Error Codes 0340 and 0335

thetallstewy · Post by **thetallstewy** » Sat Nov 27, 2010 7:12 pm

Hey Guys, just joined the forums and hoping that I will be able to fix my car without going to the dealer.

So I went to start up my car and it wouldn't crank over and when it did, it gave me error codes P0340 and P0335. It ran fine back to my apartment 7 miles away. Since then, I have changed the camshaft position sensor.

I am going to change out crankshaft position sensor and my haynes manual has me going from the bottom. Would it be possible to go from the top? (because I told my apartment manager that I would not be dealing with oil / fluids)

Or should I just start up my car and see if everything runs fine?

Thanks in advance

-Chris[/u]

Post by **occasional demons** » Sat Nov 27, 2010 7:30 pm

Welcome!

What year? How many miles?

The Cam sensor might give a false crank sensor code, but did you make sure the cam is turning when the crank is turning?

Not that it would matter too much, if the timing belt failed, the damage is done. You could attempt to start it if the cam sensor is in place. Just don't keep grinding it if it doesn't start within a few seconds.

If your car is '00 to '02 the crank sensor is above the oil filter. '03 to '05 it is near the starter. Either one shouldn't cause any oil spillage. Other than what may be on the sensor. Your cam sensor prolly made a bigger mess.

Putting your year, transaxle type and trim level in your sig. generally helps out.

thetallstewy · Post by **thetallstewy** » Sat Nov 27, 2010 7:39 pm

2003 with about 80k miles.

Not really a mechanical guy so how can I tell the cam is turning when crank is turning?

Also, before changing out the cam sensor, it did start up no problem.

And what is transaxle type and trim level?

I have an R/T if that helps at all.

Post by **occasional demons** » Sat Nov 27, 2010 7:50 pm

80k, the belt should be good for another 25k

Transaxle = transmission for front drive. Yours is an MTX Autos = ATX

Trim level is R/T

Either the crank sensor is bad, or there is a short in the wiring, if it ran before the CPS replacement. It will run with it unplugged (cam PS) just not well. You could try unplugging it and see what happens. If it runs unplugged, there may be a problem with the new one or the circuit.

You didn't unplug the coil for any reason? The coil and CPS plugs will swap.

As far as telling if the cam is turning, you need a helper to turn the engine over. There should be a small round access plug in the timing cover. Remove that, and see if the cam gear is turning. Use a flash light if needed. Don't stick your finger in there.

thetallstewy · Post by **thetallstewy** » Sat Nov 27, 2010 8:30 pm

So how do I ultimately tell if the problem is with the crank sensor/cam sensor or circuit?

And even though I changed out the cam sensor, shouldn't it be good? No?

And I didn't unplug the coil because I don't know even know what that is. heh.

Post by **occasional demons** » Sat Nov 27, 2010 8:47 pm

If you have a multi meter, check for 5 volts on the orange wire, and continuity to ground on the black/light blue wire. If there isn't a ground, or no voltage, it will not matter if the sensors are good or bad.

If you have no way to check them or know how to use a meter, it may be cheaper to go to the dealer to diagnose it. Prolly not cheaper for the parts, labor tho.

thetallstewy · Post by **thetallstewy** » Sat Nov 27, 2010 8:59 pm

I do have a multi meter and I will have to try tomorrow when it is light out. I do not feel 100% comfortable checking so we shall see.

Is it also an option to just start/drive the car with the cam sensor plugged in, no new crank sensor and have it back to normal?

Post by **occasional demons** » Sat Nov 27, 2010 9:07 pm

thetallstewy wrote:I do have a multi meter and I will have to try tomorrow when it is light out. I do not feel 100% comfortable checking so we shall see.

You can check for volts/ground by unplugging the connectors, and contacting the pin sockets. The ign. will need to be on, not running to get a voltage reading tho. You may get an additional code for that tho.

thetallstewy wrote:Is it also an option to just start/drive the car with the cam sensor plugged in, no new crank sensor and have it back to normal?

Only if it starts.

If it runs/drives fine, you can clear the codes by shutting off the car, rolling down the window and disconnecting the battery. Then reach in and turn on the headlight switch, turn it off and reconnect the battery.

thetallstewy · Post by **thetallstewy** » Sun Nov 28, 2010 12:09 pm

So step 1 this morning was try starting it up. It sounded like crap...

I was low on oil, so I added a qt and also changed out spark plugs/wires (had to do it anyways). It stuttered a little bit starting up after that but then leveled out. I let it idle for a min and even revved it a little. Everything seems to back to normal.

Post by **occasional demons** » Sun Nov 28, 2010 5:01 pm

Just clear the codes, and go from there. If they don't come back, you might be good to go.

thetallstewy · Post by **thetallstewy** » Sun Nov 28, 2010 5:13 pm

Cool. Thanks for everything, out of the 3 neon forums I've joined, this one is clearly the best.

Post by **occasional demons** » Sun Nov 28, 2010 5:33 pm

Thanks!