INJECTOR TICK

This is the place to ask questions about your engine components like cams, valves, pistons… just anything that is generally "engine" specific. This also includes questions about exhaust systems such as exhaust manifolds, piping size, mufflers, ect...
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neon god
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INJECTOR TICK

Post by neon god » Wed Nov 23, 2005 11:43 am

HEY HEARS ANOTHER ? FOR YA MY INJECTORS ARE TICKING REAL LOUD EVEN WORSE WHEN I PUT THE SCOPE ON THE FULE RAIL ANY SUGGENSTIONS WOULD HELP
oo neon carbonfiber hood ,homemade short shifter,ractive cia,and a wife with a ricer :(

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Diablo0
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Post by Diablo0 » Wed Nov 23, 2005 12:03 pm

Normal
-Jason
Black '02 Neon R/T | White '02 Neon R/T - SRT-4 Engine Swap
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^^^ no, that isn't what I look like haha
Try not to become a man of success but rather to become a man of value. - Albert Einstein

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22stars
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Post by 22stars » Wed Nov 23, 2005 12:30 pm

seriously all (almost all) 2nd gens have that tick ... some say engine knock, some say piston slap - but generally it's the same thing

as i've seen (somewhere in this forum actually) it's to do with a cylinder being out of round or some defect in the head through the factory that causes the sound

BlackRoseRacing actually got his short block replaced free under warranty because of it (and he knows folks ;) ) - there is also a dealer solution through STAR ONLINE at the dealer #K23024103 stating that is the solution for it ... i printed it out off here actually:

"STAR ONLINE Solution Number K23024103
Vehicle Issue Engine knock when cold.
Year 2003,2002
Model PL - Neon
Engine 2.0L 4 CYL SOHC 16V (SFI)
Category Customer Concern (no DTCs)
Symptom Knock, Cold
Operating Temperature When Issue Occurs Cold Start (After 8 hour Soak)
Case Verification Knock wil last for 2 to 3 minutes and knock will go away.
Will happen after 8 hour soak or a few hours of cooling down.
Verify that knock is coming from cylinders #1 and/or #4
Recommendation Replace the short block.
Comments Due to forging issues at the plant, when bolting the transmission in and the front motor mount to the engine the torque needed to fasten the transmission and motor mount will cause the block to distort causing the bore to warp on cylinders #1 and #4 causing the knock"

now i know that says "Year 2003, 2002" - but others with 2nd gens have noticed it as well

only problem is my dealer doesn't believe me, therefore won't do it unless i leave my car with them for a few days after it gets cold out so they can test it - i can't leave my car with them, i need it for work and can't afford a rental right now - plus i don't want to convert the entire thing to stock to get it fixed then do it again, ya know?

especially when it's an issue that is simply a noise and doesn't affect anything really

hope i helped

- Tony
2003 silver/black (cuda inspired stripes) ATX SXT :
Mpx UDP, Ravin Dual Exhaust, MSD 8.5mm Comp. Wires w/ NGK iridium plugs (stock gap), Screamin' Demon ignition coil, SRT springs, Vibrant strut tower bar, D.I.Y. S.R..A.I., Hayden 1402 supercooler trans cooler ... R.I.P August 5th, 2006 *tear*

Ifixyawata
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Post by Ifixyawata » Thu Nov 24, 2005 2:21 am

I've noticed it too with my '05 even at 15k miles it does it when it's cold. After that it's just the normal rattly sound of the engine. I usually chalk all of these minor things up to it being a cheap car.

lilolneon
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Post by lilolneon » Thu Nov 24, 2005 3:15 am

When I got it, me and my dad were wondering what that was, i figured it wasnt anything important, guess i was right :lol:
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