WOT Box/2 Step Help

[DingoR/T04]

I have a 2004 r/t neon. I wired in my wot box/2 step in and i cannot get it to read down when I step on the clutch. everything else is working. I thought maybe the wire got pinched so I ran a jumper wire to test that and still not reading. From the pin out it shows c-3 pin 26 lg/bk wire. Is this correct? Any suggestions or help would be appreciated. Thanks

Sorry if this is in the wrong section. I didnt really know what to put this under.

[Mr Josh Zombie]

Well, I can't help you with your problem, however, I would suggest getting a cat-less exhaust. I had a 2-step on my cobalt SS/SC and destroyed the cat in under a couple hundred miles.

[Fuzzyneon]

Well, I can't help you with your problem, however, I would suggest getting a cat-less exhaust. I had a 2-step on my cobalt SS/SC and destroyed the cat in under a couple hundred miles.

Jerry had the same problem with a ebay highflow cat


what does it need to get hooked on the ground? for the clutch i know when i did my remote start i had to ground a yellow wire or somthing in there so it would start without the clutch in


i dont know if this helped lol

[DingoR/T04]

Well, I can't help you with your problem, however, I would suggest getting a cat-less exhaust. I had a 2-step on my cobalt SS/SC and destroyed the cat in under a couple hundred miles.

Jerry had the same problem with a ebay highflow cat


what does it need to get hooked on the ground? for the clutch i know when i did my remote start i had to ground a yellow wire or somthing in there so it would start without the clutch in


i dont know if this helped lol

Well thats not really my issue at the moment. The 2 step will come on while im driving with the regular setting because it reads that the clutch is down. I click on invert clutch and I can drive around like its not becuase it reads that the clutch is up. Its not getting a signal that the clutch has been pressed or depressed. My main concern is that I tapped into the correct wire. I will hopefully have an exhaust cut-out soon.

[ZeroChad]

Dang. Can't find a link to the 04FSM right now. I have the pdf of the 2000, but I doubt that would do you any good.

Well, I can't help you with your problem, however, I would suggest getting a cat-less exhaust. I had a 2-step on my cobalt SS/SC and destroyed the cat in under a couple hundred miles.

Was it only cutting spark and not fuel?

[racer12306]

I would think that a two step would only cut spark. You want a soft rev limit so it won't lag when you release it.

[DingoR/T04]

It cut spark when it thought the clutch was still down and I was driving and the car hit 4000rpms it about put me through the windshield. Needles to say I wore my seatbelt the rest of the day at the track.lol. It will cut ignition it just doesnt respond to the clutch being up or down. I can try to post what the program looks like so everyone knows what im talking about. I have work in about 30mins. so I will try post it tomorrow.

[ZeroChad]

Looks like you have the proper wire for the clutch upswitch. I'm not sure what the difference is between that and the "clutch interlock signal" yellow with red tracer wire though. Take a voltmeter to it while powered. See if its giving you 0V while up and 12V while depressed.

That is what the N2MB WOT box calls for. What brand do you have?

[Mr Josh Zombie]

Had the N2MB and yup, only cut spark. Ended up dumping a ton of fuel and killing it.

[DingoR/T04]

Looks like you have the proper wire for the clutch upswitch. I'm not sure what the difference is between that and the "clutch interlock signal" yellow with red tracer wire though. Take a voltmeter to it while powered. See if its giving you 0V while up and 12V while depressed.

That is what the N2MB WOT box calls for. What brand do you have?

Ok I will try that. I have the N2MB WOT/ 2step box.

[LowNSlow]

I think you should just sell me it.

I want a wot box and 2 step so bad... rofl

[DingoR/T04]

So I went to and tested the voltage on the clutch signal wire. Im getting 11.8v-12.0v at all times, with the clutch up or down. So its obv. that the issue is the voltage is not changing like it should. How do I fix this? Any ideas? thanks.

You think I should back probe the interlock signal and see if that changes voltage?

[2001rt32]

i had the same problem on my car, did you try switching the wires on the clutch? the only way i could get mine working right was with my laptop.

[DingoR/T04]

i had the same problem on my car, did you try switching the wires on the clutch? the only way i could get mine working right was with my laptop.

Please explain alittle more. I emailed jon at n2mb. He told me to do the same test for 0v-12v. I told him what happen and he said to test the switch for continuity. He thinks the switch is bad. If this were true wouldn't my car be acting up? I have no issues switching gears and the cruise control works great. I also thought maybe if the up switch is for your cruise control , maybe I should try it with the cruise control button turned on. Any ideas? Thanks

[occasional demons]

One switch is for the starter interlock, the other (top one) is to cancel the speed control. /other functions?

If I get time later, I'll try to dig up the wiring diagram.

