Crazy, intense rubbing noise from front passenger side

05sxt · Post by **05sxt** » Thu Jan 28, 2010 2:22 pm

Okay, so for the past month or so I had noticed a kind of rubbing/grinding noise coming from the front passenger side of my car. Here are the characteristics I could pinpoint:

- It is overbearingly loud whenever it is raining or has rained and the road is wet (duh)
- Its basically non-existent when it is dry outside
- It increases in tempo when the car moves faster and vice versa
- It does not make the noise when revving the motor in Neutral
- It makes the noise even when brakes are not being applied
- There is zero evidence that the tires are rubbing against anything
- Nothing is loose in the bay or wheel well that might be rubbing against a moving part.
- There is no evidence that the brake pads are rubbing against the disks.

This leads me to believe that the noise is somewhere between the axle and the wheel. (again...duh) And since its only loudest when its wet, I'm thinking my front pass wheel bearing is shot.

I need some opinions on this so let me know before I go order a bearing that I might not need. And also, if it happens to be a bad bearing, I need a part number and a list of all the needed parts to replace it myself along with a How-To guide if there is one (I looked and couldn't find one for the front wheels). And is the bearing removable and installable by me or will I need to take it to a shop with a hub tamer to have the bearing pressed in? Oh and a back massage would be great while you're at it. Thanks!

hansken_yo · Post by **hansken_yo** » Thu Jan 28, 2010 2:37 pm

Wheel Bearings.

05sxt · Post by **05sxt** » Thu Jan 28, 2010 2:46 pm

Well that solves that problem! haha thanks hansken_yo!

Now, any ideas how I can go about fixing it?

FAC3L3SS · Post by **FAC3L3SS** » Thu Jan 28, 2010 2:59 pm

Buy a new one. Typically, you need a press to get them in.

05sxt · Post by **05sxt** » Thu Jan 28, 2010 3:02 pm

Right I guess I got that far already. my question is, does anyone know of any other parts besides the actual bearing that I'll need to buy? I'm not sure if there is a nylok nut on this one that will need a new replacement. Part # are helpful as well as a How-To if anyone knows where to find one.

FAC3L3SS · Post by **FAC3L3SS** » Thu Jan 28, 2010 3:07 pm

If it's a front passenger, I did mine this summer. In reality, you ought to replace the hub, since many of them come with the whole new hub, but once I got my bearing out, we re-used my original hub and bolted it back in. No new rings or nuts or anything.

05sxt · Post by **05sxt** » Thu Jan 28, 2010 3:51 pm

I assume this is what I need?
$40 at O'Reilly Autoparts

hansken_yo · Post by **hansken_yo** » Thu Jan 28, 2010 4:16 pm

typically you would just need to replace the bearing.

it is rare that you would have to change knuckles/spindles.

darthroush · Post by **darthroush** » Thu Jan 28, 2010 5:31 pm

Bearing race if they even have 'em.

Post by **occasional demons** » Thu Jan 28, 2010 5:37 pm

Eh?

They are unit bearings. They have a race, but it don't come separate.

OB · Post by OB » Thu Jan 28, 2010 5:47 pm

^So the race is pressed in while attached to the bearing itself? Interesting.

Danteneon · Post by **Danteneon** » Thu Jan 28, 2010 5:53 pm

See the split on the inside of the bearing? Those are the "races". When you press the old bearing out one of those will stay behind on the hub which is why a lot of people think the race is seperate.

darthroush · Post by **darthroush** » Thu Jan 28, 2010 6:39 pm

occasional demons wrote:Eh?

They are unit bearings. They have a race, but it don't come separate.

That works too I suppose.

cgneon · Post by **cgneon** » Thu Jan 28, 2010 7:29 pm

did you try switching tires front rear left etc, to see if the noise moves? i had the same kind of symptoms, went and paid big$ to get my wheelbearings replaced, and it turned out to be a bad TIRE... the belts were seperating or something..

05sxt · Post by **05sxt** » Fri Jan 29, 2010 5:22 pm

Yeah I rotated my tires a few weeks ago and the noise is still coming from the same area. I bought a 2pack of bearings and will be doing the replacement of both front bearings myself (except for the pressing which I'm using my friend who has a hub tamer to do that). I'll probably be done by next weekend and I'll update as to whether or not that fixes the noise.
In the meanwhile, I'm replacing my brake pads tonight. I've done that a million times on other cars but never on a Neon. Anything in particular I should be aware of?

OB · Post by OB » Fri Jan 29, 2010 5:32 pm

The front knuckles are different left to right, so keep that in mind when installing the pads. They sit slightly differently against the caliper from left to right due to the difference.

05sxt · Post by **05sxt** » Mon Feb 01, 2010 11:57 am

Hey all, I went ahead and replaced my pads and rotors at the same time this weekend. I also got my hub bearing in from the store.

When replacing my pads and rotors I took a good look at my knuckle and what all might be required when changing out the bearing. My friend seems to think it will be a lot more involved and difficult than it appears because he did it on his 93 Prelude.

I want to hear from someone on here that has removed a hub assembly on a 2GN and get an idea of what all is involved and how long/difficult it is. I have a Haynes manual that I was planning on following to get my bearing out, but that is never as valuable as the experience of a Joe Blow that has already done it his/herself.

