Crankshaft pulley install

Memitim · Post by **Memitim** » Sun Jan 17, 2010 10:04 pm

Greets. I just finished throwing my car back together, including reinstalling the crankshaft pulley. However, I have an issue where when I apply some gas, I hear that scary combination of chattering teeth and light squealing that tells me I screwed up something related to a belt. Both belt are already plenty tight, so my guess is that I neglected to tighten the bottom nut on the alternator, so the alternator pulley has just enough sway to cause some skipping. However, I also want to make sure that my crankshaft pulley is seated all the way as well since I'm concerned about that as well.

Hence my question: how do I know when the dampener is seated all the way? I can't see behind it and the resistance is bloody colossal by default, so there's no way that I can do it by feeling the resistance on the breaker bar. I can stick my fingers in the holes in the pulley, but I'm not sure what I should be feeling for to indicate that the pulley is in as far as it is going to go. I don't want to keep applying massive amounts of torque if it is stopped as I am becoming really concerned about snapping the head off of the crankshaft bolt. Thanks!

Post by **occasional demons** » Sun Jan 17, 2010 10:31 pm

Unless someone post a measurement from the timing cover to the inner or outer edge of the balancer, the best way would be to check the alignment of the belts, if you can get a clean enough view of them.

Torque is something along the lines of 105 ft lbs, so if you can rent a Torque wrench from AZ or borrow one, that would be the best bet. Just set it and crank 'till it clicks. I would imagine if it is not fully seated, the dampener will give at a lower torque than 105 ft lbs. I personally like to use a dampener installer instead of the bolt to pull it into place. It gives a much better feel of when it seats. The rotational friction is put on the bearing instead of the threads. Then you install the bolt, and torque it to spec. Did you lube the bolt with motor oil before using it to pull the dampener in place?

Memitim · Post by **Memitim** » Sun Jan 17, 2010 10:55 pm

I have a torque wrench and tried to use it to figure out when to stop turning, but it started clicking as soon as the bolt started threading.

That's where my problem lies; I can apply 105 ft/lbs of torque to the bolt once the pulley is bottomed out just to make sure that the bolt is fit solid, but I have to apply more than that just to get the pulley seated.

I may borrow a dampener installer from AutoZone and try that. I really don't like using the bolt to pull the pulley down anyhow.

Post by **occasional demons** » Sun Jan 17, 2010 11:13 pm

This is what I used, but it is not a same day item...

occasional demons wrote:This is the stuff I bought for reinstallation, if there is any interest:
1 99055A135 1 Each Metric Class 8.8 Plain Steel Threaded Rod, M12 Size, 1 Meter Length, 1.75 Mm Pitch
2 60715K11 1 Each Steel Ball Thrust Bearing, For 1/2" Shaft Diameter, 1-7/32" Od, Shielded
3 91005A038 1 Each Metric Black-oxide Steel Flange Nut, M12 Screw Sz, 1.75mm Pitch, 19mm W, 17mm H O’all

All the Items are from Mc Master Carr http://www.mcmaster.com/ but you could prolly get a damper installer for a little more $ This woked well tho. You don't have to worry about stripping the crank threads this way. just thread the rod all the way in for full engagement.

But if you can locate an installer the threads have to be 12mm x 1.75 pitch. Most I seen were 1.5 pitch. Hence why I went that route.

Memitim · Post by **Memitim** » Mon Jan 18, 2010 12:00 pm

I guess running the engine briefly straightened out the pulley or something because when I threw it back on the stands and went at it with the torque wrench, the bolt turned much easier (albeit, still a workout

) and I was able to throw a few more turns before it clicked. Definitely didn't have it fully seated. Now she's running without complaint again and life is good. Thanks again for the feedback.

Caraudioholic24 · Post by **Caraudioholic24** » Mon Jan 18, 2010 12:23 pm

Thanks for that link bill. That installer will come in handy shortly when I install my MPX UDP.

Caraudioholic24 · Post by **Caraudioholic24** » Sun Feb 28, 2010 12:30 pm

occasional demons wrote:This is what I used, but it is not a same day item...

occasional demons wrote:This is the stuff I bought for reinstallation, if there is any interest:
1 99055A135 1 Each Metric Class 8.8 Plain Steel Threaded Rod, M12 Size, 1 Meter Length, 1.75 Mm Pitch
2 60715K11 1 Each Steel Ball Thrust Bearing, For 1/2" Shaft Diameter, 1-7/32" Od, Shielded
3 91005A038 1 Each Metric Black-oxide Steel Flange Nut, M12 Screw Sz, 1.75mm Pitch, 19mm W, 17mm H O’all

All the Items are from Mc Master Carr http://www.mcmaster.com/ but you could prolly get a damper installer for a little more $ This woked well tho. You don't have to worry about stripping the crank threads this way. just thread the rod all the way in for full engagement.

But if you can locate an installer the threads have to be 12mm x 1.75 pitch. Most I seen were 1.5 pitch. Hence why I went that route.

I just ordered this. Waitng for it to come in. Any tips on an easy install. LOL. I see you have tape on one end. Did you have to use vice grips to stop the rod from turning. Thanks

Donkeypuncher · Post by **Donkeypuncher** » Tue Mar 02, 2010 1:34 am

You can make your own if you have a local hardware store carries the correct pitch and grade bots and nuts. Mine is very similar to that one, but I use big stack of washers instead of that thrust bearing. Worked pretty good since I didn't have a impact wrench.

Caraudioholic24 · Post by **Caraudioholic24** » Tue Mar 02, 2010 1:57 am

Yea I wanted to go nice and easy since I had such a hecll of a time pulling the oem one off LOL. This setup will help from marring the pulley as well. Well worth the 25 bux. They sent me a huge piece of rod so if anyone wants some let me know LOL

my87csx481 · Post by **my87csx481** » Wed Mar 03, 2010 7:00 pm

I had to make one very similar to the one pictured. I too used washers instead of the thrust bearing (gonna' get the thrust bearing next time I order from Mcmaster).

I used a total of three nuts. One to push the pulley on and two "double nutted" on the end so I could use a second wrench to keep the pusher and crankshaft from rotating (because I didn't use the thrust bearing, there was a lot of resistance).

ZeroChad · Post by **ZeroChad** » Wed Mar 03, 2010 10:21 pm

I've never used a tool when installing my mpx pulley. Just heated her up with a torch and slid her on as far as possible.

Post by **occasional demons** » Wed Mar 03, 2010 10:28 pm

Caraudioholic24 wrote: I see you have tape on one end. Did you have to use vice grips to stop the rod from turning. Thanks

IIRC, I used the tape to mark where I cut the threaded rod, I just threaded it into the crank. Once it bottoms, it won't spin. I did buy another nut to put on the end to prevent the thrust bearing from being lost when stored.

ZeroChad, I had heated mine to 400ºF for about an hour. I still had to use that to install it. Getting it back off was another story.