[DingoR/T04]

I went out and unplugged the sensor. I jumped across pin 1 and 2 with the multimeter on the diode scale since there is no continuity symbol. The continuity did not read with the clutch up or down. Does this mean the sensor is working then?

[ZeroChad]

It sounds to me like the sensor isn't grounding it properly. Does the car disengage from cruise control when you press in the clutch?

[DingoR/T04]

It sounds to me like the sensor isn't grounding it properly. Does the car disengage from cruise control when you press in the clutch?

I don't know I will have to try that. Guess I will be back in 10min. lol

[occasional demons]

Upstop/Interlock switch.

Diagrams and pics.








That is about all I could find on the up stop switch.

[DingoR/T04]

So I went out and tested this theory. I am on cruise control at 50mph. I step on the clutch and the rpms climb about 300rpms and then falls off. I then let off of the clutch to and the cruise control has disengaged. So I assuming it suppose to shut right off without climbing 300rpms? Does this mean that the switch is not working properly? The car does have 94000 on it so i can believe it. I was told that when these switches go bad no one even notices unless the starter doesn't engage. Anyone else have this problem? Any other Ideas on testing this theory?

[occasional demons]

Hmmm, Possibly the upstop is not working.

Mine only raises RPM when I push it out of gear, with the clutch still engaged.

Otherwise, if I even breathe on the clutch pedal, the Speed Control will cancel immediately. No RPM rise whatsoever.

If the upstop is not functioning, it would just sense the RPM rise as slipping tires, or out of gear, and cancel.

[DingoR/T04]

Hmmm, Possibly the upstop is not working.

Mine only raises RPM when I push it out of gear, with the clutch still engaged.

Otherwise, if I even breathe on the clutch pedal, the Speed Control will cancel immediately. No RPM rise whatsoever.

If the upstop is not functioning, it would just sense the RPM rise as slipping tires, or out of gear, and cancel.

Thats the problem its not sensing anything. If it was sensing something the voltage would change. During the test the voltage did not change at all. Is this the same sensor that reads when the clutch is fully depressed so you car will start? I was thinking that was the starter interlock part of it.

[occasional demons]

No the upstop only tells the PCM when the pedal is first pushed in. It is not shown as part of the Speed Control wiring, but it definitely is a part of the system. I do not really know what other function it serves.

I an also not sure where it is in the pin out, as I think it shares the same connector with the interlock switch. IDK what if any voltage goes through it. It only serves to give a ground signal to the PCM for each input wire. Pin 1 and 3. One will be open when the other is closed. So it will only sense pedal fully up, or partially down.



Sorry, I was thinking of something else when I attched the brake stuff.


Edited post above , and added correct pinout...

[occasional demons]

CLUTCH INTERLOCK/UPSTOP
SWITCH
DESCRIPTION
LHD
The LHD clutch interlock/upstop switch is an
assembly consisting of two switches: an engine
starter inhibit switch (interlock) and a clutch pedal
upstop switch (Fig. 6). The switch assembly is located
in the clutch/brake pedal bracket assembly (Fig. 7),
each switch being fastened by four plastic wing tabs.
The clutch interlock switch prevents engine starter
operation and inadvertent vehicle movement with the
clutch pedal in the up position (not depressed), or
under normal conditions with the clutch engaged and
the transaxle in gear.
WARNING: WHEN THERE IS A LOSS OF CLUTCH
SYSTEM HYDRAULIC FLUID, OR THE CLUTCH
MASTER CYLINDER PUSHROD IS DISCONNECTED
FROM THE PEDAL LEVER, THE ENGINE MAY
START WITH THE CLUTCH ENGAGED, CAUSING
UNDESIRABLE VEHICLE MOVEMENT IF THE
TRANSAXLE IS IN ANY GEAR.
The switch is open while the clutch pedal is at rest
or in the up position. When the clutch pedal is fully
depressed on LHD models, the clutch pedal lever
closes the switch, completing the signal circuit from
the PCM and closing the ground path, allowing
engine starter operation. When the clutch pedal is
fully depressed on RHD models, the master cylinder
push rod closes the switch, completing the signal circuit
from the PCM and closing the ground path,
allowing engine starter operation. The interlock
switch is not adjustable.
CLUTCH PEDAL UPSTOP SWITCH
With the clutch pedal at rest, the clutch pedal
upstop switch is closed, allowing speed control operation.
When the clutch pedal is depressed, the upstop
switch opens and signals the PCM to cancel speed
control operation, and enter a modified engine calibration
schedule to improve driveability during gearto-
gear shifts. The upstop switch is not adjustable

