valve cover metal?

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DOSneons
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valve cover metal?

Post by DOSneons » Sun Mar 28, 2010 12:54 pm

what type of metal, metals is the valve cover made of? i have a guy that does anodizing ans shit but he needs to know what kind of metal it is before he can do anything.

if anyone knows id appreciate it
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cbjones26
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Post by cbjones26 » Sun Mar 28, 2010 1:12 pm

aluminum isnt it?

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MrAngry
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Post by MrAngry » Sun Mar 28, 2010 1:15 pm

I dont think its aluminum, it seems to be a little harder then that. Im not 100% sure though.
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DOSneons
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Post by DOSneons » Sun Mar 28, 2010 1:23 pm

i am thinkin it may be more than one metal cuz he couldnt identify it completly
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MrAngry
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Post by MrAngry » Sun Mar 28, 2010 1:28 pm

It could be, the baffles inside are more then likely aluminum though.
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DOSneons
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Post by DOSneons » Sun Mar 28, 2010 1:32 pm

ive searched everywhere i cant find anything on what its made of
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r/tguy02
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Post by r/tguy02 » Sun Mar 28, 2010 2:38 pm

The 2gn one is aluminum, but the 1gn metal ones I'm not sure.
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INVUJerry
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Post by INVUJerry » Sun Mar 28, 2010 3:03 pm

Stick a magnet to it. If it sticks, it's steel, if it doesn't, it's aluminum.
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Post by occasional demons » Sun Mar 28, 2010 6:38 pm

Assuming we a talking an R/T or Mancini PC cover:

Cast aluminum, most likely, if the magnet doesn't want to get all close and personal.

But to be anodized; anything that is steel, like the oil baffle, or attaching hardware must be removed.

I don't believe there are any steel inserts from the factory in them, but if say a coil mounting boss has had stripped threads repaired with a heli coil, it must come out.
Otherwise there will be a big hole where the steel was. Something to do with two different metals when they put the current to them in the anodizing process.

You may want to clean any threaded holes with a bottoming tap, and blow them out with compressed air, just to be safe.
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DOSneons
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Post by DOSneons » Tue Mar 30, 2010 8:19 pm

well he is gonna clean it all up, and cover anything that doesnt need anodized, his company does great work. so hopefully i can get this done, i just gotta figure out what color to go with
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fixitmattman
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Post by fixitmattman » Tue Mar 30, 2010 10:55 pm

It would either be aluminium or magnesium.
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Post by occasional demons » Wed Mar 31, 2010 7:35 am

Magnesium + DCX = No. :D

They wouldn't even keep a cup holder light. :roll:
Bill
Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.

2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap

DOSneons
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Post by DOSneons » Thu Apr 01, 2010 11:25 pm

its aluminum, there was to much gunk and shit on it for his metal reader thing to work. i cleaned it up he tested it and its aluminum so
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occasional demons
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Post by occasional demons » Fri Apr 02, 2010 1:00 am

De bur and polish it, then have it hard anodized. Depending on how long they leave it depends on how dark it will get. Anywhere from a light gray to a dark gray. It will never corrode, and the surface will be harder than steel. It doesn't add anything to the surface, so anything that is threaded will be the same dimension. It just penetrates into the metal.

It won't necessarily be shiney, but it may re polish out. It would be different.

A side benefit would be you could cook breafast on it, and it won't stick. :P

http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-hard-anodizing.htm
Bill
Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.

2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap

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