p0743 ?

elstopneon · Post by **elstopneon** » Tue Mar 30, 2010 10:06 am

Ok I went and got my rear main seal done, serp. Belts, oil pan gasket,new starter and pos battery cable and the output shaft on the trans. When everything was put back together I noticed the car seems like it shifts hard and the rpms go really high before it shifts to the next gear. And my engine light is on. I want to kno some possible causes for this. Thanks[/u]

Post by **occasional demons** » Tue Mar 30, 2010 10:52 am

Something to do with the torque converter solenoid circuit. The TC is prolly not locking up, hence the higher rpms. Possibly a connector is not seated properly, or a wire was damaged.

elstopneon · Post by **elstopneon** » Tue Mar 30, 2010 10:57 am

Ok would I have to drop the trans again to access the wires??

Post by **occasional demons** » Tue Mar 30, 2010 12:07 pm

You shouldn't. The connector is near the shift selector shaft IIRC. As long as the problem is not from the connector to the solenoid on the valve body, you should not need to drop the pan. It may be possible that the solenoid is bad tho, but since work was just done, I wold check the connector/wiring.

elstopneon · Post by **elstopneon** » Tue Mar 30, 2010 3:07 pm

Ok can you post a picture of that area if possible?

OB · Post by OB » Tue Mar 30, 2010 3:40 pm

Why not bring it back where the work was done?

elstopneon · Post by **elstopneon** » Tue Mar 30, 2010 5:18 pm

Ok here's the deal, After he did everything he said everything would have to settle in and its going to run alittle funny for a couple miles until they wear in. He told me to get a tranny fluid change, but I feel like thats not going to help with the problem. Me honestly I think he damaged my trans when he did the rear main. SO im kinda scared to let him do it again. So am i wrong or right for thinking this?

Post by **occasional demons** » Tue Mar 30, 2010 6:14 pm

The only thing that could be damaged when separating the engine trans assembly, would be if the TC was pulled out enough to be pushed back in, without getting the pump ears back into place correctly. That would destroy the pump. The car might make it 50 feet if that far.
You said the output shaft was replaced? Possibly the governor weights/springs are not assembled correctly, or are damaged. That would affect the shift points/line pressure.

I would take it back to the place that did it, and let them drive it/ride with you and let them see for themselves. If they don't want to fix it, then tell them you will have it repaired at another shop, and your lawyer will send them the bill. A call to the BBB may help also.

elstopneon · Post by **elstopneon** » Tue Mar 30, 2010 7:16 pm

Ok honestly how much you think I'm looking at if this is the problem??.. the person who did it was my mechanic he did it outside of work on the side at his garage.

Post by **occasional demons** » Tue Mar 30, 2010 10:00 pm

GOVERNOR
The governor may be serviced by removing the
transaxle oil pan and valve body assembly. The governor
may be unbolted from the governor support
and removed from the transaxle for reconditioning or
replacement.
When cleaning or assembling the governor, make
sure the governor valves move freely in the bores of
the governor body.

If this is the actual problem, then it may not cost more than $100 to fix./? But not really knowing what is screwed, you may have been better off going to a professional shop.
Edit:
Your throttle cable adjustment might be off also. (Kick Down) there is a black slide adjuster that you can move to adjust the length of the cable. This might be the whole problem. It has been a while since I have messed with ATX's so that slipped my mind. It won't fix the CEL tho. That is electrical, not mechanical.

elstopneon · Post by **elstopneon** » Wed Mar 31, 2010 9:28 am

I did noticed since I gotit back the gas pedal is much harder to push down, maybe he adjusted it to tight. I'm going to go outside in a little bit and adjust i let you know how it went.

Alex Kurdian · Post by **Alex Kurdian** » Wed Mar 31, 2010 7:22 pm

Friggin Dodgey mechanics STRIKE AGAIN!!

elstopneon · Post by **elstopneon** » Thu Apr 01, 2010 3:38 pm

O i messed around with the cable that goes the trans near the throttle and cruise control cable, and it fixed the whole shifting thing. Now my only problem is getting the cel light to go off. any ideas?

Post by **occasional demons** » Thu Apr 01, 2010 8:42 pm

You could try disconnecting the battey, and turning on the headlights, if reaching through the window, or stepping on the brake pedal. Then shut off the headlights/close the door, and reconnect the battery. And hope it doesn't come on again.

elstopneon · Post by **elstopneon** » Wed Apr 07, 2010 3:48 pm

That didnt work either, I noticed my gas mileage is horrible now, and lets say if I was to pull over in idle in drive, when I take off there is a cloud of blueish colored smoke behind me and the car does feel alittle rough when im sitting at a stop light. any ideas?

elstopneon · Post by **elstopneon** » Thu May 13, 2010 9:44 am

*** Bump *** video uploaded

The car smoke just like that but worse on a hot day and at a stop light

ps. the car was warmed up and it was a nice day

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D3YOzg71hDY

iskyfly · Post by **iskyfly** » Thu May 13, 2010 1:02 pm

elstopneon wrote:there is a cloud of blueish colored smoke any ideas?

blue smoke = engine oil.

elstopneon · Post by **elstopneon** » Thu May 13, 2010 2:58 pm

ok when I got everything done a fresh oil change was done? you suppose I need another one?

darthroush · Post by **darthroush** » Thu May 13, 2010 3:30 pm

No, that means the engine is burning oil. Did it do that before?

elstopneon · Post by **elstopneon** » Thu May 13, 2010 3:33 pm

no it would just leak a quart or 2 a day, but there isn't any leaks on the ground at all just leaks that would come from the exhaust