pass delete kit!

XxWhiteNeonxX · Post by **XxWhiteNeonxX** » Sun Oct 24, 2010 9:13 pm

i got around to installing the pass delete kit today but havnt connected the battery because i was told the code that it will throw will need to be deleted through a chassis scanner and not a regular code reader. not sure if this is correct or not?

anyways, i read on mpx's blog about putting a 1/8th watt 2 ohm resistor on the airbag plug to get it to trick the computer. and i cant seem to find them anywhere

ive checked best buy, radioshack, advanced auto, tractor supply, k mart, walmart, autozone, and a hobbystore. i cant even find them online. does somebody know where i can get one of these resistors from? i need one asap. thanks

SlvrACR · Post by **SlvrACR** » Sun Oct 24, 2010 9:15 pm

Goto radio shack and get 2 1 ohm ones and put in series. Thats what I had to do

XxWhiteNeonxX · Post by **XxWhiteNeonxX** » Sun Oct 24, 2010 9:21 pm

SlvrACR wrote:Goto radio shack and get 2 1 ohm ones and put in series. Thats what I had to do

1 ohm 1/8 watt?

SlvrACR · Post by **SlvrACR** » Sun Oct 24, 2010 9:22 pm

yep they are white quares

XxWhiteNeonxX · Post by **XxWhiteNeonxX** » Sun Oct 24, 2010 9:24 pm

SlvrACR wrote:yep they are white quares

my local shack didnt have those either though

they dont even show up on their site

im pissed

ZeroChad · Post by **ZeroChad** » Mon Oct 25, 2010 12:06 am

If all else fails you can go on digikey or newark and buy some. Hell, you can probably snag some cheap one's on ebay.

Keep in mind higher wattage ratings will work fine too. (ie 1/4 or 1/2 W)

Jenni · Post by **Jenni** » Mon Oct 25, 2010 2:30 am

the wattage is absolutely nonrelevant.
It must be 2 Ohm, thats it.

Body scanner?
Never heard before.
Don't believe everything people tell you.

And OH MY GOD: You removed the airbag without removing the battery just because someone told you sone shit?

What good it did not explode...

Next time you know it better.

And really - where should the error code come from if you remove the batterie, the airbag and install the resistor before you reinstall the battery?

XxWhiteNeonxX · Post by **XxWhiteNeonxX** » Mon Oct 25, 2010 6:38 am

Jenni wrote:the wattage is absolutely nonrelevant.
It must be 2 Ohm, thats it.

Body scanner?
Never heard before.
Don't believe everything people tell you.

And OH MY GOD: You removed the airbag without removing the battery just because someone told you sone shit?

What good it did not explode...

Next time you know it better.

And really - where should the error code come from if you remove the batterie, the airbag and install the resistor before you reinstall the battery?

i unplugged the battery first. trust me, my dad was in the car business and ive heard some stories

and i meant if you reconnect the battery without the resistor ( until i could get ahold of one. cuz i really wanna drive my car )

ZeroChad wrote:If all else fails you can go on digikey or newark and buy some. Hell, you can probably snag some cheap one's on ebay.

Keep in mind higher wattage ratings will work fine too. (ie 1/4 or 1/2 W)

this info definitely helps. i thought of this before but i didnt want to try a higher wattage and fuck something up. ill try back at radioshack again today with the new info. thanks guys !

Post by **occasional demons** » Mon Oct 25, 2010 9:33 am

The CEL will not keep you from driving the car. It would be pretty dangerous if the engine quit when an airbag circuit failed. The air bag is gone, there isn't going to be any greater danger because the circuit is open. Just drive it until you get the resistor, and then reset the PCM.

(Disconnect the battery, turn on the headlight switch and let sit for a minute or two if you are really worried. Then turn off the switch, reconnect the battery.)

When it resets, it will see the circuit is complete, and the code should be gone.

