Engine Painting/Wire Tuck
Engine Painting/Wire Tuck
I have been debating on painting my engine bay parts and was wondering what type of paint to go with?
I want to use the silver and flat black on parts, also looking into cleaning up the wires/lines in the engine bay.. how mant ft. of vac and oil line should i purchase? And also where would a good place tuck the lines be?
The electrical lines wont be a problem for me, its just the fluid lines I am unsure about.
I want to use the silver and flat black on parts, also looking into cleaning up the wires/lines in the engine bay.. how mant ft. of vac and oil line should i purchase? And also where would a good place tuck the lines be?
The electrical lines wont be a problem for me, its just the fluid lines I am unsure about.

01 Chrysler Neon : MTX Swap | Project Log | Never Gonna Let Go Of My Neon Till She's Driven Into The Ground... Or I Am!
110Km - 6.5l/km 50-60Km - 8l/km
- gtxtreme19
- 2010 Silver Contributor
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Where would good places be to route the lines?

01 Chrysler Neon : MTX Swap | Project Log | Never Gonna Let Go Of My Neon Till She's Driven Into The Ground... Or I Am!
110Km - 6.5l/km 50-60Km - 8l/km
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darthroush
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occasional demons
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Search so you can get info like this:
viewtopic.php?t=50437&highlight=wire+tuck
There are times when "Search" isn't the best option. Out of 4 threads on wire tuck, only this one delivers. Searching through 20 pages of a project log FTL.TheNumberOneD wrote:I know some of you don't like all the blue i have, so instead of getting rid of it, i just hid alot of the wires to the best of my ability.
Before Before (this was even too much for me... lol)
Before.
After
I hid that set of wires that ran over the throttle body under the throttle body, and the the throttle body cable got hid under the manifold.
I also put some krylon on the washer fluid cap, and removed some of the unessesary split loom.
I plan on keeping most of whats left, the only plans i have so far is to get some black split loom, to replace the A/C line under the radiator hose, and maybe the catch can hoses will get covered in the black split loom as well.
Besides that, a ground kit is on my to-do list, so the split loom on those ground wires will be replaced be either black 4or8awg or blue 4or8awg wires to clean it up a bit more.
You guys have no idea how important your imput is on how i customize my vehicle, and i was out of line to call out Andrew the other day, so i'm making this an Apology Thread as well.
Everyone on 2gn is awsome, i love you guys.
Oh, i didn't sleep at all last night, so i can't tell if those pictures are blurry... or i'm just not seeing right, but i'll get some better pictures later whenever i get the black split loom to clean up a few more things.
*updated Picture*
May 21st 2007
viewtopic.php?t=50437&highlight=wire+tuck
Bill
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
I've used Duplicolor and Rustoleum engine enamals before. I've had the best results with the Rustoleum.
Here's a turbo I did.
Rustoleum High Heat (http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=371) primer and flat black on the turbine housing and center section.
Rustoleum Engine Enamel (http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=372) primer, gloss black and gloss clear on the compressor housing.


Here the block done in primer, hemi orange and gloss clear.


Anything besides the block, valve cover and other hot stuff can be sprayed with regular spray paint and still be pretty durable. For best results engine enamel shoud be baked on (I used a small "torpedo" style propane heater to cure my big engine parts.). Although once the engine runs for a bit it'll cure fine too.
Here I used a regular flat black Rustoeum paint (http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=95) on the engine mount brackets (The brackets are located to the right of the oil filter and in the middle of the timing belt.).

Here's a turbo I did.
Rustoleum High Heat (http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=371) primer and flat black on the turbine housing and center section.
Rustoleum Engine Enamel (http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=372) primer, gloss black and gloss clear on the compressor housing.


Here the block done in primer, hemi orange and gloss clear.


Anything besides the block, valve cover and other hot stuff can be sprayed with regular spray paint and still be pretty durable. For best results engine enamel shoud be baked on (I used a small "torpedo" style propane heater to cure my big engine parts.). Although once the engine runs for a bit it'll cure fine too.
Here I used a regular flat black Rustoeum paint (http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=95) on the engine mount brackets (The brackets are located to the right of the oil filter and in the middle of the timing belt.).

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darthroush
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Meh. Takes a bit of time sometimes, but if you want an answer...
Here's one out there on the internet that took about a minute to find:http://www.importtuner.com/tech/0705_im ... index.html
Here's one out there on the internet that took about a minute to find:http://www.importtuner.com/tech/0705_im ... index.html
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unc-newbie
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occasional demons
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Paint on an engine block won't retain enough heat to mean anything. The coolant is going to take care of the heat. It is between the outer block and the cylinders. If the cooling system is so under rated that a coat of paint causes it to overheat, then it is time for a better system.
Just to put some perspective on it, there are engines out there with an inch of oil/dirt grime covering them, and they run just fine.
As long as you don't put 10 coats of paint on the radiator, it's all good.
If you are concerned about heat entering the internal cooling system, the piston, combustion chamber, and exhaust ports can be coated, but that is a bit overboard just for that reason alone.
Just to put some perspective on it, there are engines out there with an inch of oil/dirt grime covering them, and they run just fine.
As long as you don't put 10 coats of paint on the radiator, it's all good.
If you are concerned about heat entering the internal cooling system, the piston, combustion chamber, and exhaust ports can be coated, but that is a bit overboard just for that reason alone.
Bill
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap
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unc-newbie
- 2GN Member
- Posts: 111
- Joined: Sun Mar 07, 2010 7:47 pm








