Wheel lugs on snowflakes

Trappy · Post by **Trappy** » Sat Nov 06, 2010 3:24 pm

Hey all!
I bought some snowflakes, the 00-02 kind, and bought some lugs from O'Reilly auto parts to use. After hearing some horror stories about lugs that are the wrong size, I was wondering if these work. I know that the lug wrench that came with my car is too small for these, so I have to use another wrench to get them off. Do you think this is okay?
Thanks for the help!

r/tguy02 · Post by **r/tguy02** » Sat Nov 06, 2010 3:31 pm

easy way to find out is to put them on and see if they torque down, do these lugs bottom out or do they have a hole the whole way through?

Trappy · Post by **Trappy** » Sat Nov 06, 2010 3:47 pm

Yeah, they don't go all the way through, but they torque down all the way, and the people at the tire station didn't say anything when they put them on...

r/tguy02 · Post by **r/tguy02** » Sat Nov 06, 2010 3:51 pm

well if they torque down and didnt feel like they were cross threading when you put them on, i'd say they're ok

Jenni · Post by **Jenni** » Sat Nov 06, 2010 3:53 pm

problem is:
you need exactly the right lug nuts.
right thread, right angle and such.
does anybody know the exact specs for stock SRT wheels?

look here:

http://www.bargaincarrims.com/acorn-lug-nuts.php

r/tguy02 · Post by **r/tguy02** » Sat Nov 06, 2010 3:58 pm

Jenni wrote:does anybody know the exact specs for stock SRT wheels?

these are snowflakes (15"rims) not the srt 17" rims.

personally i've used the same tuner lugs on all my rims, steelies, american racing (aftermarket), and my silverstones. Never had balance, wheel shake, or an usue with lugs backing out. I think the main thing to look at is that they dont pull through the hole in the rim.

Mopar_Korean · Post by **Mopar_Korean** » Sun Nov 07, 2010 8:31 pm

Our neons including SRT-4s use a cone seat (also know as acorn seat) with a 60 degree taper (60* is the most standard taper. Some dulley trucks use a 45* taper as do Chargers, Magnums, 300C, and other LX platform cars). Our thread pitch is 12x1.5

Outside of those requirements, the style of lug nut is up to you and your needs. You can use a bulged acorn, open end, or spline drive lug nut.

With some aftermarket wheels the lug holes are not large enough to fit a 19mm socket in so you will have to use a spline drive lug.

Trappy · Post by **Trappy** » Sun Nov 07, 2010 11:54 pm

Ah, I see. I'll have to check the package out next time I go to the auto parts store...

Post by **occasional demons** » Tue Nov 09, 2010 11:33 pm

The hex size on your lugs may be 13/16" if the oem lug wrench doesn't fit.

I recommend getting a 4 way wrench for your trunk. It should fit w/e the size is, and will give you some leverage.

I would hate to break loose lugs a tire shop installed with the scissors jack wrench. Not that it will work now anyways, but in general.

SlvrACR · Post by **SlvrACR** » Tue Nov 09, 2010 11:39 pm

Hey now. Some of us "tire shops" use factory torque specs.

Post by **occasional demons** » Tue Nov 09, 2010 11:49 pm

Even at 100, or 110 ft lbs I can't recall exactly the spec, I wouldn't want to bust my hump breaking them loose with the provided wrench.

Honestly, I torque mine to 85 ft lbs max, and have never in the 29 years I have been driving have had one loosen. But then I also lube the threads, so it prolly equals more than 85. Just keep the lube off the seat, and you'll be fine.

Mopar_Korean · Post by **Mopar_Korean** » Wed Nov 10, 2010 12:36 am

100ftlb is busting your hump?

Today I did 4 F350 superdutys in a row at work. Each hub has 8 lug nuts. Each lug required 150ftlbs of torque. Thats 128 lug nuts to torque. And that after dismounting and mounting 16 285/70/17 10 ply tires and man handling each 100-120lb tire and wheel assembly.

Anyways that just me bitching a bit.

There are a lot of people that have harder jobs or no jobs at all so I have no room to bitch.

Anyways I really dont suggest putting antiseize or any lube on your studs. On most wheels you can run a closed end lugnut which keeps the rust and dirt out of the threads. And as long as you keep up on rotations the lugs shouldn't be able to seize up to such an extent that its THAT difficult to remove. Also torquing the lugs at the correct ftlb is a great help in being able to get it off again. Shops that just hammer the lugs on with the impact gun with no torque stick are just asking to snap studs, strip nuts, or stretch studs.

If all else fails, keep a breaker bar in the trunk. They are $10 at harbor freight and are WAY better then any fourway.