Jenni · Post by **Jenni** » Mon Oct 25, 2010 10:00 am

easier way:
remove fuse 21 for a few seconds...

sorry, did not understand correct what you wrote but now i see...

XxWhiteNeonxX · Post by **XxWhiteNeonxX** » Mon Oct 25, 2010 11:27 am

occasional demons wrote:The CEL will not keep you from driving the car. It would be pretty dangerous if the engine quit when an airbag circuit failed. The air bag is gone, there isn't going to be any greater danger because the circuit is open. Just drive it until you get the resistor, and then reset the PCM.

(Disconnect the battery, turn on the headlight switch and let sit for a minute or two if you are really worried. Then turn off the switch, reconnect the battery.)

When it resets, it will see the circuit is complete, and the code should be gone.

what i meant is, if delelting the code requires a "chassis scanner" i dont have that. and therefore didnt want to plug my battery in yet so i wouldnt throw the code.

if there saying the wattage doesnt matter, is it possible to get too high of a wattage? meaning can you go up a certain amount without a difference or will any wattage work as long as its 2ohm?

Jenni wrote:easier way:
remove fuse 21 for a few seconds...

sorry, did not understand correct what you wrote but now i see...

Post by **occasional demons** » Mon Oct 25, 2010 12:37 pm

The wattage is only what the resistor will handle. More wattage means it will never burn out in this application. It will have no bearing on how the current flows through it. Think of it as a 10 amp fuse in a circuit that only needs a 3 amp fuse. Either fuse will work as far as maintaining the proper voltage/current. But in this case, you aren't worried about protection from over current.

XxWhiteNeonxX · Post by **XxWhiteNeonxX** » Mon Oct 25, 2010 2:53 pm

occasional demons wrote:The wattage is only what the resistor will handle. More wattage means it will never burn out in this application. It will have no bearing on how the current flows through it. Think of it as a 10 amp fuse in a circuit that only needs a 3 amp fuse. Either fuse will work as far as maintaining the proper voltage/current. But in this case, you aren't worried about protection from over current.

this makes sense! thanks man

XxWhiteNeonxX · Post by **XxWhiteNeonxX** » Mon Oct 25, 2010 4:11 pm

i went to another radioshack and found 1 ohm 10watt resistors. will they work? i know you said wattage really didnt matter but thats a huge difference in wattage

Jenni · Post by **Jenni** » Tue Oct 26, 2010 11:25 am

2 ohm!! couldn't be so hard to find!

r/tguy02 · Post by **r/tguy02** » Tue Oct 26, 2010 11:39 am

apparently he found something that worked if you look at his project log.

XxWhiteNeonxX · Post by **XxWhiteNeonxX** » Tue Oct 26, 2010 12:15 pm

Jenni wrote:2 ohm!! couldn't be so hard to find!

appearently it was. i couldnt find them anywhere.

r/tguy02 wrote:apparently he found something that worked if you look at his project log.

i used. two 10 watt 1ohm resistors in a series. so far no code!

sidepipe87 · Post by **sidepipe87** » Tue Oct 26, 2010 2:48 pm

Hell, if you're gonna run an airbag delete you may as well yank the rear seat and install the rollbar because even though the CEL won't be on, a discerning eye from a mechanic will notice it at inspection time and fail you. Not saying you actually HAVE a discerning mechanic. Also it's not "technically" illegal to remove the airbag as the laws have never been updated.

XxWhiteNeonxX · Post by **XxWhiteNeonxX** » Tue Oct 26, 2010 2:54 pm

sidepipe87 wrote:Hell, if you're gonna run an airbag delete you may as well yank the rear seat and install the rollbar because even though the CEL won't be on, a discerning eye from a mechanic will notice it at inspection time and fail you. Not saying you actually HAVE a discerning mechanic. Also it's not "technically" illegal to remove the airbag as the laws have never been updated.

the way the roll bar is set up, the 2 bars going to the trunk will be removable. ( bolted in.) and then for inspection ill just pop them out and throw the rear seat back in