clutch crumbled? flywheel shatted? trans crushed?

Ironman Alloyz · Post by **Ironman Alloyz** » Sun Oct 18, 2009 3:14 pm

Ironman signing in....normally i ghost read the site but i havent been on in a good while due to work and school and my cpu crashing *deep sigh*

putting into 1st gear makes this grinding and chomping sound, next thing i get a jerk then nothing but highhhhh revssss

golly, now the car doesnt move but this 2002 neon r/t with 106k has been soooo good to me plz dont fail me now

lets see wat happens if i leave it in gear.......wow the engine is still running and that grinding starts up again but now as harsh as if i hit the gas.

wth is a guy to do plz dont tell me is the whole tranny and its just a clutch/flywheel engaging prob? plz somebody (naw jus joking keep it real)

2nd and 3rd opinion needed? whats the resolution? and cost? smh

ZeroChad · Post by **ZeroChad** » Sun Oct 18, 2009 8:39 pm

Well for a quick pic at the flywheel, there is a dustcover/inspection plate on the bottom of the bell housing you can remove. It doesn't sound good though.

You also could change your fluid and hunt through to find any metal. Any found could indicated trans problems.

r/tguy02 · Post by **r/tguy02** » Sun Oct 18, 2009 10:19 pm

few questions for you to help diagnose the sitch. First of all what was/is the fluid level like? Second what happens when you try to go into second, reverse, etc...? but in all honesty is sounds like the gears are toast (not to sound negative)

fixitmattman · Post by **fixitmattman** » Sun Oct 18, 2009 10:22 pm

1. Check cross over cable adjustment
2. Pull inspection cover, take a look
3. Drop a bit of trans oil, take a look
4. Pending the results of 1, 2 and 3, pull trans to find out what's going on

Post by **occasional demons** » Sun Oct 18, 2009 11:24 pm

Above all: Be ready for anything while it is running/in gear. If it is just something with the clutch, it could catch, and unexpectedly propel the car without warning. Especially if the engine is above idle.

In addition to all the above, check the shifter bushings at the trans, and that the cables are even attached.

Ironman Alloyz · Post by **Ironman Alloyz** » Mon Oct 19, 2009 8:27 am

thanks folks

well its cold here and it was stuck in an alley soo i wasnt able to give it a GOOD look before having it towed and its really cold today so im not sure when im gonna take a look at it myself.

putting the car in any gear whethere 1st, 2nd, and/or rev does the same thing car doesnt move and the car doesent stall out either.

no smells, no leaks, nothing blatantly out of the ordinary.

as far as changing fluids that was done maybe like a wk ago noooo two wks ago at guess where: JIFFY MOTHAPHUKIN LUBE

but i would like to think they had nothing to do with it

i hope i got everyone's questions partially answered and thanks again

oh also yes the a couple of times the gears/clutch/flywheel w/e would engage allowing me to move the car a bit but then it would make a clumking chomping sound and disengage again

that happens sparingly

r/tguy02 · Post by **r/tguy02** » Mon Oct 19, 2009 9:16 am

i dont know if you can now that you had it towed, but you could try puting the trans in gear manually by moving the levers on top of the trans. that would eliminate linkage and bushing issues if you have them. (ensure the car is off obviously, then start it and let the clutch out)

fixitmattman · Post by **fixitmattman** » Mon Oct 19, 2009 12:06 pm

Sounds like the flex plate is trashed IMO, but that's just a guess.

Ironman Alloyz · Post by **Ironman Alloyz** » Wed Oct 21, 2009 8:13 am

well i'll be taking it to the shop probably nxt week

i keep this updated on what happens, when i used the searh button .....yes thats right folks ironman has proper forum etiquette i used the search button

a few ppl had something a lil similar but not the same, so im sure this might happen to somebody else although i hope your at the comfort of your own home IF it does happen

soul_sword34 · Post by **soul_sword34** » Sat Oct 24, 2009 2:54 pm

I bet it's the input bearing giving out. Just my .02c

Post by **occasional demons** » Sat Oct 24, 2009 4:03 pm

The bearing going would not keep it from moving. If it seized, and snapped off the input shaft, that's another matter.

Drakito · Post by **Drakito** » Fri Oct 30, 2009 1:34 am

I have seen several clutches sprung hubs have a spring decide to exit its normal location. On my car it kept the fingers from fully disengaging and caused the exact same problems you are describing. You can start it but every gear is nasty.
I've also seen broken flexplates cause the same issue.
The clutch fork is pretty bomber and almost never bends or breaks, TOB's are a different matter.

Another thing to look at, besides the excellent suggestions from everyone above, is make sure your clutch fluid is bled and clean.

Donkeypuncher · Post by **Donkeypuncher** » Fri Oct 30, 2009 4:46 am

Even if the hydraulic system is jacked up or has no fluid, the clutch should engage if you start it in 1st gear. If it doesn't jump and start moving then it's a much bigger problem. My slave took a dump on the last car and I drove it with no clutch for 20 miles, just have to rev match and prepare for red lights.

Ironman Alloyz · Post by **Ironman Alloyz** » Sat Oct 31, 2009 11:19 am

Drakito wrote:I have seen several clutches sprung hubs have a spring decide to exit its normal location. On my car it kept the fingers from fully disengaging and caused the exact same problems you are describing. You can start it but every gear is nasty.
I've also seen broken flexplates cause the same issue.
The clutch fork is pretty bomber and almost never bends or breaks, TOB's are a different matter.

