Possible timing belt now!!! Help

Mootz · Post by **Mootz** » Wed Oct 13, 2010 2:58 am

Ok so just got done with the clutch and that PITA motor mount a week ago. While I had the timing cover off I saw a couple of teeth missing from the belt. Couldn't afford one at the moment after clutch and mount. Decided to wait till next payday. Put it all back together drove a week including a trip to San Diego. Had to for business. No problems. Tonight was driving home noticed a wierd clicking sound. Shut it off. Checked everywhere I have been lately mainly belts. Nothing loose nothing binding. Start it up again and turned ac on. Kind of sounded like the ac comp clicking. No change. Decide to wait till I get home aka garage and better light. This was at the gas station. Go to start again to go home cranks but no start. Has a wierd sound to the cranking. Pop the inspect plug in timing cover and have the wife bump the starter. Cam gear starts to turn then stops. WTF? Timing belt I am guessing but is it possible it lost another tooth and that part is spinning on the crank? What is the chance that I won't have bent valves? Wasn't running at the time and only cranked it a couple of times before I saw the cam gear. Totally f**ked if i need a new head. Help!!!

NickKo · Post by **NickKo** » Wed Oct 13, 2010 7:07 am

It sounds to me, like you will need to replace the cylinder head.

This may not be as bad as it sounds.
I've swapped over, using cylinder heads from the junkyard.

All you really need, are the VALVES from the junkyard/donor head.

If you do this yourself, you will save a TON of cash.

http://chronoscender.freeservers.com/ne ... gbelt.html

- Nick

Post by **occasional demons** » Wed Oct 13, 2010 9:46 am

You are going to have to pull the head to see what the damages are, and go from there. Check the pistons for contact marks. That alone will tell you if they made contact.
If the valves look good, then pull the rocker shafts, if you didn't when removing the head. Pour some solvent in the ports. There should be no seepage if the valves are seating. Some seepage after 10 to 20 minutes is prolly acceptable, but if a valve is bent, it is going to run out pretty quickly.

Mootz · Post by **Mootz** » Wed Oct 13, 2010 4:57 pm

Yeah kind of what I figured. I get the stupid award this week. lol Got it down to the timing cover put a socket on the crank rocked it back and forth a couple of times belt doesn't move. On to pulling the head then. Think what happed is it stopped on the spot where the teeth were missing and took one or two more. Wtf well this will be fun. Thanks for everything guys. Will update when I get the head off. Couple more questions. Do you have to replace head bolts and where do you wedge to hold the crank to get the bolt out?

Thanks,
Jamey

INVUJerry · Post by **INVUJerry** » Wed Oct 13, 2010 5:35 pm

What you're going to do to get the crank bolt out is pretty simple. Put the car in gear or park.

Buy yourself a cheap harbor freight electric impact gun. This will make your life 1000 times easier for this. Especially for re-installing the crank pulley. All you have to do is get it seated, thread the bolt in by hand, then hammer it home with the impact gun.

Mootz · Post by **Mootz** » Wed Oct 13, 2010 5:47 pm

Good idea about the impact I have a good air one though and putting it in gear doesn' help when it's up on stands.

r/tguy02 · Post by **r/tguy02** » Wed Oct 13, 2010 9:29 pm

if its already in the air, you'll need to take the access panel off the bottom of the trans, then take a small piece of steel angle (or something similar) and lock it into the teeth on the flywheel, it should hold it in place while you break the bolt loose or tighten it down.

furyman67 · Post by **furyman67** » Wed Oct 13, 2010 10:41 pm

Mootz wrote:Yeah kind of what I figured. I get the stupid award this week. lol Got it down to the timing cover put a socket on the crank rocked it back and forth a couple of times belt doesn't move. On to pulling the head then. Think what happed is it stopped on the spot where the teeth were missing and took one or two more. Wtf well this will be fun. Thanks for everything guys. Will update when I get the head off. Couple more questions. Do you have to replace head bolts and where do you wedge to hold the crank to get the bolt out?

Thanks,
Jamey

Yes replace the head bolts, they are designed to stretch,just plain old cheap insurance
Tom

Post by **occasional demons** » Wed Oct 13, 2010 10:55 pm

invujerry wrote:What you're going to do to get the crank bolt out is pretty simple. Put the car in gear or park.

With an ATX, park does not keep the crank from turning. I know you know that Jerry, but I had to

An ATX would need r/tguy02's solution, or just use the impact method, you don't even need to hold anything with an impact.

Two stout screwdrivers in the rotor vent holes will keep an MTX in gear from turning with the wheels removed, so you can slide the screwdrivers in.

Donkeypuncher · Post by **Donkeypuncher** » Thu Oct 14, 2010 7:03 am

I have an easier way than that. Wedge a block of wood (or something similar) between the seat and brake pedal while leaving it in gear. That will keep the wheels from turning and hold that crank real snug. It's a good idea to pump the brake pedal a few time first just so the caliper clamps down with good force.

INVUJerry · Post by **INVUJerry** » Thu Oct 14, 2010 11:50 am

occasional demons wrote:
invujerry wrote:What you're going to do to get the crank bolt out is pretty simple. Put the car in gear or park.
With an ATX, park does not keep the crank from turning. I know you know that Jerry, but I had to

An ATX would need r/tguy02's solution, or just use the impact method, you don't even need to hold anything with an impact.

Two stout screwdrivers in the rotor vent holes will keep an MTX in gear from turning with the wheels removed, so you can slide the screwdrivers in.

If it's possible to know less than nothing about atx's I know that much. Last time I drove one I put it into R for "RACE".

Jk, but I really didn't know that. An impact gun shouldn't matter. Also, make sure the block is at tdc when you pull the head. It'll make things easier.

Post by **occasional demons** » Thu Oct 14, 2010 12:34 pm

No problem, if you think about it, the engine/ATX would not like it if you put it in "P" while it was running.

heydockyle · Post by **heydockyle** » Thu Oct 14, 2010 3:03 pm

occasional demons wrote:No problem, if you think about it, the engine/ATX would not like it if you put it in "P" while it was running.

Yea, I never thought about that. But if you think about that common sense tells you park doesn't stop the flywheel because then the car would shut off.

Just never thought about it that much so it was news to me also.