Alternator not working

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anders-j
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Alternator not working

Post by anders-j » Tue Feb 09, 2010 12:11 pm

Found out my alternator does´nt work or at least my battery does not get any charge.
Does anybody have any idea? some troubleshooting tips would be great!

occasional demons
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Post by occasional demons » Tue Feb 09, 2010 12:15 pm

Do you have the battery light? Any codes stored? There is a fusible link near the starter that may have failed. The ambient temp sensor will illuminate the battery light, but it will still charge at a flat 13 to 13.5 volts.
Bill
Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.

2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap

anders-j
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Post by anders-j » Thu Feb 11, 2010 3:11 pm

Thanks! Dont se any battery light, think it´s the fusable link so i will put a new one in this weekend.

occasional demons
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Post by occasional demons » Thu Feb 11, 2010 8:18 pm

Also, check the battery terminals for corrosion. That could be part of the problem. Check all the ground cables too. If the car runs once it has been jump started, and runs for a while after, but will not start once shut off, then the alternator is good. Chances are, with no battery light, the battery is dead. Without the fusible link intact, the voltage may not remain stable enough to keep the PCM happy. If it cannot regulate the voltage with in a range, it will set a code, and illuminate the battery light. I know it is a pain to get to, but if you can check for voltage at the alternator output terminal, that is one way to check the link. (with the engine off) Of course the battery will need to be charged to check it. The voltage should be within 0.2 volts, to allow for the connections. at each connector there may be a slight voltage drop. If there is a two or more volt difference, then the link is prolly toast, but may have enough conductivity to send voltage through, until there is a load. I see this with fuses at work. It doesn't happen often, but it is a possibility.
Bill
Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.

2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap

OB
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Post by OB » Sat Feb 13, 2010 8:06 pm

Just see what the alternator is putting out at idle with a multi-meter. If it's under 13V then replace the alternator. While this trick isn't fail-safe, it's like 95% accurate for diagnosing a faulty alt.
Last edited by OB on Tue Feb 23, 2010 12:17 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Craz1000
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Post by Craz1000 » Mon Feb 22, 2010 11:38 pm

:withstupid:
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anders-j
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Post by anders-j » Wed Jun 09, 2010 7:07 am

Finally got back ti working on my car.. So i replaced the alternator, the fusible link, and put in the 420A Alternator Voltage Regulator i got with the symtech ms.

Still wont charge :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: ... I need to get a multimeter i guess.., megasquirt shows 11,5-11,6 when i start the car with the battery fully charged.

Any more ideas???

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