5v regulated supply

MyNeonSaysHi · Post by **MyNeonSaysHi** » Tue Apr 06, 2010 1:17 pm

output. Do not connect 12v to this sensor, it will destroy it!
Specifications:
 +/- 1% accuracy from -40° C to 105° C
 Compact size, excellent price/performance ratio
 5 V-dc Input with 0.5 to 4.5 V-dc Output
The sensor will need a 5v and ground connection which can be obtained from our 5v
sensor power supply (part number Sens010), or another sensor such as the MAP or
throttle position, or directly from the car’s PCM. Tapping into another sensor’s 5v
signal will not effect that sensor’s operation as long as the connection is solid and
insulated properly to prevent a short to ground.Run the sensor’s output wire to the data acquisition device such as the Interceptor scan
gauge. For Interceptor users, choose any available analog input.

Their 5v sensor power supply is like $23 + shipping. Any one know of an alternative or other areas on the car other then the MAP / TPS I can tap into for a 5v regulated supply?

Thanks.

Post by **jonnymopar** » Tue Apr 06, 2010 2:31 pm

Not really. Almost the entire car is 12V other than a few sensors. Why don't you want to use the 5V sensor supply from the PCM? Afraid you'll overload it?

MyNeonSaysHi · Post by **MyNeonSaysHi** » Tue Apr 06, 2010 2:49 pm

My TPS is already tapped for my CMGS controller. I honestly don't want to mess with my MAP wiring. And yeahhh I don't want to tap into my PCM. But that might happen.

Where can I get something similar to a 5v regulated sensor supply? $23 seems over priced.
http://www.lethalperformance.com/03-04- ... ly-p-30029
But if I need it might as well right?

fixitmattman · Post by **fixitmattman** » Tue Apr 06, 2010 3:23 pm

that's great. Here's how you make some money. Buy one of these, solder some wires, bolt it to a small al. plate, cover it in heat shrink, and charge $23

http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/produc ... cts_id=107

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index ... Id=2062599

Seriously, pay more than $2 for one and you're paying too much. If he's buying them in bulk they should be like .25c a piece.

Input 12v and gnd from your favourite source, get regulated 5v out. As long as it's for sensor duty 1A should be plenty. Should be fine sharing a common ground (this one does). Recommend bolting to chassis or metal somewhere to act as a heat sink.

Danteneon · Post by **Danteneon** » Tue Apr 06, 2010 3:26 pm

Your PCM has a 5v supply in it already.

K6 18VT/WT (2.4L TURBO) 5 VOLT SUPPLY

K7 18OR 5 VOLT SUPPLY

Either of those should give you the signal you need.

MyNeonSaysHi wrote:And yeahhh I don't want to tap into my PCM. But that might happen.

It isn't all that bad you know

MyNeonSaysHi · Post by **MyNeonSaysHi** » Tue Apr 06, 2010 5:07 pm

I am the biggest wiring noob.

I ordered a nice solder gun that Zerochad is using, waiting for that to come in.

That picture you posted looks foreign to me.

So unplug any PCM connector and tap into a random wire? I noticed on the PCM there is one outlet that is connected with a cover of some sort, like its an extra one.

Thanks for the links fixxitmattman.

Danteneon · Post by **Danteneon** » Tue Apr 06, 2010 7:06 pm

The 4th connector isn't used on a SRT because it is reserved for ATX control.

If you go to the 1st connector on your PCM and find the Violet wire with a White tracer, or at the 2nd connector and find the Orange wire, those will be the wires you can use.

MyNeonSaysHi · Post by **MyNeonSaysHi** » Tue Apr 06, 2010 11:53 pm

Okay sounds good.

MyNeonSaysHi · Post by **MyNeonSaysHi** » Wed Jun 16, 2010 12:54 pm

Still haven't done this yet. But want too.
Anyone have a list of 5v regulated sensors on neon that aren't that important in case something went wrong?

I love post number 4. But I am not sure how to make my own 5v regulated suplly and how-to's? I just see a link for this 3 prong thing. No idea how to utilize that. Further explanation is needed!

Post by **racer12306** » Wed Jun 16, 2010 12:57 pm

Of those three prongs one is a 12V in, a ground in and the other is a 5V out.

ZeroChad · Post by **ZeroChad** » Wed Jun 16, 2010 1:49 pm

It would be good to use a capacitor for input filtering too. Automotive power is DIRTY! A 0.33 microfarad cap should be adequate. You connect one end to the 12V pin and the other to the gnd pin.

Jenni · Post by **Jenni** » Wed Jun 16, 2010 3:11 pm

buy a fixed voltage controller at radioslut!

12V and ground input - 5Volt output

Easy - but they get pretty hot...

Post by **occasional demons** » Wed Jun 16, 2010 3:15 pm

Tapping into the PCM's 5 volt supply should be a clean source.

But I can understand not wanting to splice into a wire. I wonder if the spare ATX port has anything connected to it for power out. That would be a nice place to tap into. And even better if there is a separate 5 volt source from the other pin outs. At least if it failed the PCM would still function. It would require an ATX connector tho. :/

EDIT: Carsten, (SP?) they also sell heat sinks to mount those to. A small chunk of aluminum will work too, just get the thermal transfer compound for the finishing touch. The heat sink also acts as a support to protect the legs from breaking. (Provided you mount it to the board, if using a board)

MyNeonSaysHi · Post by **MyNeonSaysHi** » Thu Jun 17, 2010 1:48 am

I need pictures. How do you connect to the prongs? Wrap the wire around it and solder? Excuse my n00bness to this.

