Driving without PCV
Driving without PCV
I had to replace a leaky seal in my valve cover. When putting the PCV valve back in, the plastic threads tore off inside the valve cover and then the other end of the hose tore as I was trying to remove it, so I am going to replace the cover, valve, and hose. However, the parts won't come in until Tuesday and I have to drive on Monday and Tuesday.
I'm pretty sure running for a couple days sans PCV won't do too much harm to my oil system, and I'm changing the oil next weekend while swapping out the timing belt anyhow, but do you have any suggestions regarding what to do with the hole in the valve cover where the PCV valve would normally be, or the now-open tubing connector at the other end of the PCV hose?
I'm guessing that I should block the PCV valve orifice in the valve cover but leave the other line open to vent into the engine compartment, but I wanted to get your opinions first. Any ideas?
I'm pretty sure running for a couple days sans PCV won't do too much harm to my oil system, and I'm changing the oil next weekend while swapping out the timing belt anyhow, but do you have any suggestions regarding what to do with the hole in the valve cover where the PCV valve would normally be, or the now-open tubing connector at the other end of the PCV hose?
I'm guessing that I should block the PCV valve orifice in the valve cover but leave the other line open to vent into the engine compartment, but I wanted to get your opinions first. Any ideas?
Just run the open port in the valve cover to vent somewhere to atmosphere. Don't block it off. You're gonna have a major vacuum leak if you don't block off the port on the intake manifold though, and I can't think of an effective way to do so.
Why not just extract the broken threads, buy a new PCV valve, and buy a new hose or make one out of fuel line? Any local parts store will have the valve in stock, and fuel line is extremely available as well.
Why not just extract the broken threads, buy a new PCV valve, and buy a new hose or make one out of fuel line? Any local parts store will have the valve in stock, and fuel line is extremely available as well.
-Derek
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I tried for over an hour to extract the old threads, but it's like they are fused in there. A big enough drill bit and tap would do it, I think, but they'd have to be pretty big. I just wanted to replace the hose with one that was properly bent anyhow. Thanks for the feedback; looks like I had the orifaces backward. 
So material from the PCV valve threads is stuck in the valve cover? If the valve cover itself is fine, a tap will pretty easily remove any material stuck in the threads. IIRC the PCV hole is a 1/2"-NPT thread.
But it's fine to run without a PCV system for a while as long as the crank case is vented.
But it's fine to run without a PCV system for a while as long as the crank case is vented.
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racer12306
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You should run with a PCV valve. It evacuates the crankcase better, gets the junk out.
-Frank
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Several people have eliminated their PCV valve and just tap it with an oil fitting to vent. So you'll be fine..just make sure no shit falls in the crank case. I'd maybe put a mesh or something over it. But you'll be fine.






dank(r/t) wrote:you tell 'em altezza light, black headlight cover guy!
you know what's up, it's obvious.
TheRandom1 wrote:Adionik, you're an asshole, we all know this.
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heydockyle
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If you need to block off the intake side to keep from having insane idle, stick a phillips head screwdriver in the hose till you get it fixed. Make sure it's big enough to stay in, not to big to rip hose, and won't fall out or go anywhere it could damage the engine.
Had to do exactly that with the 1st gen today cuz the pcv broke the nipple off.
Had to do exactly that with the 1st gen today cuz the pcv broke the nipple off.

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occasional demons
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First off, is it DOHC like Adionik has pictured, or the plastic SOHC valve cover. It helps to put your year trim level and trans type in your sig.
The threads would be 3/8 NPT.
, the elbow I bought was 3/8 pipe x 3/8 tube. A tap should push the leftover threads out. You may want to remove the VC to do this, just to keep the debris from lying in the cyl head. I would not use a drill, or you will need a new way of attaching things, or an other VC
I have my PCV mounted by the IM and the tube, basically goes from the valve to the VC. There are some things in between, like a catch can and cooler, but that is another topic.
This is an old pic of the rough draft stages...

03blackrt wrote:IIRC the PCV hole is a 1/2"-NPT thread.
The threads would be 3/8 NPT.
I have my PCV mounted by the IM and the tube, basically goes from the valve to the VC. There are some things in between, like a catch can and cooler, but that is another topic.
This is an old pic of the rough draft stages...

Bill
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
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I have no clue, I posted up some info about the rage COP but it looks nothing like the one in that picture.jonnymopar wrote:Not to threadjack, but Adionik... what is that coil-on-plug setup from in the first pic?!
dank(r/t) wrote:you tell 'em altezza light, black headlight cover guy!
you know what's up, it's obvious.
TheRandom1 wrote:Adionik, you're an asshole, we all know this.
jonnymopar wrote:Not to threadjack, but Adionik... what is that coil-on-plug setup from in the first pic?!
IIRC, they're AEM pencil coils.
http://www.aempower.com/ViewCategory.as ... goryID=352
Just wanted to say thanks for the feedback from everyone. I liked the screwdriver idea, but the hose had also broken right at the connector that goes on the intake manifold port. That hose was definitely at end-of-life. I took the broken connector, put a penny on top over the hole just to make sure that something solid was over it, and then bound it tightly with electrical tape to make a plug. Works like a charm.
I screwed with the valve cover for another 45 minutes or so trying to get the PCV valve threads out but they are in there with much ridiculousness. I can barely tell where the threads actually are as it just looks like a solid piece of plastic with a clean hole drilled in the middle at this point. Just to clarify, it wasn't just like the threads stripped out; the entire threaded end of the PCV valve broke off in the port on the valve cover.
Whatever, parts will be here in a couple of days and the car runs for now so happy days and all that. Get to tear it back down next weekend anyway to get the timing belt and water pump in as I should have the puller and insert for the pulley this week.
On a side note, the dogbone motor mounts from MP are awesome.
I screwed with the valve cover for another 45 minutes or so trying to get the PCV valve threads out but they are in there with much ridiculousness. I can barely tell where the threads actually are as it just looks like a solid piece of plastic with a clean hole drilled in the middle at this point. Just to clarify, it wasn't just like the threads stripped out; the entire threaded end of the PCV valve broke off in the port on the valve cover.
On a side note, the dogbone motor mounts from MP are awesome.
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occasional demons
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Ah, so all you need is an easy out bolt extractor to remove the broken
part of the PCV. Tho if it is in there good, the plastic may just shred.
part of the PCV. Tho if it is in there good, the plastic may just shred.
Bill
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
