Story + Time for new tierods before catastrophy >.<

Kelevra · Post by **Kelevra** » Wed Dec 02, 2009 11:48 am

So last year I needed new tires due to a brake failure and lock up of the tires? (how did I manage to lock up my front wheels with no brake fluid is beyond me) 2 hr drive home with no brakes and 2 flat spotted tires. I made it! The culprit? Bad rear wheel cylenders (well just one, had both replaced) When i got the tires I went for an alignment. No go. there was just a little bit of play in the driver side outer tie rod and the bushings are bad. he wouldn't do it. (probably because I was there as he examined the front end and figured he couldn't play me out) Since then I have not had the cash to get it all replaced. I'd rather do it myself, but with the alignment issue after replacing a tie rod (or both) can be tricky to get close enough to drive to get it aligned, the lack of a place to work indoors and the lack of proper tools to do the job I'd rather have a shop do it (less one of you tells me otherwise and gives me a pat on the back saying it's ok)

To get down to it.. when I turn the wheel slightly to the left the driver side wheel vibrates. I'm sure this is due to the play in the tie rod, the friction of the road and the power input from the motor duking it out and wreaking havoc on my already distraught tie rod. I need new ones and fast. I've been shopping around looking for some inexpensive ones that are still reliable

My question is. What brand should i go with? What should I look for? and how much is reasonable to pay?

Boyscoutgonebad · Post by **Boyscoutgonebad** » Wed Dec 02, 2009 12:09 pm

I used Moog tie rod ends. not the cheapest but they've worked great you can buy them at Rockauto.com its s pretty easy install. if you look around there is a how to on here some where.

Post by **occasional demons** » Wed Dec 02, 2009 12:41 pm

To get it close to drive to the shop, measure to distance from a set point that will not change with a different tie rod design. Moog is different than stock. Try to find a place on the knuckle to the cross member. Measure with the play pulling out, and then pushing in. Subtract the difference, and add ahlf of that to the "pushing in" measurement. It should get you close enough to drive it to the shop. Counting turns doesn't work well, as the aftermarket style changes that. Also measure the distance the tie rod is in relation to the crossmember, so if the rack moves, you can return it to the same spot.

Soak them with penetrating oil, and have some heat available. Mine were a total PITA to remove. Rust FTL! I managed with a propane torch, but if you have oxy/acetylene, by all means...

edit: How to: Forgot all about that.

viewtopic.php?t=40792

MyNeonSaysHi · Post by **MyNeonSaysHi** » Wed Dec 02, 2009 4:30 pm

Spend the extra money and get the moog ones, they are constructed way better. I put a cheap duralast autozone one, on one side and have a moog on on the other, we shall see which one lasts the longest! Teh napa brand ones are moog.

I am sure someone out there could help you out. There are a TON of 2nd gen enthusiasts around your area.

but yeah like what bill said, soak the hell out of them! And maybe pick up one of those mini propane torches. They can be a PITA if sezied up, most auto shops will charge an arm and a leg to put them on too.
I also believe you can get a special tool to make the job go by easier.

bone-yard-racing · Post by **bone-yard-racing** » Wed Dec 02, 2009 4:51 pm

The $9 ones from Rock Auto are almost identical to the $47 moog ones. I infact prefer the cheaper ones because the boots are replaceable and that is the area they most commonly fail.

Its an easy job a BFH will be required

Broken Glass · Post by **Broken Glass** » Wed Dec 02, 2009 5:45 pm

i have to swap one of mine out too and i have a question. what does the "Frt Strg; Outer" mean. i know it is outter, but what is the frt strg mean? and is the right and left outters the same im guessing?