Jenni · Post by **Jenni** » Thu Jun 17, 2010 8:58 am

just solder the wires to the prongs and secure them with heat shrink. Thats it.

If you install the chip to a cooler - pay attention: Some of them destroy if you mount the cooler at ground (if you in fact connect the middle pin and the metal head)!!!

They offer insulating things - so you could mount that chip directly to a metal piece in the car. (No need to remove the paint from said body part!) Just ask the guys at radioslut!
Don't forget thermal conductive paste...

I am too lazy for translation - green and red are the insulating parts - so chip and ground cannot touch eachother...

Btw: Carsten was right spelled!

Post by **occasional demons** » Thu Jun 17, 2010 9:22 am

If you want to get fancy with it...

viewtopic.php?t=36541

Courtesy of Dino Savva

I would also recommend getting a pair of needle nose pliers, or vise grips, just a small pair, and clamp gently across the pins near the regulator body to act as a heat sink when soldering the wires to the regulator. This will help keep from overheating it, especially if you are not fast at soldering.

MyNeonSaysHi · Post by **MyNeonSaysHi** » Sun Sep 05, 2010 11:21 pm

Thanks for the tip. I finally picked one up. It was $1.70 with tax at RadioShack. Thats all I really need and some heatshrink right?

So just wrap wire around each prong and solder? Seems so weird.

I don't plan on mounting it to a board, going try to find a flat surface in the engine bay, sand the paint off and ground it there.

Jenni · Post by **Jenni** » Mon Sep 06, 2010 2:12 am

yes, just like you said. plain and simple!

but NOOOO - not grounding!
The upper end of the chip is NOT allowed to touch the ground!
Or you have to use the insulating things like shown above!

(could be that in the meantime are some chips on the market with grounded head, but i am not sure. you should find that out before you burn the chip!)

EDIT: Yes, i found out yesterday that there are 2 types of that chips - one that you can ground and one that you cannot.
So ask before you install it!

MyNeonSaysHi · Post by **MyNeonSaysHi** » Wed Sep 08, 2010 12:54 am

So how the hell do you mount it then?

I will take pictures of it... I also found this online:
http://www.seetron.com/an_vpwr1.htm

I do not understand it though.

ZeroChad · Post by **ZeroChad** » Wed Sep 08, 2010 1:12 am

Use mica insulators with plastic bolts.

Jenni · Post by **Jenni** » Wed Sep 08, 2010 6:28 am

baaaah, the circuit is nice and makes a very flat and constant 5V output.
maybe not bad if you need the 5V for a sensor.

You can scratch D2, D3 and R1 if you use the 7805.
D1 is a simple diode which protects the whole thing from reverse polarity.
C1-3 straighten voltage fluctuations.
C1 and C2 are polarised electrolytic capacitors (like the purple one in the picture), c3 is just a simple capacitor.

You can get all this parts at radio slut for some pennies!

If you use the 5V for maybe a mp3 player or such you will not need the electronics. But if you need a very correct and constant signal (like for a sensor) you will need it.

But it is absolutely easy.

Just stick all the parts on a strip board, connect them and you will be fine.

Will look like this:

MyNeonSaysHi · Post by **MyNeonSaysHi** » Thu Sep 09, 2010 12:56 pm

UGhhhh I don't want that in my engine bay.

Maybe if I was Floyd from back to the future "I would.

I am thinking of just biting the bullet and spending the extra coin on the AE unit.

Jenni · Post by **Jenni** » Thu Sep 09, 2010 2:02 pm

they make little metal boxes for it.
i just noticed that you defintely need to mount it on a metal piece or it burns very fast...
So put it in a small box that is also a cooler the same time...

MyNeonSaysHi · Post by **MyNeonSaysHi** » Thu Sep 09, 2010 11:19 pm

I am curious how the one I have pictured is made.
I am sorry dude, I honestly don't think what you posted is for me, way over my head. I would have to have a parts list and know exactly what to do.

Jenni · Post by **Jenni** » Fri Sep 10, 2010 1:10 am

hehe, okay a little knowledge in soldering and electronics is really helpfull...

MyNeonSaysHi · Post by **MyNeonSaysHi** » Thu Sep 23, 2010 7:21 pm

Got the Aeroforce 5v regulated supply in post number 22. Turns out I am going to need an "Add-a-circuit" to keep the wiring safe. So I ended up getting this:
http://www.amazon.com/Pico-0956PT-Mini- ... sim_auto_7

MyNeonSaysHi · Post by **MyNeonSaysHi** » Sun Oct 17, 2010 11:38 am

Well last Sunday (10th) I had time to install. Well everything was going smooth until I ran into an issue...
Where can I put the "add a circuit" It will not fit in the PDC no matter which way it is turned, its just too big and there is no space.

Any other places that have a bolt where I can put the blade under for power? Alternator is my only other guess, but then the wiring will have to be close to my hot ass turbo... Hmmm

Red line on the bottom right side of picture.

This is what the 5v supply looks all ready with the "Add a circuit"