power steering rack hardline

Addicted2Boost · Post by **Addicted2Boost** » Tue Mar 23, 2010 2:51 pm

would this work

http://info.rockauto.com/getimage/getim ... /92072.jpg

if I took that line and placed it where the two hardlines are on the power steering rack i want to replace one of the lines with a new one because it broke

this is the rack

http://info.rockauto.com/getimage/getim ... 377-01.jpg

hansken_yo · Post by **hansken_yo** » Tue Mar 23, 2010 3:00 pm

The line really has to be able to handle the pressure of the PW pump, which is quite a bit IIRC.

I can't really tell you anything about that line in particular from what is given.

Danteneon · Post by **Danteneon** » Tue Mar 23, 2010 3:05 pm

The first pic you posted is some kind of high pressure line for...something

If the line you are trying to replace is the small hard lines on the rack itself, then that is what you need to get. Don't try to cobble something out of something else.

Addicted2Boost · Post by **Addicted2Boost** » Tue Mar 23, 2010 3:07 pm

the first link are for power steering lines for a 05 sxt neon and i cannot find the hardline on the rack im trying to replace

Danteneon · Post by **Danteneon** » Tue Mar 23, 2010 3:11 pm

Gotya. Yeah, that line is from the pump to the rack. The only place you will find the lines on the rack itself is through a dealer. Not cheap either

I would hit up a JY. They really don't wear out (as long as they haven't rusted).

Addicted2Boost · Post by **Addicted2Boost** » Tue Mar 23, 2010 3:14 pm

is there a way i can repair a hole in the line? the dealership said i cant replace the line i have to replace the rack. the lines are cheap but you have to buy the rack lol

Danteneon · Post by **Danteneon** » Tue Mar 23, 2010 3:42 pm

Ah, that is true...most of those lines are not sold seperately

As far as repairing them

What is damaged about it?

Addicted2Boost · Post by **Addicted2Boost** » Tue Mar 23, 2010 3:51 pm

my 3'' down pipe with cat wore a hole into the line from the vibrations the cat has a flat sharp edge on its side

Danteneon · Post by **Danteneon** » Tue Mar 23, 2010 4:13 pm

Ouch. Well, what you can do is have a line made. Find a shop that can make the same kind of flairs that the original line had, cut the old line and re-use the fittings on the new line. Oh, and fix the cat/line boarder dispute

Post by **occasional demons** » Tue Mar 23, 2010 4:58 pm

If the hole is not too large, You could degrease the line as best as possible, And take it to an A/C shop (household/commercial) and see if they would silver solder it. They do this to repair refrigerant lines all the time. Regular solder may work, but I believe silver solder is stronger. Brazing may work too, but the tube will need to be heated to a much higher temp, and there is the possibility of slag forming in the tube. Unless you are cranking the wheels as hard as possible in the lock to lock position, I doubt you would blow that silver solder off. Even at max pressure.

For normal driving, it will prolly out live the rack.

Addicted2Boost · Post by **Addicted2Boost** » Tue Mar 23, 2010 5:31 pm

soldiering is a good cheap idea I hope it works lol it would be easier then taking the whole line out i could add a shit ton of it and make it wrap around the whole piece but what to remove the grease with? i need something strong

hansken_yo · Post by **hansken_yo** » Tue Mar 23, 2010 5:41 pm

I'm gonna check my local pick n pull this weekend while i'm looking for other parts, but the idea just came to me while I was chatting with Addicted. What about brake hardlines? You can purchase that tubing a O'reily's or Napa auto... I dunno.

Post by **occasional demons** » Tue Mar 23, 2010 11:39 pm

As long as the diameter is the same, and the flare/flare nut. At worst, you could cut and reflare the ends, using the rack nuts. A double flare kit is usually under $30ish, so it's not like it would be a huge investment. Just mic. the tubing size to determine if brake line is available in the size of the rack tubing. Metric brake tubing is available, just a bit harder to find at times. Luckily 8mm/5/16 for example, is close enough, but the flare nuts are the difference most times between the SAE/metric lines.