Stop the rattle! Or can I?

This is the place to ask questions about your engine components like cams, valves, pistons… just anything that is generally "engine" specific. This also includes questions about exhaust systems such as exhaust manifolds, piping size, mufflers, ect...
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dreamersrevenge

Stop the rattle! Or can I?

Post by dreamersrevenge » Wed May 05, 2010 5:25 pm

This might be a bit hard to explain, but when the car is cold it rattles like the old K cars did but when it warms up it's much quieter. At first I thought it was because of the cold weather until it finally stayed warm outside.. now it still does it. Is this normal after awhile? I don't remember it doing it so much when I first bought it but I know it does it now.

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Swordfish2Cowboy
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Post by Swordfish2Cowboy » Wed May 05, 2010 5:31 pm

Mine does it as well. There are a lot of cars that do it, and it's FAR worse in the colder months. Something about worn journals or something like that. Engine knock. Worn journals. I don't remember. Some things are replaceable that make it a bit better, others aren't.
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:mopar: :runaway:

dreamersrevenge

Post by dreamersrevenge » Wed May 05, 2010 5:34 pm

So it's pretty common... Just wanted to make sure. Looks like I'm keeping it for awhile and I don't want it to up and die on me.

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Swordfish2Cowboy
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Post by Swordfish2Cowboy » Wed May 05, 2010 5:35 pm

There are some things that you can do that help it, quiet the noise down, but I have no idea what those are. I'm putting a new motor in eventually, so I'll worry about it later, if ever.
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:mopar: :runaway:

Mr Josh Zombie
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Post by Mr Josh Zombie » Wed May 05, 2010 5:37 pm

We call that the "neon knock"

nothing to be alarmed about
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hybrid-Srt2001
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Post by hybrid-Srt2001 » Wed May 05, 2010 5:44 pm

it's either piston slap or lifters. both make noise in cold weather. it's nothing to be alarmed about as long as your oil comes out clean without metal shavings.
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[/quote]Yup it definately needs to go lower. If its not scrapeing constantly why you are driving then its not low enough bro. :lol:[/quote]

dreamersrevenge

Post by dreamersrevenge » Thu May 06, 2010 11:16 am

hybrid-Srt2001 wrote:it's either piston slap or lifters. both make noise in cold weather. it's nothing to be alarmed about as long as your oil comes out clean without metal shavings.

Yeah, so far it's been good. I try to keep it changed every 3000-4000 or as often as I can if past that, especially since I put 50+ miles on it daily. I'd always referred to that noise as the Chrysler Clatter, since I used to have a couple of K cars that did the same thing.

occasional demons
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Post by occasional demons » Thu May 06, 2010 12:03 pm

If it didn't go away once at operating temp, would say valve guides. New exhaust guides quieted mine up.
Bill
Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.

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Post by Mat » Fri May 07, 2010 2:10 pm

Both my '02 SXT and '02 ACR do it. Lifters in both cases.
Later cars use the 9.3:1 pistons which were originally spec'd for use in California LEVs...which I suspect weren't originally cold-weather tested and not especially fit for cold climates.
Fix it 'till it's broken. Then upgrade.

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Post by OB » Fri May 07, 2010 2:18 pm

Also keep in mind that on cold start the engine revs are 2-300 RPM higher to assist warm up and maintain idle. Engine vibration in the 2.0L just so happens to be worst around 1000-1300 RPM, so this surely adds to the issue. Obviously, cold weather makes for a longer warm up time, but once things reach operating temp the only part of the engine that is largely affected by the outside temp is the intake system. A cold day isn't going to create noticeable internal engine noise once warmed up, contrary to popular belief. Coolant temp doesn't lie.
-Derek

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occasional demons
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Post by occasional demons » Fri May 07, 2010 2:23 pm

Hmmm, mine vibrates the worst at 600 to 700 rpm. 800, and above, it is very tolerable.
Bill
Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.

2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap

heydockyle
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Post by heydockyle » Fri May 07, 2010 4:06 pm

Yea the lower rpm mine goes the more it vibrates because it wants to stall.

1gn with all solid mounts idles at like 1k thankfully. Around 700 it shakes like a dam blender.
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Post by Mat » Fri May 07, 2010 8:08 pm

You can always clean your IAC and TB to see if the stalling goes away. I need to do that with my new car.
Fix it 'till it's broken. Then upgrade.

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Post by OB » Sat May 08, 2010 1:14 am

occasional demons wrote:Hmmm, mine vibrates the worst at 600 to 700 rpm. 800, and above, it is very tolerable.
You have solid motor mounts? No one knows what these cars really act/feel like until they are fully in touch with them heh. I'd say mine is worst from about 900-1200 on the tach, give or take a few. What are you doing in the 600 range? Should idle around 750-850 with no loads on, are you talking about poor clutch use coming out of 1st?
-Derek

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occasional demons
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Post by occasional demons » Sat May 08, 2010 6:54 am

Just MM inserts, and it idles around 600 to 700 on a regular basis when fully warmed up. With "poor clutch use" there are times I can get it to hover at 300 rpm until it recovers. (clutch in) It is very smooth there. If not for the tach, you would think it stalled. But usually if you do stall it from too much clutch, it is not a pretty thing. I could prolly adjust the throttle plate up, but with the 60mm it gets much more sensitive to input with more idle air.
Bill
Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.

2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap

OB
Former Moderator
Posts: 9686
Joined: Tue Nov 15, 2005 9:38 pm
Location: Bay Area, CA

Post by OB » Sat May 08, 2010 2:06 pm

Yeah I've heard that the 60mm tb can make coming out of first tough.
-Derek

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