dont shoot me but

Have some questions about how to achive better handling and stopping power using different springs, upgrading to coilovers, questions on swaybars, bushings, different rotors, pads, ect... Having any steering problems or questions about steering racks, tie rods, tie rod ends, ect... ask these questions here.
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Addicted2Boost
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dont shoot me but

Post by Addicted2Boost » Wed Jun 30, 2010 7:53 am

Is there a way to disengage the rear drum it went and the tire locks up while driving at random if I push the brake, Havent had much time to open it up and see what the problem is. This would only be a temp fix

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Post by dblsg » Wed Jun 30, 2010 8:43 am

i guess you could crimp the brake line... but i really don't see why you wouldn't take things apart first. might just be bad cylinders...
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Post by Addicted2Boost » Wed Jun 30, 2010 9:24 am

the cylinder is brand new,what if i remove the shoe?

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Post by acr » Wed Jun 30, 2010 9:30 am

just do a rear disc conversion.... :thumbup:

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Post by occasional demons » Wed Jun 30, 2010 9:52 am

If you remove the shoe, the cylinder will pop apart as soon as it sees pressure. Heck they pop apart with out pressure.

It could just be the humidity causing the drum to get light rust, causing it to grab. If all appears normal in there, you can have the drums turned, to break the glaze, and put new shoes in there.

Or do what I have to do when it is humid, or wet weather conditions: Pull the parking brake while moving slower than 20 mph. They will grab/squeal/throw all kinds of fits for 200 ft or so, then it clears up, and they work fine.

I'm not sure what they screwed up, but every DCX vehicle I've owned will do this. It is either the linings/cast iron in the drums/or whatever they use on the roads in the winter. Turning the drums will last about a year or so, then it starts all over again.

I don't recommend it, but you could vise grip both rear rubber lines to keep it from braking. I would replace those lines when you fix the root of the problem. That would be a last resort tho.
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Post by Addicted2Boost » Wed Jun 30, 2010 3:53 pm

took off the drum and the shoe fell right out it was no longer attached it, sale pending for srt rears though

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Post by Addicted2Boost » Wed Jun 30, 2010 5:39 pm

ok vice gripped that line ordered a complete rear brake setup from an SRT should be here early next week

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Post by OB » Wed Jun 30, 2010 6:04 pm

If the shoe fell off then you're either missing a spring(s) or the one of the mounting pins fell out. Why not just FIX the problem instead of replacing everything? It's not rocket science. If parts are broken or missing, replace them.
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Post by Addicted2Boost » Wed Jun 30, 2010 6:07 pm

the pad came off the shoes and I have wanted to upgrade for a while since I am boosted it will be nice to stop sooner also order SRT front setup too

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Post by OB » Wed Jun 30, 2010 6:20 pm

Oh the lining fell off the shoes? Well that'll do it!

Yeah an SRT brake upgrade is an awesome idea, I hope to do it someday. Need a reason to stop faster first though :lol:
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Post by Addicted2Boost » Wed Jun 30, 2010 9:50 pm

Will upgrading to srt brakes make a huge difference? I plan on doing steel brakelines and drilled slotted rotors too.

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Post by Therman2020 » Wed Jun 30, 2010 10:31 pm

Yeah i just had the same problem last month with my neon lol At the time it was the only car i had and i had to remove the pad and plate and drive 7 miles with out touching the brake in 8am Omaha Ne traffic down dodge street lol

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Post by OB » Thu Jul 01, 2010 12:26 am

From what I'm told they make a significant difference both in feel and stopping power. The overall larger size of them should theoretically be able to withstand much higher levels of heat, lessening the chance of fade. Great idea for a car that sees track time or autox. The only downside is the added weight. Oh and the fact that you can't run an OEM 15" wheels (nor most aftermarkets for that matter).
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Post by Addicted2Boost » Thu Jul 01, 2010 12:34 am

I have srt wheels and struts so I guess I will be selling my stockers and my snow tires :)

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