dtc p 0551 power steering switch failure

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tim8600
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dtc p 0551 power steering switch failure

Post by tim8600 » Wed Mar 24, 2010 4:21 am

so the other day i was driving down the road when my cel came on. hooked up the scanner today and found that dtc p 0551 was set for power steering switch failure. Didn't notice any problem with the steering and it still bumped up rpm when steering wheel is turned in park. It also shows on the scanner that the switch is reading on and off properly when steering wheel is turned. I cleared the code and drove it home tonight and the cel light stayed off. Has anyone else had an issue with the power steering switch? And shouldn't the cel light go out on the next key cycle if its inactive?

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Post by occasional demons » Wed Mar 24, 2010 7:54 am

It can take up to 30 key cycles to clear a code. The switch is prolly on it's way out. They are around $35 and are in a hard to reach spot. So it is a matter of just doing it now, or waiting until the switch totally fails. If you have access to a lift, it isn't too bad. Just the lying on your back, and reaching it part.
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neonslg09
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Post by neonslg09 » Wed Mar 24, 2010 11:37 am

I have this code too, what happens when the switch totally fails...? :rofl:

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sidepipe87
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Post by sidepipe87 » Wed Mar 24, 2010 11:39 am

I think Adam just got this same CEL the other day too... His power steering already doesn't work though.
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esfan
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Post by esfan » Wed Mar 24, 2010 11:45 am

This code P0551 means your power steering switch fail. Engine stall will probably happen if you turn the power steering when at low RPM. Since it signal engine to rev higher to give power to power steering pump. I had that code for 2 years and the car runs totally normal. But it's recommended to change it. It is located on the power steering rack and pretty hard to reach. You need a wrench and an at least 8 cm extension and a 7/8 inch deep well socket. You also need at least 16 oz of power steering fluid (ATF for later model) since most of the PS fluid will be gone (and be ready to catch it with a pan underneath). Better to take the driver side wheel off and try to reach it from that point. Try to pull the wire off first (the hard part) and then it can be screw out easily. Took me 30 mins to change the whole thing.

Be sure not to tight the switch too tight, otherwise you will break the whole rack, and it's expensive!

Here's an How-To by BlackRoseRacing: viewtopic.php?t=23635

You can find the switch in AutoZone for $36.
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FAC3L3SS
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Post by FAC3L3SS » Wed Mar 24, 2010 1:30 pm

Indeed I did. It's not affected my driving at all. I cleared the code like 30 minutes after I got it, and I haven't gotten it back since. I'm sure I'll get it a few more times, but I'm not in a giant rush to replace it. My PS has been shot since I got the car. All it does is squeal and make the car crazy hard to turn.
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tim8600
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Post by tim8600 » Thu Mar 25, 2010 1:45 am

so i guess i will be replacing that switch sooner than i thought. The cel light came back on today on my way to work.

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