So anyone out there who has experience with a 2GN front/passenger hub or wheel bearing please advise. Thanks!

Danteneon · Post by **Danteneon** » Mon Feb 01, 2010 12:18 pm

The entire knuckle has to be removed as an assembly. Unbolt it from the strut and seperate the knuckle from the lower ball joint.

You will need a press to do this job. I can go into the method I use to press the bearings in and out, but unless you are the one doing it, what I tell you will make no sense. I would have someone who has done this style of bearing before do the work to be honest.

05sxt · Post by **05sxt** » Mon Feb 01, 2010 1:24 pm

Thanks Danteneon - I wasn't planning on removing the bearing. I have a mechanic/friend who is willing to remove and install the bearing for FREE if I just bring him the knuckle/hub ready to work on. Otherwise if I bring the whole car in and have him take apart everything, he's gonna have to charge me some.

To remove the knuckle I know that I obviously need to remove the brake caliper and the rotor which I already know how to do. I noticed that there is a huge axle nut and I am not sure what size it is (my friend's 39mm would not fit over it).
I also assume I'll need to unbolt the two bolts holding the knuckle onto the strut. What else is necessary?

Danteneon · Post by **Danteneon** » Mon Feb 01, 2010 1:33 pm

You pretty much have it all listed out (I forgot the axle nut though

).

After the brake caliper and rotor are removed, remove the axle nut, both bolts to the strut, and the bolt that holds the lower ball joint to the knuckle. To remove the lower ball joint I don't recomend a pickle fork unless you want to change the ball joint boot. But if it's already torn, go for it and get a new boot.

That should be it. It may seem like a lot of work if you haven't done this before, but it really isn't that bad. Good luck

05sxt · Post by **05sxt** » Mon Feb 01, 2010 4:36 pm

Ok thats what I figured was involved. However, I'm curious as to how I'm going to remove the lower ball joint without using the fork separator. Is there any other way that doesn't tear up the balljoint?

Danteneon · Post by **Danteneon** » Mon Feb 01, 2010 5:24 pm

Yep.

Several companies make them. KD has one you can get at Sears, but many autoparts stores sell them as well.

Post by **occasional demons** » Mon Feb 01, 2010 7:31 pm

Psh,do this before removing the strut bolts: The bolt comes out of the knuckle clevis, remove both sway ends, if equipped, swing them down, then just pry down on the LCA. May need a bar, but the BJ stud will pull out of the knuckle fairly easily. Then swing the knuckle out, and remove the bolts to the strut. Prolly want to loosen them before removing the BJ tho.

The BJ stud is held in place via the bolt in the knuckle, and a groove in the stud. It is not a press fit, or tapered. Some penetrating oil might be your friend.
This way there is no worry of damaging the boot. They are pressed on, so installing a new boot would be a PITA.

Danteneon · Post by **Danteneon** » Tue Feb 02, 2010 9:31 am

Bill does have a point. If the sway bar ends are removed from the control arms the ball joint should slide out of the knuckle without too much effort.

The thing I did forget was the tie rod end. It needs to be removed from the knuckle. For that you will need a tool like the one I posted. It looks the same, only smaller.

Memory kinda failed me on that one

Donkeypuncher · Post by **Donkeypuncher** » Tue Feb 02, 2010 2:46 pm

I prefer this tool to pop the tie rod end out

There is less chance of damaging the boot which has happened to me with the fork style tool.

Post by **occasional demons** » Tue Feb 02, 2010 5:53 pm

As for tie rod ends, I have never had to break out the heavy equipment. I usually loosen the nut, and tap it with a hammer. They have always popped out. Just don't try bludgeoning it to death, or you will mushroom the end threads. Then you will have a problem.

Leaving the nut on is not mandatory, but it is just a precaution to keep the tie rod from flying up, not that they usually pop off with that much force. A Pittman arm on a truck is another matter entirely. It is just a good practice/habit to have.

I once forgot to leave the nut on a steering gear I had in a vice removing the Pittman arm. The puller and all hit a 20 foot high ceiling. That was my "Here's your sign" moment for that day.

05sxt · Post by **05sxt** » Thu Feb 11, 2010 2:11 pm

Update!

Well my mechanic finally got her new bearing press in on Tuesday, so I took apart my suspension that night to get the hub ready for her the next day.

I didn't have have very many surprises when taking everything off, however getting the actual 2 strut bolts out was a bit of challenge. That was solved with the impact wrench on one end and a rubber mallet on the other side of the bolt.

The axle nut came off surprisingly easily with an impact wrench and a 32mm socket. (perhaps too easily hmmmm) And the only recommendation I would make to someone else trying this would be to loosen/remove the sway bar to allow the lower control arm to go down a little more making it easier to line up the bolt holes on the strut and knuckle.

Thanks to everyone on here who helped me get through the ordeal. Now my Neon rides noise free and i have my sanity back!

hansken_yo · Post by **hansken_yo** » Thu Feb 11, 2010 4:17 pm

awesome yo.

Danteneon · Post by **Danteneon** » Thu Feb 11, 2010 4:23 pm

Good deal! Good to hear it went well for you