bov problem PLEASE HELP
bov problem PLEASE HELP
well i bought a greddy type rs bov and when i accelerate it makes a cha-cha-cha sound? i tried adjusting the nut and screw but it still does it. whats wrong with it

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occasional demons
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You have a Vegas dancer trapped under your hood?
IDK, give it some time for someone to respond. 80 minutes is a bit too soon to bump... IMHO
IDK, give it some time for someone to respond. 80 minutes is a bit too soon to bump... IMHO
Bill
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
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Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
how much boost are you running...the spring in the BOV may not be strong enough....or you are getting PTB and you will have to learn to drive your car differently.
Joe
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team liviD
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that too...do ur self a favor and buy a TiAl BOV...best you can get...ever..
Joe
team liviD
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esteinmaier
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- LionheartedSXT
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Tial or synchronic is probably your best bet, then again hks is great too. Did you check the vac line going to it? Is it teed off with something else?
Edit: ^^^ beat me to it
Edit: ^^^ beat me to it
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Or maybe just invest in a vacuum block, to make everything neater and easier. What better person to go through than yours truly Erick(esteinmaier). Talk to him if your interested in a vacuum block.
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esteinmaier
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project 03 R/T
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I use a vaccum block and my Greddy RS works fine. I initially had the same problem you had. I would go out and get compressor surge under shift changes. What I did was to loosen mine almost completely, then tighten it a few turns. Then go out and try shifting again under boost. I'm running 10lbs right now and she opens with zero surge everytime. I found that the "start near the loosest setting and work your way back" method worked easily and permanently. Im set pretty loose. I see 17inches of vaccum at idle if that helps.
Hahn Stage 3 kit with FMIC, P&P Log manifold, 2.5" Thermal R&D exhaust, Comp400 cam , NX Direct Port Nitrous kit progressively controlled via P Gauge, AVS body kit, NX Gen X2 goodies, AEM F/IC, AEM Electronic Boost controller, MPx UDP, Maddog STS, JE Pistons ceramic coated tops and oil shear coated sides and bottoms, Eagle rods , Fidanza Aluminum Fly with 5.4 clutch Tokico Blues/Kazera Springs
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project 03 R/T
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your plunger is set too high. You aren't making enough boost to open it and the air is being forced back to your compressor housing causing the surge. There was nothing wrong with your Greddy RS. You just need to experiment with the setting (softer obviously) until it blows off and doesn't surge.
Hahn Stage 3 kit with FMIC, P&P Log manifold, 2.5" Thermal R&D exhaust, Comp400 cam , NX Direct Port Nitrous kit progressively controlled via P Gauge, AVS body kit, NX Gen X2 goodies, AEM F/IC, AEM Electronic Boost controller, MPx UDP, Maddog STS, JE Pistons ceramic coated tops and oil shear coated sides and bottoms, Eagle rods , Fidanza Aluminum Fly with 5.4 clutch Tokico Blues/Kazera Springs
plunger? its not the bov. its new and it works perfect at the setting its at nowproject 03 R/T wrote:your plunger is set too high. You aren't making enough boost to open it and the air is being forced back to your compressor housing causing the surge. There was nothing wrong with your Greddy RS. You just need to experiment with the setting (softer obviously) until it blows off and doesn't surge.

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project 03 R/T
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Spring pressure, sorry for the confusion. After reading this post it seemed as if you were still having the compressor surge. So your BOV is operating correctly now? Typically you will get the surge if the spring is set too stiff in the BOV and the charged air can't escape. It may be partially opening and not be completely opened. I would adjust it a tad more loose and make some quick runs. If the BOV was working correctly, I don't see how you could get the surge. It should be preventing that.phs17 wrote:well i installed the turbo xs rfl bov. and its still making the cha-cha sound. i dont have any boost leaks i checked
If that doesn't work then I would take Erik's advice and get a stronger vacuum source from the intake. I would say lose the "T" fitting and get a block.
Hahn Stage 3 kit with FMIC, P&P Log manifold, 2.5" Thermal R&D exhaust, Comp400 cam , NX Direct Port Nitrous kit progressively controlled via P Gauge, AVS body kit, NX Gen X2 goodies, AEM F/IC, AEM Electronic Boost controller, MPx UDP, Maddog STS, JE Pistons ceramic coated tops and oil shear coated sides and bottoms, Eagle rods , Fidanza Aluminum Fly with 5.4 clutch Tokico Blues/Kazera Springs
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esteinmaier
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No, it's surging because with the stock ECU, at part throttle, it opens the wastegate accordingly. With an aftermarket wastegate, it doesn't open until desired pressure is reached in the manifold. If you're choking it off with the throttle blade, you're getting very high pressure in the pipes but not the manifold. The turbo continues to spin as hard as it can with the exhaust volume it is given, and there is nowhere for the air to go but back out the way it came, causing surge.
When you go off of stock ECU boost control, you need to drive the car differently. Spend very little time in part throttle boost. If you don't need the power of full boost, shift.
When you go off of stock ECU boost control, you need to drive the car differently. Spend very little time in part throttle boost. If you don't need the power of full boost, shift.
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