CLUTCH INTERLOCK SWITCH
Mechanical Test
(1) With the park brake set and the transaxle IN
NEUTRAL, turn the ignition key to the start position.
The engine starter should not crank with the
clutch pedal at rest (not depressed). If the starter
cranks, proceed to the electrical test to determine
whether the switch is defective or the circuit is
shorted. If the vehicle does not crank, proceed to the
next step.
(2) With the park brake set and the transaxle IN
NEUTRAL, fully depress the clutch pedal and turn
the ignition key to the start position. The engine
starter should crank. If the starter does not crank,
visually inspect the clutch pedal for obstructions
(floor mat, etc.). Make sure the clutch pedal lever
contacts and fully closes the switch on LHD applications,
and for proper installation of the master cylinder
push rod/bushing on the pedal pin on RHD
applications.
Electrical Test
(1) Move ignition key to the “OFF/LOCK” position
and remove key.
(2) Set park brake.
(3) Disconnect the clutch interlock/upstop switch
connector.
(4) Using an ohmmeter, check for continuity
between terminals 2 & 3 (Fig. 11) with the interlock
switch not depressed (clutch pedal at rest). There
should be no continuity between the terminals (open
circuit).
(5) LHD Models: Fully depress the clutch pedal to
close the switch. The switch button should compress
at least 1.25 mm (0.050 in.) on LHD applications.
The ohmmeter should show continuity (0 ohms resistance).
RHD Models: Disconnect the push rod from
the pedal pin and actuate the push rod by hand to
close the switch. The ohmmeter should show continuity
(0 ohms).Inspect the plastic push rod retainer
for damage. If it is damaged (broken/cracked) it
MUST be replaced before reinstalling the push
rod to the pedal.
(6) If ohmmeter readings do not fall within these
ranges, the switch assembly, or the pedal bracket
assembly, is defective and should be replaced. If the
switch tests ok, wiring is defective.
UPSTOP SWITCH
Mechanical Test
(1) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(2) Start engine and operate speed control to maintain
speed.
(3) Depress clutch pedal at least 33 mm (1.30 in.).
Speed control operation should terminate. If speed
control does not terminate, the upstop switch is
defective or the related wiring is shorted. Proceed to
the upstop switch electrical test.
Electrical Test
(1) Move ignition key to the “OFF/LOCK” position
and remove key.
(2) Set park brake.
(3) Disconnect the clutch interlock/upstop switch
connector.
(4) Using an ohmmeter, check for continuity
between terminals 1 & 2 (Fig. 11) with the upstop
switch depressed (clutch pedal at rest). The ohmmeter
should show continuity (0 ohms).
(5) Depress the clutch pedal at least 33 mm (1.30
in.) check for continuity between terminals 1 & 2.
There should be no continuity between the terminals
(open circuit).
(6) If ohmmeter readings do not fall within these
ranges, the switch assembly is defective and should
be replaced. If the switch tests ok, wiring is defective.

[DingoR/T04]

Ok well here is part of the service manual you sent me. After reading through it I have alittle better understanding.

CLUTCH PEDAL UPSTOP SWITCH
With the clutch pedal at rest, the clutch pedal
upstop switch is closed, allowing speed control operation.
When the clutch pedal is depressed, the upstop
switch opens and signals the PCM to cancel speed
control operation, and enter a modified engine calibration
schedule to improve driveability during gearto-
gear shifts. The upstop switch is not adjustable.

When I go to the autoparts store what should I try to order? Do you have to order the whole thing? In the picture it looks like there is a connector and then 4wires running out, 2 wires to each.l Anyone Have to replace this to know? thanks.

[occasional demons]

I believe you have to buy/replace the complete assy. The parts drawing shows both switches and the connector as one assy.

4671756AB SWITCH, Clutch Starter Interlock $29.30

Duralast PN CR462 $29.99 SPECIAL ORDER

Might be faster to get it from your local dealer.

[ZeroChad]

+1 to replacing the switch. The text verifies what I saw in the diagram. The contacts inside the switch are probably worn to the point that they no longer touch and complete the ground circuit.

[DingoR/T04]

So I ordered the sensor and what showed up was the clutch sensor with only 2wires. I thought it was wrong so I went out and checked in the car. It matched the car. Where Im confused is I thought there was 2 sensors with 4 wires which there is for 01/02 neons. 03-05 there showing only one sensor with 2 wires. My question is: does that sensor have the interlock and upstop all in one? If so i would think that neither would work if part of it failed. Can anyone shed some light on this? If they are seperate on the 03-05 what should I get then? Thanks.

[DingoR/T04]

So can anyone help me out with this? Is this switch a all in one? It seems like I don't even have an upstop switch. Pictures in the manual show something completely different. I can take a pic if needed. Thanks

[ZeroChad]

That would help. I'll go look at it on my car tomorrow for ya.