Cracked Tranny Housing.

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flhmfd
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Cracked Tranny Housing. wrong forum

Post by flhmfd » Tue Sep 07, 2010 7:22 pm

Image


this is what im faced with.

any suggestions as this is a pretty freshly built tranny with a brand new clutch.

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fixitmattman
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Post by fixitmattman » Tue Sep 07, 2010 8:34 pm

Bell housing swap, be sure to re-shim the diff.

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Post by flhmfd » Tue Sep 07, 2010 8:57 pm

how much work is involved in doing that swap?
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fixitmattman
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Post by fixitmattman » Tue Sep 07, 2010 10:39 pm

Drop trans, split trans case - a bit. In for about the same amount of work whether you swap bellhousings, or weld the old one up. Either way you're pulling the trans at a minimum.
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Post by ZeroChad » Wed Sep 08, 2010 12:52 am

Is that a bolt through the bell housing? If so, can you swap bell housings?
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Post by occasional demons » Wed Sep 08, 2010 12:24 pm

That would be an easy weld fix, if you have access to someone that can TIG. It is far enough out, you shouldn't have to worry about heat soak damaging anything. Just bevel the edges, and clean it good. Clamp the work ground near the break, so current isn't flowing through the MTX. Heck you could even leave it in the car, just unbolted enough to slide it away to weld it. I would pull the pcm for safety's sake. Granted being properly grounded it won't fry anything, but why risk EMF from blowing a chip.
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Post by Fuzzyneon » Wed Sep 08, 2010 4:22 pm

occasional demons wrote:That would be an easy weld fix, if you have access to someone that can TIG. It is far enough out, you shouldn't have to worry about heat soak damaging anything. Just bevel the edges, and clean it good. Clamp the work ground near the break, so current isn't flowing through the MTX. Heck you could even leave it in the car, just unbolted enough to slide it away to weld it. I would pull the pcm for safety's sake. Granted being properly grounded it won't fry anything, but why risk EMF from blowing a chip.
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flhmfd
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Post by flhmfd » Wed Sep 08, 2010 6:38 pm

thanks guys. i will inquire about welding.
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Post by flhmfd » Wed Sep 08, 2010 6:38 pm

thanks.

missing this bolt as well, its right beside the crack.

Image

need a new shifter cable?

Image

does this look right?

Image
Image

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fixitmattman
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Post by fixitmattman » Wed Sep 08, 2010 8:08 pm

What the hell did you do to that thing?
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Post by INVUJerry » Wed Sep 08, 2010 8:22 pm

Did a shop do this to the car? Swapping a bell housing will only take about an hour or so to do your first time. It's just the 4 hours of work to get there that is the problem.
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Post by flhmfd » Wed Sep 08, 2010 8:49 pm

just drove it... its a neon man lol.

the bottom picture tho.. what is that?
Image

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Post by occasional demons » Wed Sep 08, 2010 11:26 pm

flhmfd wrote:thanks.
need a new shifter cable?
Booger Bushings will fix that.

Bottom pic is the slave cylinder.
Bill
Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.

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1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap

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Post by NickKo » Thu Sep 09, 2010 7:20 am

flhmfd wrote:thanks.

missing this bolt as well, its right beside the crack.

Image
So there's a bolt missing ?
That would explain the crack in the bellhousing.

These cases are not supposed to be easy to weld successfully.
Just be sure to replace the missing bolt when all is done.


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-2001 ATX w/Syked PCM + Magnum header
-2001 ACR w/SRT T/B bored out to 55mm

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Post by OB » Thu Sep 09, 2010 1:27 pm

Welding aluminum is a bit over my head, never used a TIG before. So someone tell me, is welding cast aluminum similar to welding cast iron (i.e. not a good idea)?
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Post by sunburnedaz » Thu Sep 09, 2010 5:18 pm

Short answer is yes you have all the problems welding cast and all the problems welding alumuinum. Good welders can do it but you pay good welder prices for their services.

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Post by occasional demons » Thu Sep 09, 2010 5:49 pm

While I haven't TIG welded, the guys at work have never had an issue welding cast aluminum. I wouldn't exactly call them certified experts, but anyone with some TIG skills should be able to weld it.

Cleaning it, and beveling the edges are key to success. Degrease/clean it before beveling, you don't want to drag contaminants into the freshly exposed metal.

If nothing else, have it welded, and then weld some sheet aluminum over it for a little more strength.
Bill
Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.

2000 Neon MTX swap with '02 R/T PCM
1999 neon coupe 2.4 swap

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Post by NickKo » Tue Sep 14, 2010 9:33 pm

According to what I was told by a former Chrysler Engineer, (some guy named Ed), the aluminum they used, had a 'high-silicon' content, and does not weld easily, if at all.

Knowing this ^ in advance, you may want to talk to a professional welder, and find out what it takes to do this successfully, if it can be done at all.


- Nick
-1998 2-dr SOHC MTX= 57mm TB; Maddog STS
-2000 Ply.LX w/MTX = Maddog STS; CAI; 2.5 exh.; 60mm T/B
-2001 ATX w/Syked PCM + Magnum header
-2001 ACR w/SRT T/B bored out to 55mm

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flhmfd
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Post by flhmfd » Tue Sep 14, 2010 9:59 pm

thanks for the info guys.
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