Tach install without an adapter?
- BlackRoseRacing
- 2009 Platinum Contributor
- Posts: 12729
- Joined: Sat Dec 25, 2004 8:58 am
Tach install without an adapter?
is there any way to install an aftermarket tach without an adapter?
Ive searched numerous times without any results....
Im getting a new tach that has the 4/6/8 setting(thanks neonchic) And I need to know install directions, and if I need a tach adapt....thanks....
Ive searched numerous times without any results....
Im getting a new tach that has the 4/6/8 setting(thanks neonchic) And I need to know install directions, and if I need a tach adapt....thanks....
Yes, you will still need an adapter. The 4/6/8 cylinder settings are for a distributor style ignition. Since the Neon is distributorless and fires twice per cycle an adaptor is needed to convert the two signals into one.
Autometer 9117 Tach adapter.
I have a spare I would take $25.00 for shipped in the U.S.
Works fine. I installed an MSD unit to go along with my DIS II.
Richard Z.
Autometer 9117 Tach adapter.
I have a spare I would take $25.00 for shipped in the U.S.
Works fine. I installed an MSD unit to go along with my DIS II.
Richard Z.
Anybody can "Buy" a fast car, Try building one...
- BlackRoseRacing
- 2009 Platinum Contributor
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- Joined: Sat Dec 25, 2004 8:58 am
- eVilcreations
- Former Jr. Admin
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- Location: the flatlands, KS
- Contact:
BlackRoseRacing wrote:from what I read an adapter is not needed if you tap the correct wire....some one fill me in before I dump another $25 into this tach.....
READ the post above what you typed.......that man is VERY knowledgeable......listen to what he says.......
You DO need a tach adapter.......if you don't use one...your tach will read half of the correct RPM's.......or not read at all...
Josh

- BlackRoseRacing
- 2009 Platinum Contributor
- Posts: 12729
- Joined: Sat Dec 25, 2004 8:58 am
payed him this morning for the adapter...I figured total $100 shipped for a tach an adapter aint bad since the tach alone is valued at $250-$300. But I still think I read somewhere maybe even in srtforums that you dont need an adapter. I'll see if I can find anything and post it here.....
Thanks for the help guys!
Thanks for the help guys!
-
scneonchic
- 2GN Veteran
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- BlackRoseRacing
- 2009 Platinum Contributor
- Posts: 12729
- Joined: Sat Dec 25, 2004 8:58 am
There are tachs that have a 2 cilinder option, so those doesnt need an adapter.
Also fabricating your own adapter shouldnt be hard if you know an electrician.
Also fabricating your own adapter shouldnt be hard if you know an electrician.
Rally Neon Mod List:
2.5 direct exhaust, PVC CAI, PT clutch, Crane 14, 5point seats & harnesses, 8 point FIA roll cage, AF/X race ecu, Dropzone coilovers, Hotchkis swaybars, Crane valve springs, Autogage 5" tach shiftlite, .020" head shaving, custom long tube header, wilwood 12" Big Brake Kit.
2.5 direct exhaust, PVC CAI, PT clutch, Crane 14, 5point seats & harnesses, 8 point FIA roll cage, AF/X race ecu, Dropzone coilovers, Hotchkis swaybars, Crane valve springs, Autogage 5" tach shiftlite, .020" head shaving, custom long tube header, wilwood 12" Big Brake Kit.
- BlackRoseRacing
- 2009 Platinum Contributor
- Posts: 12729
- Joined: Sat Dec 25, 2004 8:58 am
well the tach im getting only has a 4/6/8 option, I picked up an adapter for $25 shipped so all is good. Hopefully ill have it for this saturday though, since neonchic hooked me up again and ill have the tach by noon saturday..........here is my sat plans:
1: Install New slotted front rotors to go with my drilled/slotted rears
2: Replace my lower cluster bezel w/ a new one
3: Coolant flush(WNY, going to snow soon
)
4: replace my Pas side fog w/ a new one(no one had one to sell me)
5: Redo the braided stainless on my hoses
6: Repair shifter(knob fell off
)
7: Install Tach.....yeah baby
8: Do a final detail for the year w/ 2 coats of wax for the winter.....
And then get ready for the Rally here in WNY for Oct 23rd:
http://rallywny.com/rallywny/DARflyer2005.html
C-Ya
1: Install New slotted front rotors to go with my drilled/slotted rears
2: Replace my lower cluster bezel w/ a new one
3: Coolant flush(WNY, going to snow soon
4: replace my Pas side fog w/ a new one(no one had one to sell me)
5: Redo the braided stainless on my hoses
6: Repair shifter(knob fell off
7: Install Tach.....yeah baby
8: Do a final detail for the year w/ 2 coats of wax for the winter.....
