How To: Stuff Chrysler Concorde seats into your 2gn

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occasional demons
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How To: Stuff Chrysler Concorde seats into your 2gn

Post by occasional demons » Thu May 20, 2010 6:07 pm

I started by removing the 4 bolts that hold the seat. Once the seat is out of the car, you can see they left a convenient cut in the carpet to run the wiring.
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Just remove the scuff plates, lift the carpet, and feed the wires up through.
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I lifted the center console enough to run the wire to the passenger seat beneath it.
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I ran the wires under the scuff plate on the driver side.
This is how I powered the seats: I pulled the wiring from an old PDC
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Then soldered it to the wire, that I used for the pos (+) polarity.
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Remove the fuse box.
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Flip it over to expose the back side. I chose to only have the seats powered with the ignition on. Use a test light to confirm which connector strip is powered in the mode you prefer. This can be used to power other things, so there are 3 options: Ignition on only, Ignition/accessories, and keys out.
Once you determine which one suits your needs, just slide the terminal in until it locks.
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If you make a mistake, or have a spare fuse box, You need to remove the yellow front cover.
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There are locking tabs inside that can be pried out to pull the terminal back out.
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This is another option, tho it sucks if the fuse blows. This is how I had my trunk release fused before I had the spare PDC. I re did it while I was wiring this project.
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OK, put the fuse box back together, if it was taken apart, and reinstall it. I grounded the neg (-) polarity wire to the screw near the fuse box.


Now it is time to make some mods, and adapters.
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The Concode seat rails are a bit shorter, and wider than the neon’s. Cut a piece of cardboard large enough to span the differences..
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Bolt it down with the oem hardware, and place the seat on top of it. You want to be sure the front mounts are all the way against the front mounting rail. This is the only location that lines up correctly.
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Mark the hole locations for the rear on the cardboard.
Then make some adapter brackets. I chose 10 gauge steel.
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I then bought some 12mm button head screws, and tapped the holes for the seat rails. I used loc-tite to keep them from backing out. I am using ny-lock nuts to hold the seat rails to the adapter.
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I took this to show the different angles the front mounts use. The inner mount on both sides must be cut off, and it needs to point straight down, instead of angling inward.
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Like so:
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This is what they look like installed:
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One thing I still need to do, is cut the large end off the scuff plates. The part at the rear of them will not clear the controls on the seats. They are a tight squeeze to reach with the doors closed, but still reachable. Possibly down the road, I may relocate the controls.

Some random comparison shots between the Concorde and neon seats.
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neon
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Concorde
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The base showing the motors/mechanicals.
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This part alone list for over $700 each side. Thankfully everything fuctions!
It was well worth the risk of bidding on these, hoping they would physically fit. I was scouting out cars in parking lots like a creeper, to try and get an idea of what was close to the neon seating. People prolly thought I was looking for loose items to steal.

Edit: Crappy video...

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Last edited by occasional demons on Sat Feb 16, 2013 12:07 am, edited 3 times in total.
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heydockyle
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Post by heydockyle » Thu May 20, 2010 7:41 pm

So the front mounts have to be cut off and rewelded straight?

I wonder what other seats we could do this with.


Very nice write up :thumbup:
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Red04SxtLuvr
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Post by Red04SxtLuvr » Thu May 20, 2010 8:15 pm

Power seats in a Neon, hmmmmmmmmmmmmm what a fanfukkintastic idea :-) I may have to scout out the junkyards for old Concordes with seats still in them. I wonder how that would work in my PT Cruiser. Will have to investigate further. Thanks for the great write-up and pics man.
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occasional demons
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Post by occasional demons » Thu May 20, 2010 9:53 pm

Thanks guys!
heydockyle wrote:So the front mounts have to be cut off and rewelded straight?
Just the front inner leg (facing the console on both seats), the outer one is good. It actually works to line everything up.


So on the driver seat, it would be the right one, and the passenger seat would be the left one. As sitting in the seat. If you have a decent bandsaw, and can weld or know someone that can, it isn't too difficult.

Thankfully it is only 4 screws to remove them. I spent a good 5 days, removing them, and test fitting/making the brackets, etc.

Also, I swapped the seat belt latches. The Concordes must be made for bigger ppl. :lol: They were a little wide for the neon insert. It would latch, but could pivot around in there quite a bit.

Edit: Oh, and there is just no simple way you could use the neon base on these seats. Being the recliner is power, it will not even come close to working. Maybe if you could find some non power seats, it might be able to fit. But I would bet some kind of adapter plate would be in order.
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Mr Josh Zombie
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Post by Mr Josh Zombie » Thu May 20, 2010 11:00 pm

your seats don't match :lol:

also, anyone that may want a spare fuse block for a neon, i happen to have one chillin' in my closet. just PM me
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occasional demons
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Post by occasional demons » Thu May 20, 2010 11:25 pm

Yeah, the back seat is still the Mickey Thompson "I" design. :lol:

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I wish the fabric design was available to re do the door panels/rear seat. I actually have the Concorde rear seat, but I doubt there is enough fabric to cover it all. If it would fit, I would have swapped it too, but there is no fold forward feature to them, and I do use that a lot.
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Midnight_Rider
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Post by Midnight_Rider » Fri May 21, 2010 3:39 am

Great writeup! The people on this site who come up with things like this always amaze me :bowdown: .

Y'all knew that a power driver's seat was available on BUX's, right? It's in the Service Manual.
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occasional demons
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Post by occasional demons » Fri May 21, 2010 7:36 am

I figured that much. Just from the pre cut carpet for the wiring got me thinking. BUX gets all the cool stuff. I figured this was cheaper, and faster than finding BUX seats. :D Memory seats would have been the ultimate, but I believe the memory module is integrated into the RKE or something of that nature. That would take some major wiring/voodoo to get it to work in/with neon RKE, let alone a base neon. This was simple to wire, just two strands. :thumbup:
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occasional demons
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Post by occasional demons » Sat May 29, 2010 7:09 pm

Bump for video. (1st post)
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Haganracing
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Post by Haganracing » Sat May 29, 2010 7:18 pm

Nice!

Did you do a weight comparison on the chairs by any chance?
occasional demons wrote:So maybe a FuzzyDanteHagan sammich might just beat a FuzzyHagan. :-k
Danteneon wrote:My advice is to fight those urges and enjoy the fact that you have both X and Y chromosomes. And an SRT. And your hand. You don't need a girl.

occasional demons
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Post by occasional demons » Mon May 31, 2010 10:45 pm

Don't have any scales handy to weigh them. I had thought about it. My guess would be prolly 10 to 15 pounds gained for the pair.

These would not be a consideration for someone looking to shave weight. They are heavier, but not a ridiculous amount. Not as much as I had expected anyways.
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Haganracing
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Post by Haganracing » Tue Jun 01, 2010 2:00 am

Wow, thats not too bad of a weight gain.

Hmmm.. :lol:
occasional demons wrote:So maybe a FuzzyDanteHagan sammich might just beat a FuzzyHagan. :-k
Danteneon wrote:My advice is to fight those urges and enjoy the fact that you have both X and Y chromosomes. And an SRT. And your hand. You don't need a girl.

gcretro
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Post by gcretro » Sat Dec 28, 2013 10:30 pm

Are there seats from other Dodge/Chrysler cars that will fit without fabrication?

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