 am
- Location: People's Republic of Kalifornia
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darthroush
- 2GN Member
- Posts: 1637
- Joined: Tue Jul 14, 2009 2:14 am
- Location: People's Republic of Kalifornia
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contagious18
- 2010 Silver Contributor
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- Joined: Wed Feb 21, 2007 3:18 pm
- Location: Stockton, CA
I was trying to fix this problem today but I have no wire going accross the door I should start looking for a fuse or something
Antagonist crew| Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #000031
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2569968
http://contagious209.mybrute.com
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occasional demons
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Do the '00s have the pin in the door jamb? I thought I read that somewhere.
Bill
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
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contagious18
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Yea they do but I changed it three times already and neither have worked
Antagonist crew| Official "I'm Going to Drive My Neon till it Dies" Club #000031
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2569968
http://contagious209.mybrute.com
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http://contagious209.mybrute.com
ok, im having the same problem, accept when i take off my door panel... there isnt a wire..
and ive replaced my door jamb switch, could it be possible that my new switch is bad?
i have dont a bit of looking into this... so as of now, i removed the dome light and deal with the chime when i drive with my "door open"
and ive replaced my door jamb switch, could it be possible that my new switch is bad?
i have dont a bit of looking into this... so as of now, i removed the dome light and deal with the chime when i drive with my "door open"
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occasional demons
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If you have the push in switch in the jamb, there is no wire in the door to the latch. It may be the other side is also bad? If it is an '01 or newer, it should have the door latch switch. 2000 had the old school door jamb pin switch. Or so I have read.MrCii wrote:ok, im having the same problem, accept when i take off my door panel... there isnt a wire..
and ive replaced my door jamb switch, could it be possible that my new switch is bad?
i have dont a bit of looking into this... so as of now, i removed the dome light and deal with the chime when i drive with my "door open"
viewtopic.php?t=17664
Putting this info in your sig will do. The garage feature will/may be gone in the future.
Bill
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