And then get ready for the Rally here in WNY for Oct 23rd:
http://rallywny.com/rallywny/DARflyer2005.html
C-Ya
-
lambostealth
- 2GN Member
- Posts: 2100
- Joined: Mon Aug 08, 2005 7:09 am
- Location: cen*cal
slotted rear disks? hope its for looks only but theres no way in heel you need those 
Rally Neon Mod List:
2.5 direct exhaust, PVC CAI, PT clutch, Crane 14, 5point seats & harnesses, 8 point FIA roll cage, AF/X race ecu, Dropzone coilovers, Hotchkis swaybars, Crane valve springs, Autogage 5" tach shiftlite, .020" head shaving, custom long tube header, wilwood 12" Big Brake Kit.
2.5 direct exhaust, PVC CAI, PT clutch, Crane 14, 5point seats & harnesses, 8 point FIA roll cage, AF/X race ecu, Dropzone coilovers, Hotchkis swaybars, Crane valve springs, Autogage 5" tach shiftlite, .020" head shaving, custom long tube header, wilwood 12" Big Brake Kit.
- BlackRoseRacing
- 2009 Platinum Contributor
- Posts: 12729
- Joined: Sat Dec 25, 2004 8:58 am
they way I drive, it helped alot....
As for the TACH, I also did not need the adapter. The Autometer tach had 2 4cyl options:
Cut blue wire for 4cyl 2cycles
Cut Blue and brown for 4cyl 1cycle
Well I cut both the wires and tested the tach under the hood and it worked fine without the adapter. As noted here earlier, out of the 3 wires on the coil, the one closest to the firewall needs to be tapped for the TACH signal. Wich on my car was the dark grey w/ light gray stripe.
The only bug I notice is once in a while at idle the tach jumps every now and then as if there was a spike in the voltage, other than that everything works great!
Thanks for the help guys, and thanks again neonchic...
****
this was moved to general questions
****
As for the TACH, I also did not need the adapter. The Autometer tach had 2 4cyl options:
Cut blue wire for 4cyl 2cycles
Cut Blue and brown for 4cyl 1cycle
Well I cut both the wires and tested the tach under the hood and it worked fine without the adapter. As noted here earlier, out of the 3 wires on the coil, the one closest to the firewall needs to be tapped for the TACH signal. Wich on my car was the dark grey w/ light gray stripe.
The only bug I notice is once in a while at idle the tach jumps every now and then as if there was a spike in the voltage, other than that everything works great!
Thanks for the help guys, and thanks again neonchic...
****
theres no way yo need ventilation in the rears, they do less than 20% of the braking force, you wont get them hot enough o need slots.
Rally Neon Mod List:
2.5 direct exhaust, PVC CAI, PT clutch, Crane 14, 5point seats & harnesses, 8 point FIA roll cage, AF/X race ecu, Dropzone coilovers, Hotchkis swaybars, Crane valve springs, Autogage 5" tach shiftlite, .020" head shaving, custom long tube header, wilwood 12" Big Brake Kit.
2.5 direct exhaust, PVC CAI, PT clutch, Crane 14, 5point seats & harnesses, 8 point FIA roll cage, AF/X race ecu, Dropzone coilovers, Hotchkis swaybars, Crane valve springs, Autogage 5" tach shiftlite, .020" head shaving, custom long tube header, wilwood 12" Big Brake Kit.
- BlackRoseRacing
- 2009 Platinum Contributor
- Posts: 12729
- Joined: Sat Dec 25, 2004 8:58 am
SCCA racing, thats pretty much how I drive my car daily. The wife hates it, I say F' it...
Im the type of person that does not like anyone in front of me, if there doing the speed limit, well thats to slow...
S turns, im full bore into them, straight lines, im full bore until 10 over the limit...
Racing is in my blood, light to light....point A to point B... I dont care. I want the best brakes money can buy without going ridiculous. I could have bought SBS setup, but I dont have a fortune to spend.
No, the brakes dont give me any HP increase, but with performance brakes, I can out corner you any time....
Drilled and or Slotted is the way to go. Ask any INDY driver or any SCCA driver. They are designed that way for a purpose. I had a guy at work tell me they are a waste of money. He stated that his old 69 Camaro had 4 wheel drums and he never had a problem stopping. I told him take the same setup to Watkins Glen, then tell me what you think.
Needless to say, I recomend atleast slotted rotors, let alone a good drilled and slotted setup. If you know how there suppose to work, then you know why I recomend them....
****edit****
It does not hurt to spend extra money on over building a brake system
Im the type of person that does not like anyone in front of me, if there doing the speed limit, well thats to slow...
S turns, im full bore into them, straight lines, im full bore until 10 over the limit...
Racing is in my blood, light to light....point A to point B... I dont care. I want the best brakes money can buy without going ridiculous. I could have bought SBS setup, but I dont have a fortune to spend.
No, the brakes dont give me any HP increase, but with performance brakes, I can out corner you any time....
Drilled and or Slotted is the way to go. Ask any INDY driver or any SCCA driver. They are designed that way for a purpose. I had a guy at work tell me they are a waste of money. He stated that his old 69 Camaro had 4 wheel drums and he never had a problem stopping. I told him take the same setup to Watkins Glen, then tell me what you think.
Needless to say, I recomend atleast slotted rotors, let alone a good drilled and slotted setup. If you know how there suppose to work, then you know why I recomend them....
****edit****
It does not hurt to spend extra money on over building a brake system