Another thing to look at, besides the excellent suggestions from everyone above, is make sure your clutch fluid is bled and clean.

how was that fixed?....im not a 'diy' when it comes to drivetrains but i would luv to minimize my cost outta pocket sigh

Post by **occasional demons** » Sat Oct 31, 2009 1:01 pm

As far as the clutch spring hub issue, a new clutch disk would be needed. But unless you convert to the '95 style clutch, it takes a modular clutch, ie: flywheel/disk/pressure plate pre-assembled. Buying a new modular clutch is still cheaper than sourcing the '95 parts, and is slightly easier to install. (The disk is already aligned, you just slide it on.) Some of the aftermarket unitd bolt together, so for future maintenance, the disk/pressure plate could be replaced, but the flywheel should be resurfaced, so the down time would be greater. Also you will need to find a way to center the disk properly.

Ironman Alloyz · Post by **Ironman Alloyz** » Sat Oct 31, 2009 2:52 pm

occasional demons wrote:As far as the clutch spring hub issue, a new clutch disk would be needed. But unless you convert to the '95 style clutch, it takes a modular clutch, ie: flywheel/disk/pressure plate pre-assembled. Buying a new modular clutch is still cheaper than sourcing the '95 parts, and is slightly easier to install. (The disk is already aligned, you just slide it on.) Some of the aftermarket unitd bolt together, so for future maintenance, the disk/pressure plate could be replaced, but the flywheel should be resurfaced, so the down time would be greater. Also you will need to find a way to center the disk properly.

that still sounds better than tranny work imho....thanks for the piece of info

Donkeypuncher · Post by **Donkeypuncher** » Sat Oct 31, 2009 5:04 pm

I think that's the only advantage of the modular clutch, easy install. The non-modular really only helps for drag and race applications.

Post by **occasional demons** » Sun Nov 01, 2009 7:38 pm

Actually, I wouldn't be suprised if the modular concept came from racing. The speed of installing a preassembled clutch, especially in drag racing, would be a huge help.

Donkeypuncher · Post by **Donkeypuncher** » Tue Nov 03, 2009 4:10 am

Good point, although the ability to change just the disc or pressure plate could be cheaper for broke racers. I believe you also lose the option of a lightweight flywheel with the modular, I may be wrong though.

Ironman Alloyz · Post by **Ironman Alloyz** » Sat Nov 07, 2009 2:59 pm

Donkeypuncher wrote:Good point, although the ability to change just the disc or pressure plate could be cheaper for broke racers. I believe you also lose the option of a lightweight flywheel with the modular, I may be wrong though.

it would make sense seeing that a lighter flywheel doesnt have the same strength (do i dare say durability) as the oem.

is this the reason why the pt cruiser setup is a better upgrade?

Post by **occasional demons** » Sat Nov 07, 2009 4:58 pm

There are aluminum modular clutches in the aftermarket. I'm sure they are plenty durable. Like I said, the aftermarket modular clutches are bolted together, vs riveted, so I imagine they are rebuildable.

Ironman Alloyz · Post by **Ironman Alloyz** » Mon Dec 14, 2009 3:42 pm

finally taking it to the shop:

and the resolution isssss:

two motor mounts and a broken right ax.....

yes folks thats all, and it some how gives off the symptoms of a flywheel, clutch, or tranny issue. smh

$850 including parts, towing, and labor just for those who might have a similar issue

r/tguy02 · Post by **r/tguy02** » Mon Dec 14, 2009 4:24 pm

how did you break an axle? crazy one wheel burnouts...

Donkeypuncher · Post by **Donkeypuncher** » Mon Dec 14, 2009 9:31 pm

I'm guessing the inner joint of the axle wore down and finally broke apart. Had that happen on my avenger 2 times. You don't get the tell tale sign of popping in the cv joint, it's more of a vibration until it finally grenades itself.

I would guess the bad motor mounts (torque struts I assume) allowed the axle to move out of proper alignment and that will definitely cause axle failure.

non-magnum · Post by **non-magnum** » Mon Dec 14, 2009 11:54 pm

r/tguy02 wrote:how did you break an axle? crazy one wheel burnouts...

Drifting and flouring it

Post by **occasional demons** » Tue Dec 15, 2009 9:51 am

Ironman Alloyz wrote:
$850 including parts, towing, and labor just for those who might have a similar issue

Wow, working on own car FTW!

All those items are not too complicated to do, the axle shaft being the most difficult. Too bad you don't have someone near to give you a hand. Shit, I would if you were close. But MD is a bit of a drive...

Donkeypuncher · Post by **Donkeypuncher** » Tue Dec 15, 2009 11:34 am

That is definitely a high price, should be under $300 total for that kind of work. I'd do it relatively free if you were closer, I accept beer and bud as payment.

Post by **occasional demons** » Tue Dec 15, 2009 12:20 pm

Towing is part of that. If flat bed, prolly about $100 of it.

2GN.ORG

clutch crumbled? flywheel shatted? trans crushed?

clutch crumbled? flywheel shatted? trans crushed?

SOLUTION!!!!!!!

Re: SOLUTION!!!!!!!