Replacing the oil pressure switch HELP!!

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srtgtr34
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Replacing the oil pressure switch HELP!!

Post by srtgtr34 » Mon Jun 21, 2010 1:14 pm

Ok,

So i'm in the middle of an oil change and I bought a new switch because my old one is so shot, that actually shoots out oil under higher rpms.

I finally located it and wtf, How Am I supposed to take it off the block? I mean I can barely touch the dam thing with my hand let alone get a wrench on it. Its not accessable from the bottom only the top.

How did some of you guys get the switch out?, because I'm stumped over here.

Thanks

ZeroChad
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Post by ZeroChad » Mon Jun 21, 2010 1:20 pm

haha, it's super fun. I ended up buying an oil sensor socket to use b/c my regular ones weren't doing the trick. I also had the heat shields removed at the time.

I got at it by shoving my arms between the valve cover and firewall. It wasn't a good time.
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srtgtr34
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Post by srtgtr34 » Mon Jun 21, 2010 1:31 pm

Crap,

I'll try removing the heat sheild

I really don't want to go out and buy something else...

Thank you

occasional demons
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Post by occasional demons » Mon Jun 21, 2010 2:14 pm

If you remove the battery, it isn't too bad reaching around from there, and the top.
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srtgtr34
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Post by srtgtr34 » Mon Jun 21, 2010 4:09 pm

Well I currently have the battery out, the battery tray, the shift linkages and the mount that. Holds them in place. I can now reach the sensor pretty good.

But now the dam plug won't come off the sensor... these dam set backs.

And here I thought replacing this sensor wouldn't take more than 30 minutes..

heydockyle
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Post by heydockyle » Mon Jun 21, 2010 4:16 pm

Yep, major pain in the ass. Once you do get the wrench on it it takes forever to get it out because you have no room to move it back and forth.
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darthroush
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Post by darthroush » Mon Jun 21, 2010 5:59 pm

1 1/16" deep socket works very well. The most time consuming part for me was getting my hand and arm in the right spot.

occasional demons
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Post by occasional demons » Mon Jun 21, 2010 7:08 pm

Did you slide the red tab to unlock the connector release/locking tab? Sometimes the locking tab will also break, making it near impossible to disconnect. Some of my connectors have done this due to being brittle. I have to take a pick, and get it in there to lift the locking tab.
Bill
Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.

2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap

srtgtr34
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Location: Cleveland

Post by srtgtr34 » Mon Jun 21, 2010 9:05 pm

occasional demons wrote:Did you slide the red tab to unlock the connector release/locking tab? Sometimes the locking tab will also break, making it near impossible to disconnect. Some of my connectors have done this due to being brittle. I have to take a pick, and get it in there to lift the locking tab.
Yeah I did, the problem was getting my hand on to the tab to disengage it. After trying several awkward hand positions I finally gave up and grabbed some vice grips and it came right off.

No more engine oil leaks, but I spotted an oily drivers side ouput shaft seal on the transmission... :cussing:

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