noise coming form rear.. came up with my" theory"
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skaterking411
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noise coming form rear.. came up with my" theory"
i recently got megan coilovers and installed them to replace my what i thought were blown struts. i took the car to get 4 wheel aligned and now theres like a clanking noise coming from the bank. im like 99% positive it didnt make the noise before i got allignment. any suggestions?
Last edited by skaterking411 on Sat Nov 13, 2010 8:20 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Is it when you are going over bumps or turning or what? It could be that your rubbing but highly doubtful. Your strut could be "going" but doubtful if they are fairly new. It also now could be that you had a wheel bearing that was weak and now that it's aligned properly it's making the noise casue I had one make that "clanking" noise just before it let go....have you been getting a "droning/loud humming" sound before the alignment?
I'm not 100% sure on these possibilities cause It could be so many things and I'd personally have to hear it to know..
Check that your lugnuts are tight too...just for the hell of it..hear someone tell me that they had a sound like that and lugs were loose and then it went away when they tightened them.
I'm not 100% sure on these possibilities cause It could be so many things and I'd personally have to hear it to know..
Check that your lugnuts are tight too...just for the hell of it..hear someone tell me that they had a sound like that and lugs were loose and then it went away when they tightened them.
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do you have a rear sway bar? if so the endlinks may be loose or worn.
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Have some one push the rear bumper up and down, and follow the sound. Its worked for me before lol.
Actually, check the hex nuts at the top of the Megans under the adjustment knob. If they are loose, it will make a clanking/knocking sound.
Actually, check the hex nuts at the top of the Megans under the adjustment knob. If they are loose, it will make a clanking/knocking sound.
Last edited by ZeroChad on Thu Nov 11, 2010 8:36 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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skaterking411
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Only other thing I could think of is what Chad said. If those 3 bolts are loose it will clunk a lot... we left one of dan's loose and as soon as we took it for a ride we pulled over because there was a clunk. We tightened them up and it went away.
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skaterking411
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Yes... check the lug nuts. A loose wheel will certainly make noise. Ask me how I know...
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skaterking411
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ZeroChad
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I actually meant the single nut in the center of the pillow block. underneath the adjustment knob.sidepipe87 wrote:Only other thing I could think of is what Chad said. If those 3 bolts are loose it will clunk a lot... we left one of dan's loose and as soon as we took it for a ride we pulled over because there was a clunk. We tightened them up and it went away.
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skaterking411
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Yeah I figured out what you meant after I posted and re-read.ZeroChad wrote:I actually meant the single nut in the center of the pillow block. underneath the adjustment knob.sidepipe87 wrote:Only other thing I could think of is what Chad said. If those 3 bolts are loose it will clunk a lot... we left one of dan's loose and as soon as we took it for a ride we pulled over because there was a clunk. We tightened them up and it went away.
Shouldn't really make any noise, but also check that the locking ring on the coil didn't come loose
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skaterking411
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skaterking411 wrote: i had my mom jump up and down while standing in the trunk like someone suggested and i could not hear anything.
Pics, or it didn't happen!
Meh, take the spare out. See what happens. Or just check if it isn't tightened down.
What we need is a lift with 4 sets of driven rollers to put the car on, and the rollers can shake or move to simulate road conditions. That way you can stand beside/under the car to see WTF is making the noise. You just need to watch how close of a look you take is all.
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skaterking411
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skaterking411
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Ok just did some" critical thinking" haha I was checking out the car and the rite coilover is set lower then the other. Quite lower actually. And if its not sitting on perfectly flat ground I can reach in through the rim and move the spring up and down with about an inch of play. So. I think when I hit a bump they spring gets loose then hit. Sound plausible? That's the only thing I can think of.. also I noticed the threaded"shaft", that the coil adjusts up and down on, screws down into the bottom piece. Could it be screwed to far down there or the other side not enough? Input would be much appreciated. Thanks guys in advance.

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Dude... If that's the case, you adjusted your coilovers the WRONG way. With the Megans, like you are noticing now... you should lower the car by spinning the threaded body down into the lower clevis mount. I'm assuming you did it up above which has now messed up the preload on the spring. That's why the spring is clunking around
I'd fix this asap and set all coils (fronts/rears) to the same height. Measure with a ruler.
This is also probably why you said the ride felt so good. You in essence have the springs softened.
I'd fix this asap and set all coils (fronts/rears) to the same height. Measure with a ruler.
This is also probably why you said the ride felt so good. You in essence have the springs softened.
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Edit: Ryan said it much better. 
Last edited by occasional demons on Sat Nov 13, 2010 8:32 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Bill
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Probably shouldn't listen to anything your penis says, that guy's a dick.
Too much time spent here is a sign of a bad case of Ownaneonvirus.Patience, of course, is a very powerful weapon, but sometimes I start to regret that it is not a firearm.
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skaterking411
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Idk what you're saying but let's say however much you turned the lower lock nut (below the spring) turn it BACK that much the other way... this will raise your car back up I suppose. Now to lower it properly, loosen the bottom lock nut (on the bottom clevis. It's the lowest lock ring on the strut) and put the spanner wrench on the TOP lock ring under the spring and crank left (I believe) to lower the threaded body down into the lower clevis. I have no idea how you can measure to get the preload where you want it now. But once they're both set the same you can measure from a fixed point on both sides to make sure you are level.
I know that was a lot to take in, but it's pretty simple. Good luck figuring it out
I know that was a lot to take in, but it's pretty simple. Good luck figuring it out
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skaterking411
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I mean if you adjusted them all the same way I'd assume they'd all be similar... That one might just be more loose than the others.
this may help you out
this may help you out
OB wrote: Also, resetting the preload on the spring perch is a great idea, since BC's are a bit different than typical coilovers in that their primary adjustment is the strut body itself, not the spring preload. I would recommend keeping about 5-10mm preload into the spring at the most, after they break in. Then adjust the body to get the height where you want it. Once all is said and done, make sure all your critical alignment components are good (tie rod ends, wheel bearings, bushings) then have it aligned, knowing it is good and won't need to be touched.
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skaterking411
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I guess he means from the factory setting. aka compress the spring 5 to 10mm to gain more preload on the spring. OB would be the guy to ask. I don't know in depth physics of suspension. I'm glad the noise is gone now!
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skaterking411
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